Bl4cK32

Ive got series V rx7 ones. They are red in colour, and i think the part number ended in ....1370?? Meggala's site had them listed. They idle perfect with the the pfc, and are drop in replacements, no resistors etc required

Looks to be the same problem i had... Car started, and idled fine. Light load was fine. Put your foot down and nothing. Cas was farked, and it was running sfa timing under boost....... People suggested that my cam was off a tooth also when i had the problem, but it wasnt...

With the copper grease you smear the back of the new pad, and the two shims (except the side that the piston is on ) Don't make it too thick, just cover it about 1mm or so thick (barely covered). I guess it'd be the same for the anti-squeal stuff....

no ebay links - in the rules

No dramas at all. I had my calipers rebuilt too before i put them in (upgraded to 32gtr items in my gtst) I used the factory shims, and copper grease. After i bled the system, i went around a few streets doing the 80 to 30 stops and got them smoking. Never had any squeels, or dramas (once the last few air bubbles worked their way out). They are so good now i can lock the fronts (rear does anyway due to my 2 way diff) so my tyres are my only downfall with the setup im running. No need for brembos at all

I bought a caliper rebuild kit from Nissan. (see thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=86394&hl=shim ) It has the chopped down shim that you are talking about. It is the correct shim for the pad you are using. Dont forget to put the copper grease in when you reassemble. I did and havent had any squealing probs from my new rotors and rb74 pads

Trouble is no-one (cbc's etc) has any listings for a r33 series 1 box. Only options here for me is to pull the bearings out the box first, and then see if i can get them matched up (hopefully) if i cant, then i have to fork out the stupid price nissan wants for the oem items. I was hoping someone has done it before, and could confirm it could be done, even better supply me with some part numbers.

SteveL - Is there a cheaper alternative to doing a bearing kit through a series 1 r33 gtst box? I dont wanna have to pay $450ish for a bearing set, if they are available through CBC etc.... Anyone not used genuine bearings for a rebuild before??

Yer, dont remove the outer casing, just take out the dash cluster and the end from the gearbox. You can slide the new inner (made from Gaugeworks (who even make it with a metal end where it goes into the cluster so it doesnt snap)) with new grease. I dont see the need to remove the whole lot if its the inner thats snapped....

I was gunna say id be in, but not tihis time of year If its in the new year, i may be in as well...

Then why are u building it like a race motor? Forged rods etc are not needed if you want reliability. Its all about tuning and what you do with the motor. Also you shouldnt need oil squirters if you are running the forged pistons. R32GTST - The harmonic balancer from the rb30 and the rb25 are different, due to the fact they run different aircon belts (the middle belt on the pulley from memory) Run whichever one you are going to put the car in (to use its aircon) the rb30e one has a v groove belt, as the rb25 has the same belt as the alternator, and ps. Those 264 cams would be great

A guy on SDU is making carbon fibre grilles, and Nismo bonnet air splitters. I cant remember how much, but i'll try to find a link....

Tie rod ends can be bought as a whole (rubber and all) from Pedders for $32.50 ea. You should replace the whole end, not just the rubber

Maybe if you used english more people may be able to understand you and help?

Merry Christams Kym. I'll try to make it if im in the area for one of them burnt chops

Can someone point out to me what the point is of letting everyone know where in Adelaide nice cars frequent, and are generally located? If i owned a nice r34GTR (or just my 32) and had people saying "saw it here" or i see it all the time here...wouldnt that make your car more of a target for thieves / police ?? I just dont see the sense in saying where u saw x car at y. Dont wanna sound like a pri(k, just dont put up where you saw, or think you saw me or my car driving/hanging around etc.... Feel free for everyone else though....

There is a WTB section. And UAS sell em for $150

yer, id feel funny riding someones bike, especially a larger one if you haven't ridden much before... I dont like the idea of owning a used bike that ive just dropped Unless you mean as a passenger Maxx... Take a photo with you on the rear of an r1 for us

cant go past a hayabusa if your looking for a big bike....MMmmm 1300cc's http://users.chariot.net.au/~dredding/MyBusa4.html

my rev limit on the 3Lt is set to 7200

Another helpful comment people always like to hear...

coil packs leaking spark?

FYI - 9mm lift is where the cams require the head to have some material removed for clearance. Duration doesnt affect it. Larger injectors can be bought that fit to the oem fuel rail. Maybe do some more research...

I left mine in, i just used a socket extension to get up there to take it out, then a magnetic screwdriver to help get it in. (then swapped to socket to tighten) dont lose the split pin, as its easy to do like i did :lol: Just replace with a fresh one if you do... If you want it easier just take out the lower dash part (section below the steering wheel), or if your feeling energetic take out the drivers seat as well, and make it damn easy. I used some foam (or a pillow) on the foot sill to lean on instead....

I havent heard back yet either....