Beer Baron

yeah I know, they must be some nicely done chinese stuff out there, but my GTR is a chinese part free zone and happier for it. actually that's not true. I do have 1 chinese part on there. a just jap "D1 spec" quick release hub and it works very well, and I have one on the silvia too. it makes getting out of the race seat and past the cage a lot easier and it's lasted a few years now. well i've never tried a cooling pro radiator so I can't rate that paricular product. but I would say 9 out of 10 of the other chinese parts i've seen or tried myself left me less than impressed. i once had a set of chinese castor rods, they were cheap but didn't last so I ended up buying cusco ones, had a set of chinese upper control arms. they were cheap, but aqain didn't last so had to change those too. my experience has been the level of fit and finish is not up to the japanse parts level nor is the durability and quite often the parts are not 100% suited to their application (ie oil cooler kits with lines that are miles too long etc). in the end I just think the price premium you pay for japanese quality parts over the cheap stuff is worth it. you pay more, but I thnk you get better 'value'.

there wont be any nismo AFM equivalent. nismo use the genuine nissan VG30 sensor, then put it into a new RB26 AFM housing, so it's basically custom made.

I will tell you how to keep it alive. listen to me. - fit a good oil cooler (greddy is a good option, get the brake duct mounted kit, not the radiator mounted one) - keep the revs under 7,500 max, 7,200 is even better and wont cost you much time at your power level (this is really important, revs kills Old RB26s and there is no need to be doing 8,000rpm) - fit a power FC and get it tuned properly with the AFR on the conservative side (12:1 or so), with a little extra fuel in around the rev limiter and above 7,000 just for a little extra safety up top. - keep a good eye on the knock readings - get an EBC to give good, reliable, stable boost control, and keep it fairly conservative, 1 bar/15psi is ok for your stock engine and N1 turbos. Trust Profec B are good and cheap, and easy to fit and tune. - get your injectors cleaned and tested and make sure your fuel pump is ok, 32 GTR pumps do often fail when old, if you can just replace it with a nsimo pump before your tune, good piece of mind - Use good oil and change it a lot. Motul Chrono 300V is the way to go here. full synthetic ester. expensive but cheaper than rebuilding your engine - buy a proper aftermarket oil pressure gauge with adjustable warning and if possible recording feature (so you can do a few laps with it recording, go to the pits and play back to see if pressure is dropping in corners - oil surge. preferably get an oil temp gauge too. high oil temps is also not a friend of your GTR engines long life. defi gauges are great for this and easy and neat to install and they make it easy to add more gauges in the future if needed. - fit a good catch tank, vented to atmosphere, 3l in size is a good idea - fit some mines cam cover baffles (easy to fit and cheap) - i'm not a big fan of overfilling your engine with oil, i can make things worse, you don't want the crank basically submerged in oil. Overfill a little maybe a few hundred ml but 1 litre is too much in my eyes and not necessary put some redline lightweight shockproof in the gearbox, and the appropriate redline oil in the diffs. yeah it's a little expensive but it won't need to be changed again for a long time. do the attessa fluid bleed too and replace the attesa fluid with the stuff from nissan. yes, enlarging oil returns, fitting external oil drain, fitting oil feed restrictor, fitting crank collar, fitting enlarged and baffled sump, getting megabuck oil pump and super-duper balancer are all top ideas. but none can be done with the engine in the car, and most require the head off too (which means new head gasket at a few hundred). so in my eyes none are worth doing on a stock engine. your stock second hand engine is worth about $4K complete. those mods alone would cost way more than that. so I would only be doing all that stuff on a built motor (and I did on my built motor). with the above mods my engine ran (and still does) happily for around 3 years with plenty of track days and running 276rwkw without missing a beat. these things are good sense, and more preventative maintenance. plus all this stuff wont break the bank, and can be done piece by pice. also, all of these bits will be usefull no matter what you ultimately do with the car, and none will be really made obsolete even if you do more upgrades and big engine etc down the track.

japanese parts good. chinese copy parts bad. this is tattooed to the back of my right hand, so that as I'm about to click "order" with my mouse I ensure i'm making the right choice. the problem is chinese bits may be a little cheaper but in the end you spend more time fitting, more time modifying, often need to buy extra bits to fit, and in the end you end up with an inferior quality of part and an inferior installation that if you had just bought the japanese part in the first place. so in my eyes there is no saving at all. and if you factor in your stress and time etc i recckon the cheap parts "cost" you more...

yes. well 32 and 33 are definitely the same. 34 may have a little difference (air temp sensor is on the plenum in 32/33, 34 has it cooler moutned, not sure if there is provision for it on the 34 plenum).

there is no real difference. boost is a measure of restriction in the intake. it's a pressure reading, not a flow reading. so it's possible both cars are injesting the same amount of air (almost certainly if they are identical and making the same power). so perhaps changing cam timing has reduced a restriction which allows the car to flow the same amount of air but at a lower pressure. anyway, it's kind of pointless comparison. I'd run the 16psi AND the cam adjustment and make 220kw instead.

Carillo

bkes, carts, cars all the same. you've still got it backwards though. for car sized tracks you will need a smaller rear sprocket. not a bigger one. think about this. if you have a small gear driving large one the small one must rotate many times for the large one to complete 1 revolution, it's easily worked out and that is the final drive ratio. so in a GTR for instance the diff input will spin 4.1 imes just for the wheels to turn once. yes you wont change the engine drive, there is not normaly any need to. in karting you can get a wide enough range of ratios just by changing rear srpokets. I think you need to go back to school big buddy!!

if he's buying an old RX7 my advice would be pay as little as possible and save for a rebuild! mine is a 2001 RZ and even it was due for a new engine after a wee 30,000kms! rotor motors are not built to last.

that is one of the big benefits of a good mech LSD. it behaves the same way under the same circumstances, so you know what's coming! stock LSDs are rubbish. people say 'well i shimmed it up and it's great' but I can tell you now no one who has drive with a proper LSD would ever say that. even the shimmed up viscous LSDs are still complete pants! especially with decent power LSD is a must.

yes I am sure!! but try it if you don't believe me!

some people tell me you blow a lot of hot air... hehe.

I was thinking the same thing. a decent stainless pot is decent money. but perhaps there are cheap ones available at kmart or the like?

the understeer thing is normal too. especially when you are exiting slow corners and the engine is not in it's power band,. not enough power to get the rear sliding, but enough to lock the diff so of course it tried to push you wide. it happens a lot with the 2 way too. you will get used to it though as adjust as needed.

don't stress too much. most mech LSDs are a bit like that. my nismo 2 way is like that in the S13. its worse if you have good tyres (as they don't break traction as easily). in tight turns the whole rear end clunks and kind of shimmys a bit and yes it sounds and feels like the whole cradle is about to break off! but it's quite normal.

this will be a top day. everyone should get out there. cheap way to get your car on a dyno and see how it's going. I will try and make it out too. the only question is do I bring the 34 (stock)? the S13 runs about 230odd rwkw on UAS dyno so maybe I should bring that? or I'm kind of curious to see what my FD RX7 is making now that the new pre-stage ported 13B is run in. hmmm tough choice. I'm guessing the stock 34 GTR makes about 190rwkw and the 7 maybe 200rwkw or so. well if I don't make it out, have a great day without me guys.

still need to sell me truck. $20K flat and I'll even throw in a trolley jack gratis! can't beat that.

this is depressing! I'll soon be living in the car if I can't sell it...

yep, ARC very nice. the cusco ones are great too, light and fit nicely but not adjustable. and as for bolt on parts not being completely bolt on, that may be true for the aussie and chinese parts but having spent 10s and 10s of thousands over the years on japanese parts I would say 99% of the bolt on parts do actually bolt straight on. if you want quality you just have to be prepared to pay the right money for it. you buy cheap chinese parts, don't expect expensive part quality...

who are these few people with transmission problems and chassis problems? seriously, I honestly am curious to know. as for nissan should have fixed the transmission problem? I still don't know what problem you're talking about? I haven't found any. there aren't any documented problems with it. actually in the first 100 or so cars a few people complained that it shifted to quickly at low speed, so they slightly changed the software. but it was literally a handful of cars who got the update. but it wasn't any fault with the transmission. granted there is a lot of hype, and a lot of bullshit too, but you can't really blame the car for that.

i reckon that's pretty fair. F1 GA is dobule that and literally 10 times that if you want a stand ticket. given the level of event i tink the price is pretty appropriate.

way too much time spent in the paddock at historic meets running the alfa it looked very familiar!

big sprocket = small top speed. small sprocket = big top speed. hence for a car sized track you'll be wanting a smaller sprocket not the biggest one you can find...

looking good mate, not long to go now.

if they are in good condition (and it's impossible to tell, so just a gamble really) then they are good for around 260rwkw @ 1 bar. much more than that and they are spinning pretty fast and getting pretty hot for 20yo turbos. and at this age they could fail at any time. conversely they may live happily for years. my advice, look for a GTR that has a nice set of small, direct replacement turbos already fitted. Like HKS GT-SS, or Nissan R34 N1s or the generic garret equivalents.