Beer Baron

well it works like this. some places will give you a great trade in value, then reamn you on the price of the car you are buying. other places will give you a nasty trade in price, but may play ball with the car they are selling you. either way you still get screwed and for the dealer their change over remains the same. it's just a different way of spinning it. sell the car, then buy the car you want. much better option.

yeah I found adjusting the length of the traction arm to make the upright more upright helped with traction under hard acceleration.

lol, how did you know what I have!?! it's like you looked into my backpack and stole my studio quality camera and "tri-pod". and yeah, it was a powerfully lame camera. good for a compact but in the grand scheme of things pretty rubbish. especially since the next day I dropped it and permanently fvkced the sensor. seriously though, those pics were like 4 feet off the ground.

btw my advice is forget the idea of 'steel wheel' or 'high flow' turbos. get either the HKS GT-SS kit, or the garret equivelant. as at the end of the day a 15yo turbo with new exhaust wheel is still in many ways a 15yo turbo. and with so much effort (and $$ if you aren't doing it yourself) in removing and replacing GTR turbos it's silly to skimp on the turbos themselves.

standard pump is fine up to about 300rwkw, but after 15 years they can and will die. and if it dies slowly, not all in one go the first thing you'll know about it is your engine dieing... buy the pump, it's cheap insurance. plus the nismo one is easy to DIY install and super reliable. and flows enough to run 700cc injectors.

there is a very simple way to find out what's happening. run it up on the dyno with everything hooked up. then remove the box, intake etc just leaving the two AFMs there. now run it up and see if it's any better. if it is, then get the pods, if it's not stick with the box and nismo intake and keep chasing the problem.

there is a recipe for 250kw with a GTR and this is my way of cooking it: cam gears Power FC good boost controller (less spiking means longer turbo life) free flowing cat back exhaust and High flow cat (and front pipes if you like)' nismo fuel pump lots of tuning work 1.05bar you will now have between 240 and 270kw atw depending on your engine and turbo health. as for stock GTR turbo failure I have run stock GTR turbos for over 3 years at 1.05bar street, circuit and even drag strip with no problems. but would I reccomend it to you?? no I wouldn't there are plenty of cases of premature turbo failure so to be sure change them if you can afford it.

Dave, this thread is from 2003... and nicely dug up to bamboozle us all by moonus. moonus, in future if a thread is nearly 4 years old, just start a new one.

not if they are 17X9 +22 they wont. well maybe with very small tyres. BTW, I have some and might be selling them soon. nice wheel.

more pics of actual item for sale: It's really nice, the bottom is covered in suede! all the bits that come with it: the case (has hard protective layers, it's a semi hard case)

the back seats in 32s do not fold down. to get into the boot from the cabin you have to remove the rear seat, then unbolt the rear firewall, then try and reach in there/crawl in there.

when I had those arms in the GTR (installed the correct way) I could only get arond 2 and a half degrees neg as I had so much castor. with my new noltec arms I can get about 3 and a half.

yes, which is why I said: "the only smart thing to do is check with the RTA" and used words like "my interpretation"... the only "solid info" you can get is what the RTA states in writing. not what anyone posts as their opinion on a forum. which really makes this topic a complete waste of time.

well I think the GTR is the 'best' car, but for what you want, and with your budget I think the 34GTT offers the best value. They are still fun to drive. easy to get 250-300rwkw without it becoming undrivable and much cheaper to look after. Unless you can afford more than $10K a year just in running costs don't get the GTR. S15 is very nice too but more expensive than the 34 and a bit less practical. a well set up GTT is a nice car.

and here's the proof! and yes the pics still aren't any good, but give me a break I was using a 5 year old canon compact camera and it was freezing farkin cold!

me me me! and lol I was thinking the same thing... "BUY a tri-pod!" ok, I'm half telling the truth. the time before last I didn't bring my own tri-pod, but I used my friends

I'm 90% sure the last HKB I bought for my GTST had holes for the prongs and 6 and 12 and at 4 and 10 or whatever the other position is. either way it would fit both early and late 32 GTSTs. I will see if I still have the box somewhere.

to be honest too much caster means you end up sacrificing camber. in the begining I loved caster and yeah it's great but it's not substitue for neg camber. in the GTR with 255 fronts I can't get more than about 8 degrees neg caster as the front of the tyre is just about touching the guard liner. Also it limits how much camber you can run as of course the arms are pulling against each other to some degree. I would say get as much caster as you can until it begins to limit the static camber you have. if you want some track work I reckon you want the camber up around 3+ of neg.

lol, yeah he looks like he's wondering: "will those BMW rims fit on my 1986 holden commodore?"

unfortunately your "opinion" doesn't count as law and isn't a defence when he or anyone else gets reamed. check with the the RTA is the only smart choice but I can tell you with a high degree of certainty that it will NOT be legal.

lol, my stable is ever shrinking! atm I'm just stuck in indecisivness about what direction to take with the grey car.

TT fees are 22AUD and most japanese banks charge 2,500 yen also. so the total TT fees are $50 AUD. so if we are talking 5 or 10 grand or more here those fees don't count for much.

yes and no. if you had transfered it to yen when the AUD was buying 105JPY effectively you would have gained 15% in one day compared to what it is now.

nah it's bad for your money in aus. the AUD has gone down. you would have been better off to send your aus money to japan when the rate was up over 100JPY/1AUD. anyway, hopefully you'll get it. It's a nice car and a bit special being such a late model.

650ps=650hp give or take a couple.