Bl4cK32

I know mines set to low by the previous owner.....i havent had the need to adjust it any harder yet, but would like to know what the difference in handling from low to high feels like

Found it finally.....search function isnt working properly.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=49866

price drop

So the lowest point on your exhaust is the dump pipe off the turbo??? You've had your exhaust made and its much nicer than any Jap system?? Obviously never had your exhaust system off and had a decent look at it then... Ask Cubes what he thinks of his stainless custom exhaust...

No, the part the speedo cable screws into on the actual gearbox. Its held in by a little clip which has a phillips head screw. Then it pulls out (its sealed by an o ring)

Not if someone with more knowledge can tell us how to go about using correction tables to stop running out of load points

Mine still is programmed to say its running the rb20 injectors as well.....

Ive got 550cc rx7 series 5 injectors with a Bosch 044 pump.

I didnt think you could "beef up" a manual gearbox....Only modify auto g-boxes. $500ish will rebuild a rb20det box, $950 in parts + $600 in labour say to rebuild the r33 box.

He said that it cannot change the load point scale, or that it needs some correction added to one of the tables.....me cant remember exaclty

That it cannot change the load point scale, or that it needs some correction added to one of the tables.....

Thats what i got sitting behind my rb30det atm....Id say it should be ok....

lol....that babyseat in the back makes a hell of a difference too. I need to sort that sketchy feeling...time for a decent wheel alignment me thinks

Earlier r33's like 92-93 use the push, later ones use the pull. I wouldnt worry about which one is internally stronger. If you are that worried, get an OS gearset, or dogbox. There is a conversion to make push to pull, or pull to push....i just used the push to keep it the same as the r32 setup.

Thats what Shaun said it did with mine. He needs to see if changing one of the correction tables helps with the fueling issue... Id say boost does drop off higher in the rpm...i didnt check, but its almost a certainty. There is more left in the turbo, but no room to tune. Ill call ya today or tomorrow so ya can have a looksie at the settings....

Tuned yesterday, but more problems came up will let you know.... Check the r33 rb30 thread for more details etc....

yer rb20 turbo...its what was on the car b4 i did the upgrade...itll do till i stop saving for a house torque...MMmmm yer its nice I'll check the pinouts for ya and post back later

ok....here we go r33 box bolts up to rb20/25/30 motor and gearshift is in same spot. U need : rb25det gearbox, rb20det tailshaft end that bolts to diff, r32 gtr speedo sender, r33 red cog off speedo sender in r33 box u have, custom tailshaft, custom gearbox mount, r33 gearbox yoke. R33 gearbox is longer so using a auto x member only works if you have an auto chassis to begin with (bolts in). Cut the brown r32 gtr cog off the sender, and swap it for the r33 red cod (do a search i showed pics on "speedo sender fixed") Any other q's lemme know

Had my rb30det tuned yesterday. Previously had what was thought as timing issues. Turned out it was a faulty cas. All sorted....turbo is a rb20 highflow that was on before motor was built. Results are below. Had issues with the q45 afm...apparently (cubes feel free to go into more detail ) 1 bar is at the end of the map range. Shaun, the tuner, said it runs the best when set up with the q45 running as the rb20 afm under the settings. Changing it to the vh45 afm just makes the car run very rich, and he said something like he cant pull any more fuel out? Cubes....ring shaun for me and get the lowdown on this Me no technical Could have run more boost, but like i said need to sort it running rich under boost.... Need subframe bushes now, as the 2 way makes the rear squirm....and breaks traction in 2nd on boost

How is that relevant when people here are talking about a $22 boost controller, running slightly more than std boost :confused:

Sounds like the old two stroke technology of power valves...Small reed valves in the exhaust port are closed at idle, and gradually open up at 6000rpm where the snap kicks in. Then its hold on time Basically idea was to give some useable torque at idle....

Could you scan the instructions for me? Ive got the GT Pro LSD too, and ive never seen the actual instructions for how to adjust it. As for the chirping...its a mechanical diff. Either push the clutch in around corners, or get used to it....

got any pics of the worn cas "nub"...so the rest of us can see it

See the the trick there Cubes is you keep the gas on till you legs and feet feel tingly, then you say...."Yup, i can still feel everything".... Then when you slur it the 4th time "Yus....icunsillfill maaahh legzzz" is when they KNOW to turn the gas down Thats when id let em shove a needle in me

point of having a spare is incase you need to go through regency...