Bl4cK32

Below is two pics of the GT35r (GT35/40R) turbos. The one on the left has the .5 front cover as it came off the ford xr6 turbo. The one on the right has a .7 front cover supplied aftermarket. The turbo on the left (.5 ar front ) has a hose going from the actuator to a bung on the compressor cover, where the 0.7 cover one on the left doesnt have this at all. Where do you need to attatch the hose coming off the actuator if you have the 0.7 front cover?? Somewhere after the outlet of the turbo on the pipework? Thanks

Ok, for tuning purposes the hand controller does basically the same as the datalogit. BUT there are a hell of a lot more fetures which imho make it worth the little extra...do a search and you may be suprised what you can do with it from SK: OK, but only the ones that you can't access via the Commander Inlet air temp fuel map Water temp fuel map RPM acceleration fuel map Cranking Injector dwell map Water temp versus boost fuel correction Inlet air temp versus boost fuel correction RPM Load Point table AFM load point table AFM voltage table Ignition versus water temp correction Ignition versus inlet air temp correction Ignition dwell versus RPM correction Ignition versus battery voltage correction Ignition versus boost correction Individual injector trim Injector lag versus battery voltage correction Via the Datalogit there is also; Antilag via injection Antilag via ignition Intercooler spray Basically anything that you want to turn on or off Then there is the logging Every standard sensor is logged Plus 4 others (eg; lambda, brake temperature, suspension travel etc etc) as well as : All of which are important once you reach the limitations of the stock afm/load point base map setup. Swapping to a Z32 or VH41/Q45 AFM does zilch in its own. Software is required. There's also the A/C and non a/c overheat fan temp switch.

Doesnt help if everyone is in differnet states, or you all want to use it at the same time But nothing stopping you organizing your own sub group buy as part of this one

well depending on price i may buy one. I need it to change the base maps on my rb20 AP Engineering Power fc using the 3Lt Anyone else want one? I believe that the model versions are here : http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/model-status.html

thats my thinking....series 2 rb30det will be definitly be a refinement

Even better, stand outside the regency office, and wait for people to come to you

make sure you find out what size you have, as they come in 12mm or 14mm size threaded rod

the $499 price tag....NZ$? Give us a group buy price in $AU

Thats the thing, CUbes and myself were looking for the heads for our motors almost 3 years ago now...a lot has changed in that time for skylines. Especially prices for parts. Saying you can buy GTR heads for $1500 now doesnt reflect the almost $3k price tag back then

Can we get a group buy organized Mafia??

Try whilteline, or Noltec. If your front inners are worn, id say your car may be too low.

So you cbf drilling a hole, but you wanna cut down the timing belt...? Why not drill the hole, then use the 94407 belt from dayco - which is a straight fit

sounds like theres going to be a lot of people standing around waiting for a run....

Cubes and myself had the head rebuilt ready to go before the bottom end was even started....might be a good idea to do that first. The waterpump is below the extra deck height where the pulley sits. Depending on how the builder drills it, it may not or may be a problem

It was $42 for the parts for the rebuild kit (dust covers etc) and $58 in labour...ie $100 per caliper to rebuild. The pistons shouldnt need replacing...

I bought a set of rb74's for my front calipers (r33/r32 gtr) and they cost $160. Expect freight to cost just under $20. Race brakes express posted them to me here in SA. With my 2 way diff, and r33 rebuilt calipers up front, i find the rb74 pads on the front are a pretty good match for the rear when it locks up under braking.... Have you checked your calipers are working 100% to start with gR33dy? My tyres are now my braking weak point due to the brakes working as they should

So when's take off, and how long till you reach the moon with that turbo?

dynorunorban

Its not the fan blades, but the fan shround at the top, to let the piping cross over the top of the fan where it needs to be cut. Also the drivers side inner guard needs a hole cut (depending on pipework size) if you want to plumb it that way. You can buy a hole saw to cut it out in one go. Mine is done the way you are suggesting, and if i did it over agian i would just follow the factory piping route...i dont like my car all cut up

How much for just the 1 tranpath then mate

ok ive found pics i had on my computer from a while ago of the 3037Pro S turbo. It appears that it may use the same housing as the 2835 ProS, but without measuring it, how can u really be sure??

because if you crash your car and are unconscious in the drivers seat the timer will keep petrol flowing to the engine bay....nice way to fuel a fire id say

Condition? if all is good i get dibs Ill pay freight, as busfreight come to your door to get it, and package it for you Let me know

but stock rb25de cams are different to det ones...power noses over at 5500 rpm ish.

What brand Toyo, how many and how much?