Beer Baron

don't think holinger have an H-pattern GTR/skyline box. so yeah sequential is the go. the only reason you wouldn't go sequential is if there was some class rules you needed to meet. cost is around $20K. need a few things: new clutch (to match the bigger input shaft. hollinger can make a box with standard nissan type spline but don't do it, get the better spline and replace clutch to suit it) new front drive shaft new rear shaft not sure which transfer case your 34 has but you need to use a 32/33 transfer case with the hollinger new mount that's about it off the top of my head.

I reckon I'd rather 2 rounds in the TR than half a dozen or so in the HRT but still. it's a big break. 2 years in minardi didn't do webber any harm. and hey, it's easier to drive a slow car to it's potential than a fast one. that's for sure. shouldn't be hard for him to outshine karthekein.

easy on the guy. he is just asking a question. the answer is noises like that are related to the turbo-system and most specifically the blow off valve. without a turbo a blow off valve is useless. so your only option is wait till your off your Ps and then either turbo-charge your current car, or sell and buy a turbo skyline and enjoy not only the noise but the power that comes with it.

thank god someone doesn't subscribe to this synergy is better than v-power is better than vortex etc. I have been running 98RON fuels in all brands since they were released in aus about 12 years ago. yes in the early days some brands seemed to be better than others. in the last 5 years I have used fuel from all 4 major brands (of which the op missed one in the poll) and cannot notice a difference CONSISTENTLY between any brand. and that's in cars from my 200kw bog standard liberty GT, to my fireblade, to my 250kw silvia to my 600hp GTR and everything in between. occasionally you will get a bad batch somewhere and it could be anyway. often just stale fuel, or water contamination but it's just as likely to be any of the brands. seriously there is nothing between them on a regular basis. just buy whichever one you are near. driving past servos just to find your favourite brand is nuts. especially on a standard R33 GTST...

agreed. there is no need to cut any grommet anywhere on the firewall in any model GTR just to get a boost hose through there. I can get plenty of sensor wires, boost hoses etc throuhg the various grommets without cutting anything.

yeah nismoid, the bumps are there for a reason. if you look at where the exhaust studs are there needs to be a corresponding amount of metal around them for strength, that bump is carried into the bottom of the water gallery, to keep the side width the bump is carried over again to the top of the water gallery and then into the exhaust port outlet. you can remove it but you end up with very thin wall between the exhaust port and the water gallery. it's not usually a problem as many people have done it but you end up with very very thin wall thickness there.

lol, well fair enough steve-o and paul, I still say you guys are lazy. shit even F1 teams use gravity to put their fuel in!!! but you guys need pumps? maybe an easy idea would be a simple gerry can stand? hold the can at the correct height, would flow a hell of a lot faster than a pump rig... would be hands free once you lift the can up, and let the good times flow.... still each to their own. i need the exercise I get from occasionally lifting up a 20kg can and holding it for 30 seconds or so.

great reply from caltex. thank god they had the decency to show you some respect and give you a detailed and informed answer and not just assume you're an idiot and could not handle any kind of technical explanation. very encouraging that even though they are not going to provide what you wanted that they bothered to give you a proper explanation of the legislative and market pressures that are driving their decisions and it all sounds pretty reasonable to me. so the question is how long before we see e-flex at shell, BP and mobil???? not long is my guess.

for your thing 4inch is the go. yes turbine outlet is small but you want a nice taper out from the outlet to 4inch pipe. even more important if you are planning to plumb in the wastegate outlet.

kick ass! nice set-up mate and great fab work on all the piping etc. very nice. should make a nice whack of powa!

good luck with the search. hopefully a few guys upgrading to 2011 models will have some neat 09/10 models up for sale. they are a great car. having personally owend 32/33/34 and 35 GTRs I can say they are an amazing car and fantastic to drive. also a great city car and perfectly fine to drive in peak hour etc. but when that road opens up........ EOY or just after should be a good time to buy too.

yeah I believe it's happened before but not with this many cars on the grid.

haha, I like your style. I shall call you ken tyrell. and no I don't believe there is currently a restriction on how many wheels you can run on each axle. an 8 wheel GTR would surely get over the tyre width problems of using commercially available semi slicks. just pair them up light truck style.

yeah it can be a bit hit and miss. my advise with messing with heads is less is more.... especially if you don't really know what you are doing. on a 26 head from my experience. no need to go overboard enlarging inlet or exhaust ports. you want velocity. but some work is good. be careful what you do with the squish pads. altering them drastically changes engine behaviour. there are very good gains to be had in the short turn radius, again provided you know what you are doing. CC'ing the chambers so they are equal is also of benefit as is removing casting marks, dags etc that can cause hot spots. exhaust hump removal is a tricky one. it's there because of the hump created in the water jacket by the exhaust studs. removing too much means a very thin wall left...

there are so many cheap good engine management systems available for all RB engines that there's no way I'd bother with a signal bender/piggyback these days. if buget is an issue there are plenty of second hand gear out there which is fine.

too soon dunc. too soon... lol.

lol, yeah look like benneton had the blown rear diffuser back in ye olde times but I wonder if they had the ECU smarts that could make the engine produce 80% of it's peak exhaust gas even when at part throttle? that's the key as far as I know to making them really useful. I should explain. those pics were robbed from when the car was for sale about a year ago. engine had a recent rebuild by a engineering firm of the name maclaren. not sure of it's affiliation, if any, with Bruce's mob of the same name. probably not related at all. steve-o. these pics were taken in the last year or so but that would be how the cars were (are?) timed. don't forget this thing ran in 1988 but even still timing of cars with transmitters has not really advanced at all in that time. the tech is pretty robust and useful as it is.

the whole thing with running on street legal tyres basically adds another control to things. for example for big GTRs etc if they could run 300+ wide slicks then we'd be seeing well over 1000hp and probably more like 1500hp+ on those cars. but since they must buy semi slicks that limits the size (semis are not available in super wide sizes) and of course limits total traction making too much power useless. yes it does give an advantage to lighter cars that use those tyres better but no one puts a gun to any entrants head and makes them enter. people enter because they want to. because it's fun. it's a great form of racing. and look at the cars it's brought out and look at the effort people are going to. it's all positive in my eyes.

yeah hi-octane. they do good coatings and price is not astronomical from memory. in sydney but still a lot closer than the ol US of A.

it'll most likely be low fluid. top up the fluid (resevoir is in boot on right hand side) and see how that goes.

a 34 clutch with not for a 33 mate or 32 for that matter. R34 GTR has a getrag box R32 and R33 share the same nissan box. getrag box in the 34 GTR has a different input shaft so no, you cannot use a 34 GTR clutch on your 33. just buy one for the 33. there are plenty out there. and 34 clutches aren't any cheaper than 32 or 33 anyway. os Giken clutches are fine. I've personally owned probably half a dozen and driven probably 50 of them. good, reliable clutches.

yeah all the gear ratios 1-5 are the same in R32 and R33 and final drive (in this case the front and rear diff ratios) are the same in R32 and R33 as well (4.111:1). I would just go with the nengun or RHD box. in fact if you order an R32 box chances are it's an R33 S3 box just with 32 bellhousing as they don't make a number if the internal parts for R32 boxes anymore so all are probably built to the later spec.

replace the oil cooler cores. too many fine passages in there and just too big a risk to flush and hope for the best after a catastrophic blow up. remove and flush all the oil system lines and even the cooling system (un-usual for stuff to get into the coolant circuit though). as far as inlet goes I'm sure head has been replaced/rebuilt so just need to remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds and clean them out properly.

standard a R33 GTST makes nearly 250hp so on anything but a bone standard car 2.5inch is a waste of time. 3 inch (76mm) is the smallest exhaust you should be looking at for a 33 GTST. better even to go straight to 80mm which is a touch bigger.

hey mate, 32 GTR is 100% 4.111:1. if you have a 3.4:1 then you need to get rid of it. providing your car really does have a GTR diff then it should be no problem to re-fit the 4.111:1 crown wheel and pinion. if you need help getting one let me know. they are not expensive.