Beer Baron

yeah the nismo ohlins I have are good too. probably better even (more adustment and remote canisters), but about 10 times harder to set-up right. the teins probably work a bit better out of the box and are definitely easier to tune, but I guess ultimately if I stick with it I'll get a better result out of what I have, it's just a shitload harder to get there. and I'm lazy. I would have kept them but I just got stuck at the time with more parts than money! at least they went to a good home and I'm sure tacker is making the most of them oh, and the nismo ohlins look hardcore from behind when you can see the canisters poking out... so there tacker.. hehe.

when setting high boost I always ask myself. WWJD?

yeah nissan will be fine for that. a lot of tuners I know these days prefer to steer away from head studs in 26's unless you really need them, and it's a similar story with cam cap studs. only worth doing if you really need to. i used brand new nissan bolts on mine, but as long as yours are good just use em again.

lol, me too! if I wasn't broke at the time I wouldn't have sold mine. should have kept them in the arsenal as they are bloody hard to find now, and in my cupboard I had used rears and brand new fronts. d'oh!

umm, there is nothing suspect going on I swear. I like chicks... whatever fatz told you about me is bullshit.

good nissan ones are ok. plus the tomei/jun/trust etc are all stud kits.

still need to sell my baby. Now looknig for something around the $52,000 mark and I'm in a soft spot right now so would probably throw in the brand new headlights if you're nice to me! (currently about $2900 a pair from japan). The car is now just locked up in the garage under cover and only getting drive once a fortnight or so. It really is such a neat car and it's not often you can find a 34 with some history and books and in this condition for anywhere near this money. and with the AUD only buying 60yen (compared to the 98yen/dollar when I bought this) you could not import one for under $70K. This car would make a great daily or as a base for you to turn into something wild.

just remove the wastegate and let jeebus sort out what max boost will be....

yeah it's a good luck thing people buy from temples or shrines. they have all different types. general good luck, travel safety, good driving, family safety, and on and on. people put them in cars, or keep in their pocket, or in their bag etc.

lol. that is a bit over the top. for starters you need a beast that can take a goose neck, so basically an F150, F250 etc. something like this probably more up our alley. and looks quite nice. http://www.featherlitetrailers.com.au/trailer.aspx?ID=24

dropped the price to $20,000 flat. usually at this price point all you could get would be a shagged out truck with 300,000kms+. this one is immaculate and good value at $20K. I just need the $$.

i would go the N1 block, with the S2 2.8 kit. get the head ported while it's out and get some cams in there too. HKS 2530s are a really good match on a HKS 2.8. they are good on the 2.6 but great on the 2.8. it will give you the 600odd PS you want easily but without being a 'lazy' set-up. add a decent oil pump and enlarged sump too. you will love it. I've been in a couple HKS 2.8s in japan and they are a really good motor when done properly.

yes there is something wrong with the graph. I can't see it...

and tacker, I did put the pepper grinder in there I swear! lol. but either my old man saw it before he posted them for me and pulled it out thinking WTF? or the post office chucked it out thinking it would be a customs problem. bastards!! next time you're in sydney come over and you can use it to pepper up a good steak.

i'm not sure if you guys saw mark and russ's new trailer when they were down for superlap but it's the daddy. fully enclosed, has TV and fridge, toolbox, and fully lockable and alarmed! very nice tailgate that doubles as the ramp and it rides very low and has a winch for car and to close the tailgate. the only downside I can see is that it's probably worth double my car! It's pretty cool though, like a poor mans V8SC Pantech... Russ, pics mate! it's my dream trailer! lol.

he's using my old Tein circuit master type RA's. they are pretty good. mono tube, all alloy, big piston race biased damper. hard to find these days though. but very good. easy to set-up too.

I know you're attached to it. but trust me. for the same or possibly less than repairing that one you'll get a nice new one that plays MP3 too. this is your friend: http://www.jbhifi.com.au/car-sound/mp3-cd-tuners/

good man. good to see she's getting treated to the good gear. give me a bell next time you're in the city and you can pop in for a beer. I'd love to see what it looks like now.

personally I would think hard about replacing it. a basic sony/pioneer/whatever these days can be had for about $100, will plug straight in, and will play MP3s off CD too. think of all the time and fuel spent runing around to get that one fixed, plus the repair bill. then think about $100 straight up, brand new head unit. I reckon it's the smart way to go.

lol, maybe cosworth will get a gig...

good stuff mate. glad to hear the teins are doing the job. they are good gear on a quick track GTR. often over looked by people who have had bad experiences with the entry level teins (which can be pretty crap). but as I always say, teins are just bilsteins without the big BILL. lol. weird one on the valve. I was half way through your post and went "yep broken collet!" but seems that was not the case. hard to say then what it was, but obviously some event happend where piston and valve head wanted to be in the same place at the same time. I would go tomei type A's as a minium. they are cheap, but certainly not the best out there. the type C tomeis are the pick of their lot (obviously I guess) as the use dual springs. but there must be cheaper options for dual springs out there.

mate, sorry to hear your car got stolen. but it's common sense to always get a photo copy of or just hold onto the guys licence before you go anywhere. do not get out of the car at any time when the keys are in the ignition. so if you are going to let him drive, hop out taking the keys with you, then hop back in the passenger side and give him the keys. don't get out again to swap back until you have the keys again. always have another friend with you when you meet the guy. and just use some character judgement. I know you weren't expecting it but there were plenty of set-up clues. meet up where he didn't have a car, private number, bumbag and gold chain, no licence shown... this guy is screaming "i'm going to steal your car".

when you reverse tyrone things come from behind... sorry couldn't help it. anyway I think you will be best off not claiming anthing under about $5,000. so if the damage bill to both cars is > or = $5,000 then make the claim. otherwise just pay to fix it.

usually dyno dynamics dynos measure 'torque' in N. netwons. not Nm, newton metres which is what car manufacteres give. it's a differet measure and there is no 100% accurate simple conversion. the number only means something when compared to other cars measured in the same way. people often mistakenly think they can compare the dyno reading with other qutotes torue figures. sadly that's not the case...

it spells it out for you in the manual what each setting does and the order in which to set them up. it even tells you how to trouble shoot. give the manual a good read through, then take it with you in the car if it's not sinking in yet. there is not much point using other peoples settings. every car is different.