Bl4cK32

Sorry...lol I had a line of thought, then managed to type something different Long day at work me thinks... What i was trying to explain was that the rb20 highflow is making about the same max power it would on the rb20. Just its got a bigger motor to help it get there...faster obviously

If it blows smoke first thing in the morning for a little bit then stops its the valve stem seals. Oil leaks down (usually during the night) and burns off when you start your car first thing. Id do a compression test yourself, and you should know quickly if its rings. As stated above i believe a blown turbo seal is usually white smoke. Probably unrelated but has the car been tuned properly on a dyno? (what ecu is the car running?)

arnt the actual tie rods on ceffies and r32 different? I have heard s14 and r33 use the same rod end as the r32's....just need to find some thats the problem

rb25/30det, 550cc inj. 044 pump, q45 afm, ic, exhaust, pfc, ebc. Head has minor porting done.

previous owner of my car had the rb20 highflowed. Old chart below was previous tune (@1 bar) now it makes ~218rwkw @ 1.1 bar, with 30 more Nm of torque. It spools the same as a stocker rb20det turbo.

Howdy, I need to replace the tie rod ends (mine are shagged) in my r32 Gtst. I havent found any aftermarket oem ones yet (anyone got a part number?) And i came across the Jap drift ones as pictured here : http://search1.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search...cale=0jp&mode=1 Does NVH increase any with using these adjustable ones? Im not using the car for drift, mainly daily driver, and maybe some track (strip and curcuit). I assume these need to be greased regularly? Any advantages/disadvantages..... Just after peoples opinions.... Thanks

damn you, and your pit

glad your happy Exhaust done me well in the time i owned it, good to see it went to a loving home

Are the insides of your tyres wearing on your lowered car?? then - 1 pair of rear upper camber arms for sale to suit a r32 or s13 silvia i believe... These are copies of the JIC brand items, and were bought as part of a group buy on these forums. Adjusts camber from -4 to +4 degrees (which is heaps!) Never been fitted to any car, selling due to need money for other things first. Nothing wrong with items, still in perfect unused condition. Willing to ship interstate at buyers expense. Items located in Adelaide. Pics below. Actual items are painted in blue as well, not silver as pictured. Will post actual pics in a few days... Price : $220 no offers (includes shipping) or $200 for the pair pickup in Adelaide.

might be...i havent bled it properly enough to tell Another job for the slack diy mechanic me thinks

Ok...i can get rubber boots from Repco, as well as the ball joints. Rubber mounts from Nissan. Is it worth doin the small recon job on the rack ive got, or slapping in a second hand rack? Does anyone know anywhere that reconditions steering racks in SA? (Dont say Pedders, as they send em to Melbourne on an exchange basis for like $400-$500)

Shannons....choice of repairer will always win me over

I asked the guy about my pedal bleeding off slowly, and he reckons it has to be the master cylinder, not the slave. The slave will only leak fluid, or suck in air. Good way to tell which is stuffed (master or slave) is to block off the line and press the pedal. If it bleeds off its the master He rekons 1 in 50 or so come brand new that are stuffed, so be aware, you can get a dud newie....

Hicas front power steering rack still available?

Anyone replacede one of these before? What did you use, new, reconditioned, or a second handie? How easy was it to do yourself, and where did you do it? Is it easier on a hoist? Any info is appreciated, as the search button is shagged....mods!!

Doing some servicing on the r32, and noticed i have a shagged power steering rack on the front :boobies2: ...the one in there now was a 2nd hand replacement to get the car through regency (previous owner) Im after somewhere that sells em new, or reconditions em....I need new tie rod ends, the rubber boot on the drivers side is completely split, and the actual rubber mounts where its bolted onto the x-member are shagged.. Its completely stuffed in other words, and i dont wanna 2nd handie to stuff up later...any ideas?? :confused:

Thats bs....its best to let the drill and drill bit do the work. Gentle pressure is ok, otherwise it could get ugly...ive seen some dodgy work practices in my time i tells ya.... Hows the new exhaust sound by the way? :uh-huh:

There is, ive just gotta call shaun and get a print off of it.... Ive got bilsteins in atm, but need a wheel alignmet, bushes/pinapples for the rear then get some better rubber...(looking at Toyo Proxes R888:drooling: ) Im curious to know a time as well, but shes all wheelspin for 2 or 3 gears in the dry atm...

If my rb20det hadnt bit the dust, its nice to see what was capable of the old motor. I remember the time the most anyone seemed to say was capable of the little 2.0Lt was about 200rwkw...then times go by....220 then 240...now it seems you guys are tipping the scales getting close to the 300rwkw. Keep it up i say, but i just cant stand the lag. When i want it the power down, i want it now.. A side not though, ive still got the rb20det turbo on my current setup. The turbo was highflowed and it recently made ~218rwkw @ 16psi for those out there wondering what the std turbo is capable of

K & A motorsport. Fronts are ok id say...they are the ones that stop u the most.

I used the rb20det pump out of mine, and its sits over 4 on cold (5 on the oil pressure gauge), cruise is 2, and warm sees 6 (nudging 7 as cubes said).... Only difference between mine and his is the cold start pressure i believe...

yup....clean snap on cylinder 2 exhaust valves, others had hit but didnt snap.

Lol...obviously... Ive had cars and bikes before that have had the gauge cluster, and lights etc cutout, but the damn thing still runs....

mechanical for oil pressure....if i loose all electrics in my car, i can still drive home, knowing if i have oil pressure or not fuel pressure...electrical if the gauge is inside the car boost pressure...i use my avcr for that one

you think thats bad, check out the firewall movement from the clutch too....your on it more than the brakes