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Haha sorry I read your post a bit to quickly the first time..... I have basically just re-wrote your description lol but yeh it may just be a faulty bulb, change back to a standard dual filament brake light and see if the problem is still there if it is, try a different LED brakelight I bought one ages ago from dick smith that im pretty sure worked fine in the skyline, I just didnt bother to keep it in there

ideally it would probably be best to use plastic shrink wrap to seal it but im not sure where u would get that done? we have it where i work and have seen alot of parts come from re-manufacture wrapped in this shrink wrap and some sit in the yard for long periods of time i guess otherwise taping/sealing all the inlets etc to the engine then glad wrapping or plastic wrapping the engine tightly

Looks good, IMO the 33's need a bit of paint on the dash, its all to black otherwise I did mine about a year and a half ago in Frost silver. Dont remember the brand of paint but it was just from supercheap in a little can, its touch up spray paint im pretty sure has held up alright, nearly time for a respray because some spots have got some scratches. I couldnt use a clear coat or it would have been a bit to glary under direct sunlight lol.

Ive heard the Varex cannon on a friends car and its near stock sound when in silent and when open sounded the same as far as i could tell as when it was just a straight cannon. There a pretty cool unit, supposed to flow good but I dont know that much about them For anyone interested in original subject Ive had my X-force 3" turbo back mild steel system on my car for probably 2 years now. Installed it myself. I personally love the way it sounds, Its not stupidly loud while still giving a nice tone, quieter then alot of mates skylines. If I had to complain about anything it would be that one of the bolts/nuts that holds the dump to the turbo is a bit of a pain to tighten/loosen (hard to get a spanner on) and the exhaust sits a little low around the diff But there minor minor things that dont really worry me, That was just if I HAD to complain haha

I heard rumors a while ago that cops will have a sort of black list in there local town of cars that are repeat offenders bottom line, drive like a dickhead 100% of the time, expect to get pulled over 100% of the time when a cop is nearby but as above, all your car details are on your rego, cops have computers they can pull it up on....

im not the right person to ask about redline oils cause I havent used them lots of people think its the best oil, then ive heard others say its not designed for sychro gearboxes and eventually wears them but thats just what ive heard, im not an expert on the stuff I use Castrol Syntrans and I put some Nulon G70 additive in there to see if it helps and seems to be pretty smooth so far all depends how much you want to spend, Ive always used the Castrol Syntrans since ive had my skyline and its been fine. Get Castrol stuff cheap so thats the main reason I use it over motul, penrite etc etc gear oils

The ignitor is gone from series 1.5 cars as well im pretty sure, so that will not be the way to tell if its series 1 or 2 best ways are dash, front end (bonnet, lights) the instrument cluster on the series 2 has circles around all the warning lights, series 1 have all the warning lights in single panels if you get what i mean.... So if you post up a pic of your dash or front someone will be able to tell you what it is

might have something to do with the bulb being 2 stage instead of having 2 filaments for lights/brakes perhaps when u stand on the brakes its sending the power up to the light as its supposed to but then letting power trickle through your headlight circuit giving the items wired into the headlight dim circuit so not causing a full voltage through the circuit but a small circuit just a theory If that is the case but it may be a faulty LED globe

If your not doing track days and stuff, and if your gearbox is in decent condition you probably dont need to be running redline shockproof, its a bit pricey

I just put some Castrol Syntrans in my gearbox with some nulon G70 and its made it alot smoother. Its prob not the best, but for the price i think its pretty good stuff For diff Ive been using SAF-XA i think the stuff is, Castrol as well Never had an issue There are prob better oils but if its just a street driven Gearbox: Grab 4L, youll need most of it Diff: is about 1.9L from memory

new group buy for lawyer? all put in and get 1 million each back? haha nah shame it has to come to that mate but I understand why youd be wanting to push it down that road now it is beyond a joke

$100 isnt a great loss from me.... well im not gonna make you pay it back when clearly its not your fault Noone will put the blame on the middle man, which is you lol Just chill out, everyones fine with it from what I can see, in regards to your part of the transaction anyway... This is just giving me a bit more time to plan some brake work Now im gonna be pulling calipers off, painting, doing pads and probably new rotors so at least the delay has given me motivation lol

Nismo lips look much nicer.... and are easier to come by

yeh ive seen them a bit wrecked around the mirror and water leaks in behind them and rusts away the little part that supports the mirror, I checked mine on the 33 when i had the side mirror off once and it looks good so maybe its only a problem with the 32's? Id suggest looking down south, hopefully someone on here has found some cheap cause they are a fair rip off from nissan

I cant help but I can rule out most places here in Mackay. Someone with a maroon 32 searched for the same seals at several places and found nothing... except at nissan for around the prices you said I can double check but pretty sure ringing around Brisbane or somewhere might be a better option... Have you tried Nizwreck or something for some decent second hand ones? They seem to be a pretty rare part... if only there was somehting like rarespares that catered to import nissans etc

If your going to use waterless wash.... Use a microfibre cloth on it, a proper one would be best. They do work pretty good but dont just use any old rag cause it will drag the dirt along the paint. microfibre (Proper) cloth or nothing

think youll find that running higher boost will be a problem rather then the rpm I dont think the RPM of the turbo vs the RPM of the engine is as relative as twice the engine rpm is equal to twice the turbo rpm exactly. Boost creates heat through friction im pretty sure, there will be heat from high rpm as well but yeah im not sure your plan will work, though it is a good idea

Yeah thats usually the case but my last clutch was a bit of a surpise when it started slipping and even then when it was fairly majorly slipping (eg after a clutch dump at about 5000rpm) I couldnt smell it at all Depends on the clutch but, that was an exedy cushion button. My stock clutch before that smelt horrible when it was slipping

Hi guys Just in case anyone was interested.... I got the clutch in last night and have started driving it and its actually suprisingly good I was expecting hard pedal and jerky button clutch engagement but it feels nearly as light as my stock clutch! much lighter then the exedy cushion button i had in there before. And its pretty good in terms of engagement, i can do a pretty normal take off from the lights already Its still got that bite of a button clutch but compared to the last time i drove button well im really impressed If anyone wants to know it was: NPC 10" Sprung button Clutch (R33 GTST) Im very happy with it Callan

Thats that little hole in your bov that allows it to bypass a little or something stupid like that If you pull it off and have a look underneath theres a little hole next to the main hole that allows a very small amount of air through. think its supposed to make it less laggy when changing gears but who knows what the go is. My stock bov used to do the same sorta thing, pretty annoying Otherwise its probably just induction noise What I was talking about is under lower load not foot to the floor boosting

If your power FC is tuned right it shouldnt need to have extra settings for increased knock really But having said that im pretty sure the VIPECS can do it and they are starting to become pretty popular

Really? The guy I talked to was pretty helpful and I had a chat for a bout 15mins to work out what clutch would be best

Just ordered an NPC 10" Sprung button clutch, sounded the go and wasnt overly pricey Had a few mates with NPC clutches that reakon they were good so ill see how this one goes, Thanks for all the advice, ill try and remember to post how the clutch goes

Just doing some research into clutches Just wondering what power ratings some clutches are Mainly looking at NPC and Exedy for the moment till i get emails back from other places Car is 194rwkw atm but will be chasing about 290rwkw (Prob at the most) later this year or next year so probably a clutch good for 300-320rwkw? If anyone can tell me what theyve come across, what there using and what they would recommend it would be much appreciated BTW: Car is pretty much 99% street driven, occasional 1/4 mile runs for a bit of fun, maybe 4 times a year at the most It has an EXEDY cushion button clutch in it atm that has lasted me 2 years and has been a good clutch, has only just started slipping now and im not sure why, pretty sure it was good for 260kw and I have less then that but anyway anyways, thanks in advance for any help Callan

How hard is your pre-throttle body intercooler pipe to take out? Was going to say you could try the filter thing and if it doesnt work pull the cooler pipe out and just get a little 20mm (I Think is the right size) bit of pipe welded in I can show you a photo of mine if you want? think i just bought some flexible hose and ran it from the AAC valve to the 20mm pipe