NA_R33

stick it in the lathe sp* and machine bits off them...

manual 33 GTR VSpec and manualised auto V8 r33 with a 3000RPM stally, id like to see ne rwd skyline manual get off the line harder... it holds it own on the circuit and makes very respectable times around Queensland Raceway and mrogan park... Im neither Girl nor spastic... And i know which ive my two cars is quicker to drive in any circumstance and it isnt R....

u can modify hydraulic lifters to solids by changing the cores, some people are against it, but i recently asked an engineer that builds alot of race cars about it and he said he does it all the time. If u have access to a good machinest it shouldnt cost u much at all. Our workshop does odds and ends for some of the local auto shops and this comes up quite regularly, as well as lightening valvles, lifters and things.

ill be there with some better brakes, and cheaper but wider rubber... Nankang NS2 265's on the rear. and Still with Yoky's on the front.

40g's firm

hehehe thats not me!!

just a standard turbo one will do the trick mate.

cheers for the pics!! i love how the skidpan pics always make rims look like 20's

when i had my 2.5 i never ussed a timing light, just kept advancing it little by little till it pinged then knocked it back a little bit. be careful though, pinging = bad. The more advanced your timing is the more power ur car will make, just how advanced u can run it will depend on fuel, and ambient temp and stuff, best do it at the hottest time of the year, then u know it will always be right.

Sorry for the confusion. yeah, its the VH45DE, out of a Q45 Infinity, all alloy quadcam V8 with nissans own version of VTec. fuel consumption is bettert then ur average GTR, but still not great, even worse now it has a stall convertor. around 300k's to a tank around town.

well the engine is stock....

mine does it in 4.2, its pretty stock, just extractors and a 3 inch exhaust

haha, theres no push rods in my puppy!! just 4 variable timed overhead cams, works better than VTEC, cause u actually get a considerable power increase when they do their thing, not like a hondas where all that happens is u get a change of exhaust note.

ummm.... well my car cools itself down idleing, it will actually get to the point were the oil is too cold to work efficiently and therefor cause damage, so i dont see how u can say that NA cars heat up at idle, thats what radiator fans are for.... im gonna give up on this thread...

no good to hear dude, best of luck trying to sell it though, u'll need it, mine has been advertised in the tradingpost, wheels and deals, on hear and carsales for the last month or maybe more and ive had like 3 half arsed phone calls

search button on here is your friend.

Bump!!

I wasnt talking about top fuel cars or dedicated race engines, i was talking about big NA street cars that do, do a hundred thousand k's between rebuilds. Holden Astra turbo's and a few others do come with turbo timers standard so that was also a bad example. My point is they are not beneficial to an NA engine, and to date no one has been able to find a valid reason why they are.

i know were it was getting built, not sure if its still there but im not going to disclose it on the forum.

Turbo timers are designed to simply let the car run for a desired period of time after turning off the key. Some of the new ones even have there own calculations on how long your car should run for. They were built for turbo cars, because turbos use the engines oil for cooling and lubrication, after "giving one a hard time" the oil temperatures rise dramatcially, letting the car run down gives the turbo and oil a chance to cool down as the oil is still flowing through the turbo. Shutting a turbo down straight away while the turbo is still hot allows the oil to bake on things like bearings, shafts and seals forming a hard abrasive substence causing huge wear and sometimes seizing the turbo. If they were required on NA cars, drag cars would not shut down there engines as they cross the line, they are not beneficial to NA cars.

Very well said dude, i wont add to it cause i dont think i could put it simpler

Dan u should buy my GTR

what greg said and if that doesnt help i would be getting someone to check out or replace your idle control solenoide as well as check for vacume leaks.

Umm maybe u should go back to school, ambient temperature is the temperature of the air hitting the cooler, the cooler no matter how fast u drive your car through the "wind" will never be below ambient temperature, nor will ever equal ambient temperature, its not possible. AS A SIMPLE ANSWER DONT POST SHIT AS FACTS WHEN U HAVE NO CLUE WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUT.

Am i doing something wrong? or is the moarket just dead atm....?