XKLABA

The 32 is different to the 33-34 setup, but that is the system I will be using once I purchase the 1800 dominator pump to replace my loud az fark Weldon pump, as I already have a Walbro 460 intank as a lift pump, was looking at Fuelab but have heard a few horror stories about them lately Duncan, given it is the engine that primarily heats the fuel having a high flow intank lift pump circulating cool tank fuel through the surge tank can't be a bad thing, if the intank out flows the main pump then the engine return line can be plumbed back to the main tank so the surge tank is always full of the coolest fuel possible

I have 275/35/19 on a 19x9.5+12 and rubs at full lock on my 34 and are a bit narrow tyre for the rim, I have 295/30/18 on my 18 x 10.5 track wheels, 295 is what sits nice on a 10.5, 295/30/19 is what I would put on them and just not use full lock lol

If v spec 34 you need to remove cross brace from under bell housing as well

Jez ?

Exactly what is the physical difference in a diesel turbo v a petrol turbo ?

Where are you located and Can you post pics by chance

Any idea what the turbo actually is ? To the best of my knowledge which isn't much Cat don't make turbos so it is a branded buy in, but from who and what spec It is a neat looking setup ?

What head gasket ? Why copper spray instead of Hylomar spray ? Sounds all good but won't know for sure till you start it

I did see oil in the overflow bottle Strain gauge shift knob is fitting just waiting to be setup but the hold pressure release throttle method works B E A Utifully

I here you car has some blue TE37s on it ATM

That much ? Wow with 11psi limit I would have pegged it around 210-220kw There are a few reasons I say don't use 5th, 1) the time it takes to select 5th is time the car isn't accelerating 2) 5th gear isn't overly strong and shouldn't be used for racing unless necessary, like 1000m runs 3) 5th is an overdrive gear and defeats the purpose of using a shorter diff ratio With Duncans car only having 240 or so kw on semis and 4wd he isn't really going to have many issues fighting traction but with 390rwkw and only RWD the shorter ratio will see alot of wheel spin through the first few gears My R34 with about 420awkw and the factory 3.545 diff and the stock Getrag 6 speed it will spin all of 1st all of 2nd and most of 3rd with 295 semis I have since changed that to a option 2 OS88 with a much taller 1st and moded transfer case and on 19psi (380kw) at Coota for Nulon Nationals it pulled away nicely, watch the Nulon Nationals round 4 2015 vid on YouTube I'm the only blue 34 and only did one pass https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rmxbttyMoJo&feature=youtu.be

How long does it take to stitch weld a boot and remove some stone chips lol

Changing ratios will most likely lower power and torque dyno readings What quater times and MPH are you currently doing ? Personally I would be looking at 3.9s, especially given you have them already

Ideally you want the shortest ratio that will see you cross the 400m line still in 4th gear ( that's with a 5 speeder, the 6 speed you have to use 5th ) What kind of power and torque does the car make ? Is it a 2.5 or 3.0 ?

depends if you want to keep the A-LSD or not

Al long as you can get through the gears quickly Even with stock box stock ratios on the R34 with 300+kw first is nearly useless and still need to grab 5th down the quater, 2nd gear with 3.55s is just that little bit to tall but with enough revs and enough hating of clutch can be luanched in 2nd Personally I would spend the money on changing the diff gears on getting more power

I have gone the other way and put 3.545s in R32 diffs and they bolted striaght into my R34, though the front diff in the R34 is a R180 where the 32-33 is a R160

It's also a matter of leverage to a certain degree and getting a 53.8mm wheel it push 28psi off a 71.1mm wheel is harder then off a 63mm wheel

I don't have the 28psi graph with boost on it http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104332-rb30-hybrid-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-8# I do have 24 psi in the RB30 dyno thread

What he said with twin 5" bodied 100 cell cats

I have run RSs to 28psi on a 3.0 with factory pipe work ( except ARC cooler, Z32 AFMs and modded TT pipe ) with no issue, holds boost @28psi perfectly to shut off, but power starts to fall over from around 7k through to the 8500 redline, which I have put down to the exhaust wheel/housing but the 3.0 moves alot more gases @8k then a 2.8 which obviously moves more then a 2.6 Which brings me to my next point, what is the restriction, the T28 wheel or the 0.64 housing ? If it is indeed the wheel then the larger housing won't do a great deal of anything to help power or response

Oh ok cool, there is another line at the back of the balance tube by the firewall that feeds the factory boost gauge Remember to cap of the factory feed under the plenum

Closed loop on the Haltech is the ticket mate So you looped a hose joining the two steel line that run around the back of the head, what have you done for a boost signal

Thanks Neil, it was a fair few 1am finishs I am going to do 4-5 rounds next year, mainly chasing records this time Going to bring the radical next year, nice, keep Paul honest lol I didn't like Marulan, does not suit the heavy GTR, so not upset it's not coming back next year Mick

You have to run a line from the plenum to the steel hose that runs around the back of engine, I can't remember off the top of my head if it is top or middle hose If you pull both off the get off one of the wastegate lines at the actuator and get someone to blow into it then feel for which one has air coming out of it and connect to that one I put my solenoids under the brake boost for less heat and less visibility then run hose from plenum to solenoid then from solenoid to steel line There is one tab on intake side that has bolt that goes through it then through head and bolts into block, there are three lines ( 2 x air and 1 x water ) that are connected to each other I will also suggest getting something better then an Eboost