Bl4cK32

Look, at the end of the day everyone takes their cars to a place that they trust. 1 thing that cannot be guaranteed is the workmanship of anyone on your car. The only way you are going to get good service is by customer loyalty. Find someone who knows what they are doing, and stay with them. Me- I know Shaun @ Boostworx does know his stuff, and does a good job. I go back when i need to.Why? Because i know he wont fix bogus problems, doesnt fark around, and he doesnt charge like a wounded bull. Asking people what problems they have had is fine, but dont take someones opinion of a workshop the final say. Just because they have great service, doesnt mean you will get the same. ps - ive lost a motor due to someone overtightening a tensioner bearing. I wouldnt take my Turbo to be Tuned there

Pfft..$300 for labour. Take off the pin from the clutch master rod, then the 2 nuts holding the cluth master in the engine bay. Get up under teh dash, and theres 1 bolt at the top of the box. Then it comes out. Simply use some scrap pieces of sheet to reinforce the areas where the spot welds are (making sure it will still go back in origional spot after) Hes charging you to remove 2 nuts, 1 bolt and a little welding....about 3 hours work. I can get my clutch master off and the pedal box out in like 30 mins.

boots for the ps rack can be bought from Repcos. Cost like $13 from memory - Pt. number RRB033. Works on both sides.

Would be good to know if they could do a good price for a group buy. Id be interested in getting one if the price was right

As when you are doing WOT runs in 3rd and 4th its hard to look out the back and where you are going at the same time, as well as on the street are a no-no...

the rb25de top half of the plenum is different to the rb20det one. The AAC valve is different, but the ports are the same between the two. I used my rb20det top half as it bolts up, and retains the std AAC valve. Simply use your std inlet (r33?), and modify the strut brace. I am doing the exact same thing this week to make my strut brace clear the throttle body. Simply making new ends where it bolts to the strut tower to offset the bar....

spray it liberally with silicon creeping spray, then use a puller...

r33's can run their own inlet system, due to them being the same port size as the rb25de head. They still need to be lowered, but you can make a lowering plate instead of redrilling the mounts. Most of these q's can be answered by simply looking at your motor, and the new one going in.... Difference between non-turbo and turbo blocks have been answered b4. They are they same block in the series 2 motor.

im not 100% sure, but i think Shaun cut the end (through the origional weld) off that mount and rewelded it lower.

this was answered less than a week ago.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=95990

1 week too late

1.17v @ 850rpm

Mine had that. Then when pulling into work, the pedal box broke. Popped all 4 spot welds holding it together, split it, and twisted the box. Me > car towed home Get under the dash, look at the braket at the top of your clutch pedal. Take note of the side welds.

mine were not welded up, Cubes however did. I think he may have a pic too....showing my missing bolt all 4 need redrilling on the bracket to engine

Only way to be sure is to check the number on the crownwheel

The one supplied by the Datalogit people. It hasnt got the brand on the cable, but the cd with drivers supplied has Digitus printed on it.

yer i got a q45 running on my 3lt. Idles fine with 550cc injectors on the PFC.

just drill the new hole below on where the mount bolts to the block.

Had a chance to test mine out today, with the help of Cubes and his laptop. Had to setup the com port to recognize the usb adaptor supplied by the Datalogit people. After it was done, we had no problems with data transfer, or dropouts. I need get a AFR meter on the car to fully utilise the software and cable Also i can recommend people to get Dataloglab. It makes a hell of a difference to reading the logged data that we grabbed while cruising.

why did the tuner pull out the low end timing??

I got my 044 installe din the 32 by Shaun. Cant hear it at all, excpet on hot days it gets a little noisy. Id expect them to say something like that regarding a skyline

are you using the optional supplied converter cable from the Datalogit people?

why would you want to own a skyline with a bike like that sitting there All the speed you need...

Your only lucky if the 5-0 dont give it back with a defect

Thats the beauty of the Nismo GT-Pro Lsd, you can adjust the preload as per the sheet i posted on the first page. The only other way i think is to shim it tighter, or take em out to make it looser.