Bl4cK32

the alternator sits basically in front (towards the front) of the starter motor, and its easy to think one is playing up when its the other. I cant remember exactly, but there is a power feed going from the alternator directly to the starter solenoid. It sounds like the starter solenoid (the small round part on top of the starter) has shagged it, and may be playing funny buggers with the alternator (due to its direct feed from the alt.) Ive got a spare starter motor here you are welcome to try, and if it sorts your problem, you are welcome to have it for $50 Its an easy job to get the starter out too...2 bolts, and 2 nuts....oh and a skinned knuckle or 2

That warranty is bs. Ive been through consumer affairs before, and it states if you dont get what you pay for, you are entitled to a refund... ie if you pay $200 for a watch, you expect it to last / work properly... Ring consumer affairs, and tell em your motor lasted 300km's..you will have a case for a refund, as no one expects a motor to die after that short of a time. Good luck

Skyline model = r32 gtst Wheel diameter = 7.5" front / 8.5" rear Wheel width =225 Wheel offset = +25 front / +38 rear Tyre size =225/50*16 Modifications to fit = none

that they are They still have all the shims/ and pins etc...complete calipers

Why does the engine number matter? Mine isnt recorded anywhere on my rego papers, and it hasn't got a stolen motor in it. It is the asme as if you bought a new block off nissan, then stamped your old number on it. cubes ran his off the stock rb20 ecu for a while there.....

Item:R32 Gtst Type M 4 pot front brake calipers (rotors u can have for free) Location: Adelaide Item Condition:Excellent Reason for Selling:Need bigger brakes Price and Payment Conditions:$300 ono Extra Info:Rotors are unmeasured, and i believe they are on the last skim, so i will throw them in for free Pads are also unuseable Contact Details: write here so everyone can see whats goin on... Pictured below is an example, not the actual item advertised. I will ship interstate, at buyers expense. I will do cod, but only if a deposit is left first to cover any postage costs for me, should you decide you dont want them

why chose that particular brand, than, say a brand that you are comfortable setting up? Most engine builders stick with what they know works....

still got those workshop pages on file Geoff? Are they for the r33 calipers?

will take std HCR32 rotors with meat left on them at this stage as well....

The top half with the throttle body is the same (rb20det/rb25de), however the lower runners have a larger port where it bolts to the head. The aac valve is different also....

would the brembos and rotors fit under 16" rims?

I need r33 front calipers (or r32 GTR ones), as well as some rotors to suit. If they come with pads its a bonus.... Let me know what you got, condition, and what you want for it. cheers B)

But what happens when water gets inside your calipers? Brake fluids hygroscopic(?), & your pistons wouldnt be as "lubed up" after a period of time, then would sieze if not serviced regularly... Ill stick with the grease still

Cheers Troy Looks like i need to use some Castrol GRRB grease... :Castrol GRRB A rubber compatible castor oil-bentone based grease ideal for packing rubber dust covers of hydraulic and mechanical brakes. Also ideal for use on rubber seals during brake assembly. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/multiplepro...ntentId=7000402

What kind of grease is needed? I think ive got a fresh jar of high temp. grease...HTB? is the one i got...its grey in colour. Will look later to find out. Why do i want to remove the dust shield?

I have noticed with the bigger motor i need to pull it up a tad harder these days Pads dont last as long either.... I guess id like an easy upgrade, and the way others have said to sell my gear, then go larger calipers and off the shelf rotors seems nice and easy....

Cheers Troy, was hoping you'd see my thread Im interested in the 324 x 30mm rotor with caliper offset mount...but would it need 17" rims to fit as well Troy? I really dont have the cash to upgrade rims atm, but 17" are on the list...or better 16" rims (still undecided on that path). If the will fit the 16" rims, tell me more Im after slotted rotors only... So as long as i use the caliper that is normally used with the rotor, you just bolt them up? The caliper mount stays the same? Will let you know mate, depending on what Troy can do for me....

Ok, did a search and couldnt find info from anyone whose done it...so ill ask the q's ive got here.... I need new rotors and new pads for the r32 gtst. I understand r33 rotors are larger, and that the r32 calipers are up to the task... So i want to fit r33 rotors (or the largest i can fit ) with some freshly rebuilt r32 calipers, using new pads...heres the q's : 1. Looking at the www.dba.com.au website, can anyone tell me whats the part number of some r33 rotors (DBA4000 series, wiper slotted surface, with kangaroo paw inner)? Or can i go larger in size? (currently have 16" rims) 2. Where can i get the new caliper mount to offset the larger rotor, and do i need one?...also how much should it cost? 3. Anybody got the workshop diagrams for the r32 calipers, so i can rebuild them? Is it hard to do yourself, or best left to a workshop? 4. How hard is it to swap the rotors etc, yourself?... :lol: cheers

mustve been something wrong there for a ringland to go in a rb20det....what caused it, if i may ask?

why not? what did you use, or recommend for a better fit?

Why do people have such trouble with these?? A friend, (Cubes), packed the spiggot with grease and used a 14mm socket (i think) to pop the old one out in like 30 seconds... Cubes and myself (lol...well mainly cubes..) changed the Rb30e auto one for a rb30e manual one in my car (rb30det) It has the r33 manual box running so as others say they are interchangable...

hcr32...sorry bout that

Take the rear cover off the pump. Then take out the impeller inside (it just pumps ps fluid to the hicas system.) Then use a bolt and block off the rear outlet. Problem solved...

I tend to think they only have value where the existing earthing system isnt working 100%. Especially if you have had the car resprayed etc...