Bl4cK32

Ok, i did some testing today.....noticed that a) after a good 1hr drive it takes that long for the voltage to drop down to 13.9-13.8v B) it never drops below 13.8-13.9v with everything on, lights, demister, fan on flat out etc. c) when Cold it sits on 14.5v. Inspection of the leads tells me that my battery to earth are fine (2 thick guage wiring used) and that my engine to earth isnt looking in the bect condition...so ill redo it The only thing it doesnt do Cubes is : Cranking now doesn't drop below 11.3v. Prior it would drop to 9-10v.

your clutch pedal box could be breaking. Look up at the top of the pedal and have a look to see if its on its way out...

If you're that worried, spend the extra and buy the genuine product, then be happy it is of the quality you would expect....

lol...didnt see that.

Yer my battery died fast with my new motor installed. I put it down to being an old battery. i replace it with a Delkor Calcium 660cca battery. Definitly increased starting power, and sits on 14.3v as per the PFC hand controller. Did a quick check the other day, and the voltage does drop down to 9-10v when cranking over....i might replace the old earth leads the previous owner had for his stereo system... Al- any where on the chassis is a good place to earth, as long as it has good contact (you should know that from your audio installation days), Why not strap 2x 8 gauge pieces together if in doubt and use that as an earth...(probably overkill ) Any thick gauge cable is ok...as long as it has good contact...

yer i got one. Biggest advantage is the weight difference... Std 2 piece was heaps heavy where the 1 piece you can lift it over your head with 1 hand

sprints sell a plastic nissan generic dummy with a ring on the end so you can pull it out easy...$8 from memory

Sounds like bs to me... lean out....ping and show knock...then die

Interested in these clint. Will send u an email soon about getting pics...

how much just for the exhaust housing, and is it red because it goes faster?

The rods that come out of the steering rack (with rubber boots over part of them) either side are called the "Tie rods" The bits on the end that are screwed on to the "Tie rods" are funnily enough called "Tie rod ends" These connect to the hubs and tell em which way to go when u turn the steering wheel...

They are better designed due to the fact where each runner meets, the internal diameter of the runners grow, not like a single log at all really, like the std manifold is. more explained here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=78681&hl=cast do a search, cos they are better over std imho

might need a spacer plate to use it on the std rb20 manifold.... Why not try source a cheap HKS cast manifold? They can be had for half the cost of them stainless tube ones

can u get nismo rear cradle bushes? (not pinapples) as well as nismo diff mounts?

Ive got a stuffed rb20det head with everything, bar the exhaust camshaft, and 2 exhaust valves.... lemme know what u want for it by pm, otherwise it goes in the bin

So if i cant get the height i want (350mm front & back) i can just get some new circlip rings machined in to make the car sit there? Do i need to change anything else like redo the valving or change springs to function with the new height (with either the top circlip setting or custom one @ 350mm)?

my bilsteins have 3 levels for the clip to sit at. At the medium setting it is about the same height as your car. (33mm front, 340mm rear) I want to go to 350mm all round, and i hope bringing it up to the top notch should fix it. I think from memory they are like 10 to 15mm apart. I believe they can be machined to put extra levels to adjust with?....

how much for the std dump by itself?

Originally Posted by eXc ok, so i measured tonight. Front height from centre of wheel to gaurd = 330mm Rear height from centre of wheel to gaurd = 340mm Which is below the 350 you reccomended. So what how is this going to efffect the car? I wasn't planning on buying new springs..... My car is the same height.....Ive got Bilsteins in my car atm (with unknown springs, and have 3 height adjustment via a circlip) Its currently on the middle setting. I want to have the car sitting at 350mm...will it raise the car enough just by going to the top setting on the Bilsteins? Car will then have these settings : Originally Posted by SydneyKid Around 1 degreee negative camber on the front is my suggestion for a road car. The Whiteline camber adjustable bushes will give you that. Around 0.5 degree negative camber on the rear is my suggestion for a road car. Two sets (inner upper and inner outer) of Whiteline camber adjustable bushes will give you that. Originally Posted by SydneyKid the maximum caster you can get is the target. Maybe a little more on the left than the right to allow for camber of the road. For a road car I would set the front camber at 1 degree negative and the rear camber at 0.5 degree negative. Front toe at zero is OK, I would have the rear slightly toe in, say 1 mm each side. Im currently doing the front steering rack (new boots, rack mounts, and tie rod ends), so a wheel alignment is on the cards shortly after next on the list : adjustable bars with 27 mm front and 24 mm rear.... rear subframe mounts, and pinapples...

My car is the same height.....Ive got Bilsteins in my car atm (with unknown springs, and have 3 height adjustment via a circlip) Its currently on the middle setting. I want to have the car sitting at 350mm...with these settings Im currently doing the front steering rack (new boots, rack mounts, and tie rod ends), so a wheel alignment is on the cards shortly after next on the list : adjustable bars with 27 mm front and 24 mm rear

ask him what he'd recommend for :

Mine is yellow, and its a gtst?

ive had a 3" system, then changed to a 2x 2.5" without changing anything else...Im telling you its quiter, and doesnt drone anywhere near what it used to....

mine goes to twin 2.5" after the cat, and stays that way all the way to the rear, where it has 2 x 3" mufflers. It doesnt drone at all and is nice and quiet.