Beer Baron

not if you are exporting your car for sale in aus it's not, as when you take all those aussie dollars back to japan they now equal much less yen than they have over the last 6 months or so. as for start price! ok they are asking 3 mil! that is hardcore considering they didn't even get any bids at 1.8 when it was on yahoo. damn fine car though. I'm guessing you've got them down a lot lower than 3mil?

hi, I'm in sydney and I'd say it doesn't fit 34GTT. It's designed for 32 GTR only

I think it's pretty spot on. I mean the GTR you are looking at is around $20K (well 2 weeks ago would have been equivelant to $16K). It's not such a stretch to see a similar car sell here for $25K. Yeah it was cheap and a very good buy but it's not far out of the ball park.

make no mistake it's a kick arse GTR. and up on the top shelf of cars around, but I would say it would be around $30-$35 max. here. I mean anyone here can buy it for $20K just like you can, then have it on the road for around $30K...

it would have to be one mighty special car to be worth any more than about $30 I would say $35K would be possible but stretching it. $40K minimal chance of realising that. for that money we need to be talking. full 2.8 litre built by someone like mines, or tomei, or top secret all supporting gear and all top shelf (turbo(s), injectors, pump, rail, reg, gauges, intercooler, radiator, oil cooler, cams, headwork, ecu etc etc) top shelf suspension upgraded gear box mint interior BIG brakes no accident history and all original body work low kms (like under 80,000kms) documented service and owner history Then you have basically the holy grail of 32 GTR and could get $30+ and maybe $40K but it's a lot of money for a 32 GTR. There is no massive margin in buying a GTR (any GTR) in japan to sell in aus.

yes but don't forget as part of shipping you have to pay: 10% import duty $1600 10% GST $1760 customs agent fees $125 cleaning (costs $242 in sydney atm) AQIS fee $193 freight $903 port charge $100 ICS fee $20 AQIS attention $25 AQIS service $193 declaration $50 so actually I guess my $3K was a bit conservative. for a 1.4mil car we are looking more like $4,000. $1K for rego is easy. in NSW CTP runs at about $500, blue slip $100, plate issue $100, stamp duty 3% ($480 for a $16K car), rego about $300. so again probably actually a bit conservative. more like $1000-$1500 depending on car value. it would be a mistake to assume I don't know what the costs are! I've paid them all many times over.

a nice 32 here is worth between 20 and 25 for a fairly standard car. for that one in a thousand special one (either very standard, or very nicely modified) we are talking 25-30. a nasty cheap car or desperate seller is between 18-22.

lol, 1.4mil is a fair whack more than 12grand now! It's more like $16,000. plus add $1600 for a buyer to buy and de-reg and send, $3000 for shipping and tax. $2800 for compliance. $1000 for rego + CTP. Car looks nice but you'd still be up around $25K on the road and it's got 145,000kms...

I'm not surprised you can't sell your car. with the attitude you just displayed towards sewid who gave you some helpful, constructive criticism. as for trouble selling skylines? there isn't any at all. In the last couple of years I've sold me 32 GTST in about a month, my 33 GTR in les than a week (and for much more than $30K) and I think my 32 GTR will be sold before I even advertise it for sale. but understand that if you want to sell your car you need to be prepared to actuall sell the thing. I wouldn't expect any less than a dozen pics clearly showing interior, exterior (from at least 5 angles), engine bay, boot area, possibly some under body pic. Also the fact that you couldn't even be bothered with year model and kms is not good. then when you got some decent feedback you got all defensive... get used to looking at your car as I think it'll be in your possession for a while.

ok, I'm back on the hunt. what Greg had for me wasn't quite suitable in the end so I'm still after a set of R32 GTR wheels with roadworthy tyres. happy to give some cash, or a case for your trouble.

stoner is awesome. it's not all the ducati either. no doubt it's a good thing, but still look at capirossi...

yeah HRT were rubbish in the wet. skaife went backwards in a big way. ingall was a bit of a dirty bastard in the last race. everyone gives a little tap now and then but he always seems to have intent to punt people out of his way... I was glad to see skaife get a win on saturday and he did it easily. sunday he would have been wishing he stayed in the trailer. even the 888 cars lost a lot of pace. congrats to holdsworth, he was nailing them in the last race. and I feel a bit sorry for whincup. he was looking good until he collected someone, not his fault either.

b-man, don't over capitalise a shitty car. rather than buying the $500 car and then spending $10K on it and still having a $500 car (albeit a much faster one) I say practice some stunt driving in it, don't spend any more, then when it dies buy something good!

I think you are confusing the O2 sensors with the cat temp sensor. I would say what you say was the cat temp sensor disconnected. it doesn't matter at all. it's purely there to set off the cat temp warning light to tell you the cat is getting hot. the O2 sensors can be seen inside the engine bay from above. one in each dump pipe and it's best to have them connected for fuel economy but it's no big problem if they are disconnected and you have an ecu (like power FC) that you can tune the light load cruise area of the map.

Thanks all you guys With Greg and some help from Steve I'm all sorted.

I want to know how you "try" to fire a gun? It's not neuro surgery you flick the safety and squeeze the trigger...

sounds awesome russ, I'm sure you will have a ball regardless of the result. I think it should suit you and mark pretty well considering you guys are very fast at wakefield. The new changes will make a massive difference too. best of luck!

D-Jetro is short for D-Jetronic it's refers to an ecu that runs with a map sensor as opposed to a MAF sensor. google map sensor, maf sensor, d-jetronic and you will find all the answers.

and here is our problem troy: when you're a teenager watching these guys in their mid 20s race F1, bang hot chicks and cash their multi million dollar cheques we look up to them thinking "that could be me one day". Now they are younger than us we are looking at them thinking "f**k, that should have been me". Though I guess there is still hope for us, after all webber and DC are in the 30s and MS raced well into his. Jackie stuart I don't think even started F1 till he was 30 something.

f**k him, tags shit anyway. sif not bang the rolex or rado chick. assuming there is one. well that's my story and i'm sticking to it.

mine uses a billet alloy mount to clamp to on of the roll cage bars, then the plain ol M8 bolt into the botton, and then a kevlar strap around the camera to hold it down. The strap has a strain rating label attached too (from memory it's 200 pounds or something). it was approved by the scrutineer at a recent cams speed event.

Tomei Manifolds sold pending payment. If the AUD goes down anymore I'm going to pull the pin on the rest of the stuff and keep it as with the way things are going I'll loose waaaay too much $$ on it all.

my current tally is 1 broken, 1 not broken. can add one sold to that. and one stolen. nasty. but un-like some who shall not be named, mine don't stay broken for long...

funnily enough the signature guidelines are listed in the forum guidelines. which can be found at the top of every page.

buy the 600s or even 700s. it's not a waste of money at all, they are all the same price...