Beer Baron

i like the S14. would be wicked fun. personally probably would want to knock $7K or so off the ask (assuming it can't ever be registered). lots of nice gear on it though.

forget that other 33 GTR troy. this one looks awesome. http://www.my105.com/classified.asp?id=8761 808... wasn't that duncans number one year? still i wouldn't mind the AP brakes. the condition of the body suggests they weren't used hard (enough). d'oh!

fking love it. let's sell up brisby and go halves. lol it's road rego'd too. hehe would be fun popping down to coles in that thing. don't know how you'd go driving home from the pub in it.

one of the most important things to look at when buying a car is the owner. from looking at the mods and the ad I'd guess that car is owned by a fairly young guy with not too much cash and fairly questionable taste. and lives in a lets say 'less desirable' area. I mean he's fitted 19inch cheap chrome wheels to a 32 GTR. that kind of thing only appeals to the younger hektic crew. these are not the kind of guys you want to buy a GTR from. I would be wanting to buy one from a slightly older guy (say 25+) who chose mods in keeping with the spirit of the car (like nice 17 or 18inch forged light weight wheels) and other quality parts. and had the money to be able to have the car really well looked after. that car would not be at the top of my list if looking for a 32 GTR.

yes. of course. by a long way! the factory wheels are only 17X9 +30.

look, it's not going to cause you any real problems at 350kw. but the chances are if you do upgrade it there will be some gains to be had with a better one at your power level. my advice, go straight for a direct fit ARC 70 or 100mm cooler. if you can afford it get the better M109 or M709 models over the M103 or M703 models. the 70mm one is good enough for your power and as a bonus allows plenty of flow through to the radiator, and is actually lighter than a standard cooler which is a big benefit considering how far forward in the car the weight is.

call herman at envy imports. www.envyimports.com.au 9907 4144. see how that goes.

I drive prius's (or is it Priui?) as we have a couple at the office and if I need to head out I take one of those. they are ok. very quiet and about the same as any other pezzy little econo-box. and the gadgety display is fun and trying to keep it to electric power in the city is fun too. but come on, fairly good go? I'm sorry mate but they are as slow as a wet week. our clapped out 15 year old daihatsu applause 1.5l manual goes harder than a brand new prius and believe me that is not very hard. not too sure on this high rev thing either? they sounds like they'll self destruct over about 5,000rpm. my FD RX7, yes high revs goes good. 34 GTR, yes high revs goes good. prius? no. 8,000+ is high revs. 4,500 and ka-blammo is not high revs! if you care about fuel economy sure they are ok at that. but don't have any illusion about them being fun or sporty to drive. they are rubbish to drive and slow. and if I really wanted an eco weener machine I'd got for a grey import honda insight.

nismoid. with your set-up why does the pipe turn 180 degrees, then airflow needs to turn 90 degrees again inside the cooler. you could have just had it go straight into the side of the cooler instead of making it curve back on itself and come into the front of the cooler and then it's hitting the tank at right angles instead of straight in. possibly not the best plan. the pipe run is a good idea though, but the entry to the intercooler is weird. way harder than it had to be... in fact doing it that way would have saved more piping length too and got rid of a few bends. I would just do it like this:

nope. you mean using a consult cable through the diagnostics port right? then no. sadly they are incompatble. if you are looking for a fault the power FC does have a sensor check funtion you can access via the hand controller. othwerise you can just unplug the PFC, plug in a standard ecu and use the consult port to find the fault.

agreed. I love it. true 100% synthetic ester. ie the real deal. I even run it in the lowly silvia. edit: just one point 300V chrono is 10W40. the 15W50 you are talking about must be 300V 'competition' or someting. all the 300Vs are the same quality of oil, just different viscosity.

I'll give you some advice from the benefit of my experience. your problem is most likely the walbro fuel pump. I can't even begin to total up the number of people who have fitted one only to have problems with car running rich, then lean etc. the chances of it being the fuel pump double if you installed it yourself. microtech is NOT the way to go for your skyline. it is far easier, cheaper and better to buy a Power FC and fit that. anyone can tune it. if he can tune microtech he can tune power FC. if not, go somewhere else. and get that walbro pump out of there and fit a direct fit nismo or tomei pump. they will supply plenty of fuel for even 300rwkw and are a direct fit into the take so there is no chance you can balls up the installation. also, why did you install the sard fuel reg? and what have you set it at? this could be contributing to your problem. if you sell the sard reg and the walbro pump that will probably cover the cost of a new nismo pump.

cool pic mate.

yep, that's why I asked. it's quite possible your R1 engine has larger cams. I must say mate it's a very cool 34. I'd almost rather it over a nur anyway. it should certainly have a fair bit more power than standard too. and seriously bring it over one day! lol I want to check it out. and if you would like to know I can probably find out from japan for you exactly what mods have been done to your R1.

does anything have stability with vista? in my experience vista is crap. just bought a new vaio and lasted 1 day on vista. thank god they give you downgrade CDs with it to go back to XP. now doesn't that tell you something.... shame the AUD is so poor now. that rotary performance datalogit at $300USD was a bargain when it was about $320 AUD. now $300 USD = $450 AUD.... D'oh.

lol. that is pretty cool. finally get that decent engine into a decent chassis. I like it. can't wait to see your thing rumbleing along stu. it will definitely rock.

kham mate. dey will b orsum. jus get dem on dere bro. trus me. wen u get 1 on dere it will screamin like a chik on my zub. lols. dere is no problem with dat screamin pipe on ur trubo. jus the guys on here dat don't have dat 1 wish they had it and they get jelus. cops even wont mind it. jus say it came like dat from tha factory. even with da internal gate trubo it still sound like u hav a BIG HKS turbo wit da external gate. dats y i use it on my 1 too. see u out dere cruzn bro.

are you sure it wasn't just the little overflow from being overfilledd? the filler neck has an overflow thing in it and this dumps the fuel out under the car.

contact isaso.com.au they should be able to sell you the correct R33 child restraint brackets. however, these should have been fitted at compliance. so you could always check your compliance plate, then ring that shop and tell them you got defected because they didn't fit child restraints and could they please give you a set. but it may be easier to just get some from isaso.

exactly. look at 32-34 GTR transfer cases. they use a wet clutch pack type system to send drive to the front wheels in the transfer case. that system was designed in the 80s and was pretty much unchanged from 1989-2002 and I have seen plenty of R32 GTRs with over 100,000kms nearly 19 years after they were built still with perfectly functioning transfer cases. and some of them putting out about the same power as an R35 (300awkw). yes I know the transfer case clutches are under much less load than an R35 dual clutch system as it's being used all the time but these cars cop plenty of launches etc too which puts it under big load. my point is they certainly can and will live a long happy life. considering the 35 set-up was desgined 20 years on surely there have been improvements in design and materials so it should be even more durable than the 32-34 transfer cases. apart from all that I know of at least 3 companies looking at the 35 gearboxes and trying to assess what will wear or break in order to develop aftermarket clutches etc for them. and even if the DSG does cost $20,000. it's a pretty fancy piece of kit. and hey a basic hollinger sequential costs you $20,000 for openers and you still need a few bits to make it work, and I know which one gives better performance and the hollinger still needs regular tear downs and rebuilds too.

pretty sure that is what hayashi-san was using on some of the serious GTRs at Grage Saurus last time I was there. so they can't be bad! still.....chotto takai desu ne..

lol, nice trulli kart with 4wheel brakes and 4 stroke sounds like my GTR! wankel kart would be right up my alley. 63hp is pretty out there. I have breifly drive a superkart once but not in real anger and even still it was pretty nuts, takes a bit of getting used to to drive fast. but yeah I just want something not too radical that I can still fit into and compete and hopefully not get too badly spanked by 35kg 12 year olds... at least in the post race punch up I'll be kicking serious ass. I've got nothing against fighting a 12 year old. as long as I don't get hurt doing it...

lol, I like to gather them all around me. 34 GTR, 32 GTR, RX7, Silva, and all the parts, then sit there going Broom! Broom!. it's normal isn't it?

looks sweet tbag. how big are you? i'm a fairly big unit and keeping one eye out for a kart. elec start? clutch? thanks mate.

to remove the pressure remove the fuel pump fuse. then start the car and just let it run. it will run for a sec or two then die. it will have released the pressure but their will still be some fuel in the lines.