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BCP7ES, no 11 on the end so you get 0.8 plug gap and start at the exhaust, if the turbos can not breath out freely they won't do much for you Start at manifolds and make sure they haven't cracked yet

Hey Neil, are you signed up for the Hillclimbs yet, are you still going to run the Radical ?

Been there, twice now Bigends are toast mate, time for a strokers

Yeah no worries

I have one I just removed from my R32 due to making track car, works perfectly I'm in St Clair, make an offer

If a stock R34 GTR is breaking traction it has a 4WD problem of some sort, or very very shit tyres, if it has a 4WD problem and is a V-Spec it will most likely have an A-LSD problem to A small air pocket won't kick a code but will slow down the operation speed of the diff and 4WD

It could be the ATTESA system that also activates the rear A-LSD on a R34 V-SPEC needs bleeding Either way it sounds like the car has some issues, best off getting it to someone that knows these cars so they can give it the once over

I bought one with Paul for my 34, I have an R4C quad plate and I have both street driven and raced with the OS88 and am quite impressed with it, I was looking at the Albins after driving my brothers offroad race car with an Albins sequiential but they run a massive shifter assembly which can't be hidden for a street car, for a street car the OS88 wins due to its stealth but for a out an out race car the manualised TH400 would be my choice

Cost $480 for everything with new coils and an hour with the soldering gun, had the whole conversion done in an afternoon

D585 LS2 truck coils, www.ls2rb.com, bit of wiring to remove ignitor and more spark energy you should ever need

Track only ?4" Side pipe with separate 3"wastegate screamer cause track car lol

I pick up the feed from the plenium run it to the solenoid I fit on the chassis rail under the brake booster then back to the steel line that runs around the back of the head, this eliminates the factory T under the balance tube and keeps the whole setup pretty well hidden, this is on both my R32 and R34 GTRs So this was correct then

I only asked that to clarify what the OP actually wants to know and why, a few people I have talked to about boost controller think dual solenoid mean dual boost levels which is why I asked, and since every pic of the HKS EVC-s show a single solenoid mac valve The two HKS units I use both have a stepper motor type controller which is different the what the S uses and they both hold boost perfectly as do most all Jap boost controller, I only EBC I have ever had an issue with is the first EBoost, no matter how we set it up it could not catch the factory RB26 twins as they came on boost to fastter then Eboost to react No point is it is the controlling unit that makes the biggest difference in how they operate and all the big name Jap stuff is good gear

Really ??, would never have known that was the case The question is why the OP is asking that question cause both posts are relevant depending on what OP wants to know and why cause he may not know how EBCs work and sither of these posts could be what he wants to actually know

When you say dual solenoid do you mean the ability to change between two preset boost levels ? Then yes the HKS EVC S does do that

I had one of these in my 34 for 12 months until an apprentice left the boot open over night killing it, not the first time it was run flat but was the last time http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/SSB-LITHIUM-ION-BUELL-1125R-1125CR-MOTORCYCLE-BATTERY-YTX14LBS-425CCA-/252090784081?nav=SEARCH

I believe the internal mods were to do with oiling or filtration, as Paul said not alot of info about it

Can the crank be machined and use oversize bearing ?

There are ratio options 1,2,3 and 4 but there is also series 1 and 2 with internal and casing upgrade, I have series 2 with the extended sump for more oil capacity

Looking good mate, getting serious now huh Love the ARC stuff, I have the M109 on my 34 Do you like the AD08Rs ?

I would think the stag box would be plenty strong enough for a stock 32 GTR for cruising duties Obviously if he wanted to race the car it would need something stronger like the TH350-400 or even 700 might be enough once built

It's not so much the 180deg bend as it is that it turns on such a tight radius, if the 180deg bend was around a 300mm radius the issue wouldn't be so bad but most return flow intercoolers have the 180deg bend inside a 100mm radius which with air volume and velocity trying to get the air to change direction causes turbulance which creates a high pressure area inside the bend that restricts flow A crap cooler core runner entry design will also add to the issue Now I'm only a machine opertator so that might be wrong but that's my understanding of it

That is trick but the box alone is $15k-$30k plus the padel air shift unit c34 4wd stadea box would be the most cost effective way to do it Then there is a company in sydney that make a T350-T400 auto adaptor kit to suit the GTR but these are really a race application setup

Subscribing, looking good and love that colour on the 32 Turbos look familiar

When the light is on chack the fault code, ECU under parcel shelf will have an orange light flashing, count the flashes and google search it and the answer will come up