Beer Baron

A) shouldn't really have any squeaks. could be easy to find, could be hard. worth looking though. could just be some loose stuff in the cabin. B) don't know anyone really great sorry. C) yes it should. it was most likely taken off to jump start the car. or taken off when cleaned at the docks. check your boot or glovebox for it. the cleaning guys at AAT are generally pretty lazy. they will take bits apart but not put them back together. D) shouldn't really have dash rattles at 16,000kms.... my current 34 with 80,000 has none. my last R32 GTR had none either and it was 19 years old with 100,000kms! E) not sure what to use. but if it's really bad, and it's the standard gear knob you can buy a new one. they are not too expensive and it just screws off. F) Marss answered this one. yes they should stay open. I'm surprised they've already gone on a 16,000kms car. G) tbag's answer was only valid for 32 GTR. with 34 GTR they have a getrag box and a dual mass flywheel. if you have an aftermarket clutch chances are you no longer have the DM flywheel. so in neutral with foot OFF the clutch you will get a little "clackety clack" type noise and possibly a fainter grinding type noise. it's due to the combo of the getrag box and no DM flywheel. it's no big deal. just a little annoying. h) idle should not be that high. around 900 is normal. but will idle up around 1200 when cold. do you know what cams are in your R1 engine? i) it can be fixed if you like. look up instrument calibration in the yellow pages to find someone who can do it. awesome car mate. The R1s are a really cool upgrade. Lots of nismo goodies bolted onto it. an R1 modded 34 is right up there with the pick of GTRs to get. now come over to my place and lets play cars!

his car is not a nur doof. it's a v spec II modified by nismo.

agree with troy about webber. I didn't think he squeezed massa. massa was behind him and webber made his one allowed denfensive move across the line to claim the inside. assuming that any sensible driver will now go to the outside as webber is as close to the white lines as can be. instead massa decides he'll go up the insde and of course has no room as webber was there too. massa should have just manned up when webber moved across and gone around the outside. he had so much more grip and power there would have been no trouble passing anyway. webber's thing was slidng around all over the shop, very unlike webber who is usually pretty smooth.

ummm you just posted it yourself... 42. Osman WOE784 Nissan Skyline GTR Straight 6 No Turbo 141.4 kW 189.6 HP

my concerns are you'll need to carefully duct air to them, and not enough gap between rad and intercooler. you are going to get a lot of heat transfer from rad to intercooler which is not good. especially when you are sitting still at the start of a hillclimb for example your intercooelr is going to get heatsoaked very quickly. with it getting up to 80degrees plus BEFORE you even begin pumping any boost through it. it might end up being an interwarmer for the first half of a run! also with so little room between engine and rad you certainly can't fit the standard engine fan and will have trouble fitting any decent sized electric fans either. I really don't think any benefit in piping length is worth the negatives. also you now have some quite tight radius bends in that pipework which wouldn't be so bad in a more traditional layout. I'm all for trying new things and the idea had some legs but in practice I don't think it will prove worthwhile.

waste of time with your small twins. they have internal wastegates. internal wastegate turbos are not designed to have seperate pipes from the wastegate and the turbine outlet. you can tell this as there is just one outlet and one flange for both. on an external wastegate set-up you have a seperate wastegate and it has it's own outlet. most often people will merge the wastegate oulet pipe with the turbine outlet pipe somewhere along the exhaust. some however leave the wastegate pipe to vent to atmosphere (a screamer pipe). it is possible you could get some kind of frankenstein set-up to try and vent your internal wastegates to atmosphere but it won't have good result. you will have a constant exhaust leak and your car will sound like some kind of tractor most of the time. all the exhaust in your engine bay will possible melt stuff and discolour everything. and it wont sound that great either when the wastegates open. seriously, don't bother. you want a screamer then you need a turbo that does not have an integrated wastegate. also, they are highly illegal in every state of australia and if you are caught with one you could find yourself with a serious problem.

great thread mate, and very interesting work. thanks for sharing it. there is one simple little comparison I'd love you to do if you can. next time you fill up on e85 fill the tank full and re-set your trip meter. then when you go back fill it full again, read off how many kms you travelled and you can do a quick ltrs/100km figure. then try the same with PULP (if you ever use it again). XXXkms to a tank is a big vague as you have no real way to tell how much fuel is left in the tank and I don't even know how many ltrs a GTST tank holds! I'd love to know the ltrs/100km figures and it would add one more usefull figure to your so far very thorough investigations. Good luck with the test this arvo.

yeah it's not too bad. you calibrate it each time you start the game. you can chose 2 point calibration or 5 point. I always do the 5 point. i'm playing on a 46" sony XBR lcd and the sensor cord isn;t long enough to span the width of the TV but it's not a problem. I tried the FPS part of the game last night. the controls seem so akward at first but it's actually not too bad once you get into it.

I can assure you makers like ORC and exedey etc will be releasing clutch replacement and upgrade options sooner rather than later. so no, if your clutch wears out you wont have to buy a whole new box. that would be crazy. the odd use of the launch control wont be a problem. but if you want to drive off every set of lights with a 1.2g launch then yeah you can expect something to give eventually. think of how many 35s are our there already. and many of them tuned for more power and many of them driven on the track or raced. Out of all of those cars I only know of this one failure.

yeah I think the 1000ft/lb one is the go. no way you are going to put 2000ft/lb through a GTR driveline. go for the lightest one. and even better it's cheaper! though I guess this sterling advice comes a bit late for you chaps... glad to see you all got there in the end.

currently playing. time crisis 4 PS3. should I be embarresed? but hey it was a gift! and actually quite fun. though I really wish the guns had recoil like the arcade ones used to, or at least rumble/dual shock. that would be nice.

NO. GTR needs a flat bed just like any other 4WD or AWD car. do not tow it with 2 wheels on the ground. it's such a dangerous way to tow any car really. a few months back a towie with a car being towed like that came through a set of lights turning right. car came off the sling, now out of control smashed right into the front of my friend who was sitting at the lights.... imagine if that runaway car was your GTR....

I got mine done in japan so can't help with sydney people, but it's not cheap to get it done nicely as they need to cleanly cut the bottom off your current sump (in the right spot!) then weld the new extension on. I would say at least a couple hundred bux if you take sump and extension to someone who knows what they are doing. it's one of those things that really has to be done right as if it's not done properly the pick-up wont be in the right spot, or it will leak. either way not good. I'm sure CRD have done (or sent off to have done) plenty of them by now.

it;s not a genuine nismo seat. it's a 32 GTR seat that has been retrimmed/embroidered.

love the car. it looks great. very nicely done mate. can I ask which billion PS tank did you buy? I know they don't make a 32 one (as they don't use the fluid level sensor) but which did you choose? 34 GTR? GTT? thanks.

well don't worry too much about the wrong one, but the right one is from proengines. I have seen their adapters and they fit for sure, first time, no problems. http://www.proengines.com.au/ edit: http://www.proengines.com.au/sumpadapter.html and they use internal oil pick-up too. saves some hassle and $.

you can look at that car, but consider that it's nearly 10 years old. so less than 3,000kms a year through all of it's owners? yeah right. spend the money to buy a nice genuine GTR. I can bet you $50 you wont get any auction sheet or any service history with that car. I am biased though as I'm currently selling my 34 GTR. but mine does have history, has 80,000kms (about right for that age GTR) and is absolutely mint. I wouldn't take less than $50K though so it's a fair bit more money, but I'd wager it's a fair bit more car too.... even if they bought that at the peak of the aussie dollar for it to be sold for $40K it would have been a VERY cheap car at auction. very cheap. which spells trouble. so yeah, buy mine instead! lol. any car you look at, look underneath. if you can, get it checked at a workshop, and even better get a compression test. car should have original service books and manul too. and try and drive a couple so you can get a feel for what a good one should drive like. good luck. oh, and with the current weak aussie dollar importing one is out. buy one here. importing one really nice ones are 4mil+ which is $55K just for the car. you are looking 67,000 inc GST and import duty, shipping, compliance rego, etc allow another $8-$10K and you're looking at nearly $80K right now to import a really nice 34 GTR. 2 months ago it was about 30% cheaper!

still for sale. you are looking at a saving of about $10K compared to importing one like this now. awesome truck, so make me an offer.

it will be a sad day for me when skaifey is not racing top level tin tops in aus. I have followed and admired him since i was a kid. I watched him move from nissans, to holden in my teens, through to him pairing with lowndes in the late 90s at HRT and the both of them winning everything in sight. then to his continued success in the early 2000's after lowndes switched to ford. he sure has made a lot of enemies but I've always thought he was a great driver to watch with a great racing 'brain'. he also made some pretty sharp moves off the track too. He really was one of the first true 'professional' race drivers in aus to make a full career out of racing. as 20 years ago lots of the guys did top level tin tops and still had a day job. they couldn't all make a living from racing even if driving top level stuff. most people think he's a wanker but i've met him a couple of times and he seemed pretty nice and down to earth to me, and pretty smart and well spoken. I'll miss you skaifey!

they are not brake ducts. they look like brake ducts but from the factory they go nowhere. in fact from the factory the passenger side one is blocked off with a plastic flap behind it. the brake ducts are the two small ones in the lower lip.

standard master is fine with GTR calipers. and if you are talking 32 GTR calipers then they are the same, just rotor size and calipers 'look' a little different. 296mm front rotor GTR vs 280mm front rotor GTST. 33 GTRs run brembo fronts with 324mm rotors and if going to them it can be worth changing to a 33 GTR master too, but not 100% neccesary as piston sizes are very similar. look at running an adapter bracket with 324mm front rotors and keep your current calipers. good pads and fluid and that's a good start. www.nismo.com.au sell those brackets and rotors.

hey I;ve been trying to tell you guys that cube is the man for some time now! he's the real deal. and isn't impeded by a giant novelty sized ego like hamilton is...

helper spring does nothing except keep the spring captive when the shock is at full extension. it is fully compressed by the cars weight any other time.

the reason they have two maps sensors is they are desinged to work with the standard plenum/6 throttle set-up. so they can take 2 readings from 2 different runners. and average out the two, like they do with the standard Airflow meters. since you now have an aftermarket plenum and single throttle it's a different story. yes you could just use 1 MAP sensor, if you had an ECU that was designed to run one. but since you've bought the PFC that is designed to run with the 2 sensors just run with those two. try it from the vacuum ports at the back but just make sure you get decent readings from there (should do), otherwise just fit them as per normal, in runner 3 and 4.

firstly sticking an oil cooler between the intercooler and radiator is a poor idea. waste of time. to do it properly you need to place it in one of the ducts and let it vent out the back of the guard lining. use some alloy sheet to seal it off so the air flows through the core properly. personaly I say neither intercooler is "best" for circuit use. a nice light, good flowing ARC M079 would be the trick, with the fluted intakes, lightweight 70mm thick core. but since you have a trust one just use that. just be aware that that big thick intercooler is going to kill the air flow to your radiator so you intake temps and boost pressure drop may improve but your water temp will go up a fair bit. so then you need to upgrade the rad too. or you can stick with the stock intercooler and (since it allows more airflow through the core) and the stock radiator and use some smart ducting to improve their efficiencey. and do the duct mounted oil cooler too.