Bl4cK32

Any exhaust made from anything other than mild steel is loud (due to wall thickness) Mine is a straight through system - ie no cat, no mid mufflers, no hot dogs. Just 2 x 3" Jasma mufflers on the rear thats it....Its very quiet, and it doesnt drone. Below is a pic of part of my system. It has since been modified to fit my car (was off an r33) The hangers are chopped and rewelded, and the flange has been cutoff and its now a single 3.5" into twin pipes after the cat. The system shown stops before the diff.

im trying to track one of these exhaust housings down for my turbo atm....if i can get a hold of one ill post pics

Ive enquired with Nissan how much for both a bearing kit, and how much for a full syncro rebuild. From memory its about $450 for a bearing kit, and about $520 ish for the whole syncro replacement. Most people i have heard only replace the syncros that are gone to keep the costs down. Me on the other hand, like the idea of a new fresh box. If i could find a workshop manual with the gearbox in exploded view, i'd do the rebuild myself. It has the GTR one in the manual, just not the rb25det box Anybody got a workshop diagram for the 25t box?....please<sniff> And in my case, no an oil change wont help as the box whines on decelleration...bearings ar rooted!

Ok, ill put mine in....im sure it'll be going by then. Itll only be around 220rwkw...hell bring on the shootout mode, ill be up around 239rwkw Shauns driveway is no probs. If you cant get your car up it (or Shaun) then its too damn low to start with ricers....

How much caster does the Whiteline KCA331 kit add to an r32 SK? Ive got one here ready to go on, and was wondering what the factory setting is, and what it is after adding the kit.

Remember that stainless makes the exhaust drone, and louder as well. My system, if made out of stainless, would be louder than it is now.

Mines made from mild steel, which is also known to be quieter than a stainless system.

Yes its quieter now with its straight-through system, than with the old single 3" exhaust with the cat. Oosh- ill try to get pics, but i aint got a camera

Yer im running a split system after the cat....well where the cat was After the cat its a 3.5" pipe that splits into 2 x 2.5" pipes all the way to the rear. Its got 2 x 3" mufflers on the rear of the car.

As well as the AAC there is another idle controller on the rb20det. Its located under the throttle body and under the fuel rail from memory...its job is to lower the idle when the car warms up also...there was a thread in the maintenance section a while ago about it.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...51&hl=regulator

id say the thickness on the drive...series 1 is the same as rb20det/rb30et and r32gtr

For starters, any rb30det is going to require another tensioner drill and tapped above the water pump (or the other method). I was referring to drilling and tapping new oil and water lines for the turbo, not the tensioner. Sorry for the confusion, just dont get too upset if you read it wrong. Cambelt is only $30 odd, and you can use 2 x rb30 tensioners @ $80 (ie $160 for the pair) But why should i waste my time if you are going to take offence if i typed it wrong, or you read it wrong....get off it mate, we're here to help everyone. Im no keyboard warrior, ask if you get confused, cos it aint hard....

The belt wouldnt be going the way you showed i think. The one below the white one you placed is the std location for the bearing pulley. If you did that you would end up with the belt running as shown below in my dodgy pic BTW - thats a photo of my motor just after assembly. And while Milton does know his stuff, im glad i chose elsewhere to get my motor done.... ps- for the price a series 2 motor can be picked up for, it will save a lot of hassles in the long run. Jeezus, its like $100 for a short motor...why do people bother using a motor you have to drill and tap, or modify???

centre conscole $20 pics please?

pm me his details, i need a price on an exhaust housing

Thought id add to this while its here R32 - Steering rack boots - Repco RRB033 ($23 for 2) Tie rod ends, fronts - Pedders PTE296.12 (or 296.14) The .12, or .14 is the thread size on the tie rod. These are $76 for 2

all good Make a choice on what thermostat u want, -genuine std .or aftermarket. They differ slightly in the way each holds water temps.

When were there any good lancers? Disclaimer: the above question is asked in a joking manner, and should not be taken seriously....

Do you have the inlet temp sensor? (screwed into the front of the inlet plenum.)

lol..your right it does come down to $$

Dunno if this is in the right section, but i was watching a 4x4 show on tv with a mate the other day and saw they u could fit air locker diffs (made by arb) Without having an engineering degree myself, i was wondering if you could make one of these for the old r200 diff in the skylines? For those who dont know what im talking about, it was an air compressor in the engine bay of the 4x4 , and u had a switch inside the car where you could lock (on the fly) / unlock the diff when going over rough terrian. I thought itd be pretty cool to have on a car instead of the ususal locker chirp chirp round corners on the street....

Thanks for the parts Din, Great guy to deal with everyone.... free bump

Id say at this stage November may be better than me rushing to get my car out there, then finding out i forgot something Ive got a stackhat, (gunna wear me motogloves too for that non sweaty hand driving techinque ), and a fire extinguisher... All i need now is some of that wang power

If petrol prices keep going up, it'll be an expensive day out

nissan is good for the vrs kit....cant remember how much i paid though ^_^