Bl4cK32

I think he means the GT30 CHRA with the vg30 exhaust (which is about ~0.7 ar) Anyways, i think the 0.6 front on the GT35r will still be the best setup for me. If it cracks just over 300rwkw, then im happy ....at the slight cost of getting the turbo setup the way i want

Same here Its all about research for me as turbos (in my eyes) are harder to understand.... I understand about the turbine side gains theory...As a wise man once said : What id really like to know is what exactly would be the difference in using the different size compressor covers. Its always going to come down to trial and error i suppose....and cost

D1 garage sell a kit I believe. Personally ive got the Tomei Hicas lock kit. Its just two brass shims that lock the rear rack in place, and a little black box for the hicas comp that makes it think all is good. Everything else stays the same (lines etc)

I'll trust fact that GCG know what they are talking about. Ford used the 0.5 front as it was a low boost application to keep the power down. (am i right...lol?) I think the slighlty bigger compressor (0.6 front) will be a bit better for a little more (14 to 19 psi) boost than Ford was running. If i wanted more boost again (ie 20+ psi) id go for the 0.7 front....thats my theory anyway, and im sticking to it

Std R32 GTR rotors are NEW 32mm thick, and need replacing when at 30mm. Even R32 Gtst new are 30, and need replacing at 28mm...where are you getting your info from?

GTS-T - v1:100 for me

Id actually like to know for myself, given two sets of tyres (same compound) on the 2 different size rims - one 16" with 225x50x16 the other one with 235x45x17 which one would be a better overall choice for a street car, with an odd track day? Anyone know if rim size makes any difference at all?

now go get them fitted and post results

Ive got the AP Engineering RB20det version (same as the rb25 model) - RB20DET v2.32

The only time i'll be impressed, is when Holden decide to build a car (any kind) and run with it. Instead of showing Australia - "Hey, look what we can do, but too bad we're not gunna make it available" Talk about Australia's biggest co(k teasers....i say put up or fu(k off....

I saw one on the highway on the way driving to Melbourne at the start of the year. It said - "Dont sleep and drive" i kid you not! i"ll try and find the photo and scan it

Well considering he has a rb30det, id say he knows what hes on about. As for being the guinea pig....im runnin not talking

Chris, i have bilsteins in the car now, and when you rode in it last at your place. My height is approx 350mm from centre to wheel arch (ive just rechecked it recently) I have 225 50 16 rims (8.5 rear / 7.5 front wide) its not a harsh ride, like coilovers, but not as soft as std sus. About as hard as you would want i say. My car had been tuned to about 200 rwkw when you rode in it too, so that may give you some feel on what its like with the 16's. Personally im hoping to go 17 x 8 and 17x 9 on the rear, later down the track.

Ok. Sorry if i sounded a bit harsh there. Maybe you should learn a bit more about your car before investing in some software and a cble to tune it with. Suspension btw is no where even remotely connected to the cars ECU, or any ECU. Yes, there are 3 diagnostic modes the car has. 1 for the ecu itself, one for Hicas (has its own ecu) and the aircon has its own diagnostic mode.

Well i guess you should talk to GCG then, as they think differently. I emailed them and they said : This is on a street driven car.

Vertical axis is Load People, this isnt a fault finding software. Its just the laptop software to enable you to tune your car via a full screen showing the 20x20 grid instead of the 5x5 on the hand controller. It wont help you do magic things with your car "ie diagnose HICAS" - are you serious? - its a tuning device, and should only be used by a professional tuner....not backyard tuners wanting to play with their tune and kill their car....

put me down for one to bulk the list up then

Ok, now ive got a good question disco (or anyone else) : what is the difference between the T04E and the T04S covers...and when comparing same size covers - 0.5 T04E vs T04S? (Also disco, what would you say would be the best on my motor, the 0.5, 0.6 or the 0.7? What would be the difference in power spread over the 3 covers?

Due to cops browsing these forums, the biggest identifying pic of my car you will see here is my avatar. Other than that, if i rock up anywhere on an event, you can all see how fugly in real life my wreck is

Its physically very hard. I checked out a r32 gtr shell and compared it to mine (gtst) Basically the front chassis rails in the engine bay are completely different. They have like a upside down u to let the front driveshafts have room to clear . Then inside the car on the drivers side there is a hump to let the transfer case have clearance as well. In other words, unless you are prepared to do a cut and shut on the front end, and modify some of the floor pan its a very hard job imho. Otherwise go for it

lol...not yet still getting the exact turbo specs i want organised I'll post dyno results when its on though...

thanks disco, your help is appreciated always

If i read the article right, they didnt even use brake fluid in the test either....they used a machine thats setup to test for leaks of the hose. Would the results differ when not using brake fluid also?

yes they did. The centres are identical as well as the housings. The halfshafts are a different bolt pattern though and need to be swapped over. Ive got a 2 way Nismo GT Pro mechanical diff (which is a 4.3) and i find it a little short for my motor. I need to fit the s13 centre to it to lower the ratio. If i could find someone with the same diff as mine, but s13 ratio, id swap it

cool. Now for another question Is it just a simple job of swapping the 0.5 cover for a 0.7 cover between the two turbos? Ive heard so many people say they are different specs, but are they different, or the same? ie, if i bought the one on the left, could i unbolt the front cover and swap it for a 0.7 ar front? Thanks