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Found a photo of a 33 with D1R's at 18 x 9 +32 which look fine Used that tool suggested above and seems the 8.5's will sit 10mm further in the guards.... Thats not to bad I guess unless I just get 9's all round Thought there was a difference between the position of the front and rear hub, but I guess not. Theres a fair few people running Identical wheels front and back that look fine Thanks for that tool pistol-pete, good enough to work out from the photo i found how it will look might find the offset for my wheels and check out comparison for them to when i find the time

Hmm not sure of current offset might check it out another day If +30 is flush for 9's then I dont mind if they sit 5mm in the guard if that's true lol

I have 19's ATM that sit flush with the guards but I want to downsize. Like how mine sit flush atm but know nothing about offsets other then the basics lol

Hi Been quoted for the following just want to know how it will sit in the guards: Lenso D1R silver 18" 8.5" Front + 35 offset 9" Rear + 32 offset On an R33 GTST Thanks

Anyone think the update (about 3 weeks ago?) only made things worse My game was fine but now I have opposition pitting twice on 20% race distance and instead of having my lap times each lap in the top left, Its now the total time and how far people are behind me? Seems weird I liked F1 CE and the ITV icons/timing etc. Much nicer

Im cool to wait, Not due for a service for another few weeks so no rush, They look and sound good. Sounds like it will probably pull my big end away from my con rod lol. But sound like they will be a good bit of insurance

rocker cover breather. Rather then running 2 hoses to your intake pipe they just run inlet cover to exhaust cover to intake pipe if you get what I mean

I feel mine roll around and smack into both sides cause its not bolted down lol But honestly... Ive taken mine out to take the car down the strip. And the only thing I've noticed is my music doesnt sound as good. Its only say 5kg for a 12" sub and box, while if your looking for a complete stripped out track going car, is alot. Just your average performance road car its not a big deal. I really dont think you'd notice the difference anyway

which hoses are you talking about? The vac line that goes to the nipple on the throttle body or the coolant lines that run through the throttle body? If that helps... Not a JJR plenum, but same idea I didnt bother connecting the coolant lines to the throttle body (on the top) and the Vac line is connected from the nipple on the bottom of the throttle body to the row of nipples on the rear of the plenum

PS3 sorry. Ah I see. Thought it would have been the same deal as MW2 (that was dedicated servers for ps3 i think?) but I guess thats not the case lol

Wide body S15's are sexy Best of luck with it What colour are you going to spray it when you have the money?

Im sick of connection drop outs in multiplayer I finished about 2 games out of 14 today. Im not sure if its problems with there server or just me. Anyone else having issues? I'm pretty sure there are issues with the servers though

Theres something on here about it anyway. If you want I can have a look which one I cut anyway Let me know If you need me to have a look

as far as Im aware its the green wire into that box that does the auto-lock but for some reason if you cut it you lose your rear demister? it removes the auto lock and everything else works as normal just not the demister, At least thats how i remember it. I cut that wire along time ago and connected it back not long after lol. Its become annoying for me and passangers. Only the passenger side used to lock in my car but now for whatever reason they both lock... Sometimes just on startup. Bit weird but oh well lol

Hope Kimi comes back, but I doubt it None of the big teams look like searching for a new driver So whats the Rule changes so far? KERS returns and adjustable rear wings, is that about all?

Thanks Paul. I'll do some more logging and see how i go

Nice write up mate, That looks like a very good mod to do Might have to give it a go Dont suppose you have any ideas on how to make the auto-lock (over 25km/h) from happening and lets you keep your demister as well? lol Either way, well done, great mod

have about 20 x 1/2 inch or 3/8 extensions The best tip I can give is that the top two bolts are best removed with a couple of extensions up the back of the gear box. There a pain but if you use the extensions there alot easier. Think it is covered in the DIY anyway, which as said will be extremely helpful. Should be in the DIY/Tutorials section

Yeah same conditions. I've observed the HC readings since it got tuned an know roughly the points it knocks. So we plugged the datalogit in and did the same sort of runs. Slowly accelerating from 60-80 in 5th usually seems to do it so we tried that as well as doing some 4th gear runs and 2nd gear runs throughout most of the rev range. Even went up some hills while doing 1 or 2 high load runs. The car runs great and like i said I've never heard it detonate even when I've got really high readings above 100. I'd like to do some more logging with datalogit on the weeked just to see if there's any knock to double check. But ATM I'm thinking either HC has issues or maybe my knock sensors are faulty. But to answer your original question yes both occasions were on the street lol What do you think? Youre the best person to ask I figure, yur knowledge of the power FC far exceeds mine EDIT: sorry forgot to say. I usually log speed, revs, knock and wtr temp on the HC. when I play around next time I'll try just logging knock

I only got to wave three lol but I only really had a quick go to see wat it was all about

well the H/C gives strange readings, sometimes I'll be at say 1/2 throttle doing 100kmh accelerating to overtake someone and it will knock its head off, Ive had readings up around 160, but more commonly get between 60 and 90. But theres no audible knock from the car ever, It runs smooth and perfect. Pretty sure we were logging advanced Knock on the datalogit and it was hitting 30 at the most when we were doing that. And that was doing some high load runs in 4th, a full run through 2nd gear and some playing around in 5th where id noticed some knock levels. Nothing to be worried about in datalogit but the HC quite often logs worrying numbers. He seems to think the tune is fine and the HC might be funky, so I've decided to take it out for now, thinking about borrowing another HC and seeing if it makes a difference. Hope that info will give you a basic idea of whats going on EDIT: Sorry there was 2 cells that were registering around 44 Knock (advanced Knock) on datalogit which were touched up, now register below 30, but they were the largest readings that I can remember

There is something not quite right about the game. Its good but I can see what other people are saying, Phil nailed it I think when he said its just something in the back of your mind that you cant quite put your finger on If I had to describe it but, id say it has a certain Tony Hawks pro skater feel to it. If that makes any sense to anyone? I cant explain why it feels that way but it just comes to mind when I play Good game but, havent touched solo campaign yet haha, but have had a quick go at the zombie mode and lots in multiplayer

yeah you shouldnt lose to much, but if possible take the aac valve out of that section to save losing any coolant.

Thanks Paul It seems to go a bit deeper then that though, when logging individually with both items I'm still getting more Knock on the hand controller then in datalogic. It got looked at yesterday and my tuner said it looks good, plenty of fuel and the timing is not as far as it could be. Datalogit is showing everything is fine, just when the handcontroller is in I get knock at random times. Ive got nothing plugged in at the moment and havent seen my engine light flash to indicate high knock levels since. I'm thinking the hand controller might just be a bit funny. The main points it seems to be knocking are low revs high load (eg Foot flat to the floor in 5th gear going between 60kmh-80kmh etc) Sorry I was a bit vague in my last post Just let me know if you've experienced this before. Im going to do a bit more logging individually with hand controller only and datalogit only when I get the time Thanks

Pretty sure you can unbolt the AAC valve from that part you've pulled off. Looking at the last photo it looks like the valve is held in with 2 inhex screws. Or am I wrong? Can't see the AAC valve that well lol. But see if what I've said will work anyway Those 3 hoses are to bleed air from the cooling system to btw. You crack the little bolt that's kinda in the middle of them all and run the car till all the air is out of the system (when you replace the coolant that is)