gotRICE?

Pretty much anywhere. Just Jap do them http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=299&page=1 I used one on my old ITR. So if you get one, make sure you test fit it to make sure the senders clear everything etc. I cant rememebr what the bit on the RB block looks like, it might be fine any way. But the ITR the pressure sender had to sit in an exact place to clear castings etc, as they are bulky. Also as i found, the blanking off bolts are tapered, and once they are in, they strip the sandwich plate out if you try remove them So hand tight only my friend! Then crank it in once you know its all good and fitting snug. Oh, and thread tape on the senders. Mine leaked a bit without it.

This is why i was thinking of having a seperate set of rotors for the track too. Its piss easy to change em anyway. And dont the pads leave a sort of "surface" on the rotor? Hence bedding in processes etc? This way you dont mix n match. Seems to be the only way i can think of getting around my squeaky issue. And i use OEM pads

I wouldnt recommend the options where you block the PCV. From my experience there seems to be a little too much crank case pressure built up and the rings can leak. Thats only my experience, as when i plumbed back the PCV it went away. But its up to you, just something to consider. The PCV is only recirculating oil vapors under vac, and closes on boost. So in theory, it wont be affecting much at all.

It wont do a great deal. But it wont sound to shit hot either..

Going at it cheap isnt always a great option. Even fitting the cheaper RB25 front facing plenums seems to be a hell of alot of work looking at a few DIY threads. The RB26 option looks pretty costly. So dont bother

It seems to be the way with some people. They dont know how to appreciate each car for what it can and cant do. So instead, they just bash the living crap out of it to make them feel better for making a wrong choice

Im guessing hes more talking about the boost sensor end of the system. That doesnt flow, more just gets pressurised etc.

I always wondered if the block and relocator mounted sensors would pick up block temperature transfer too? If it was in the relocator in the "hot" line, it would only be out by a few degrees if anything. Hardly heart stopping.

No Problem. It also helps alot if you tap the pin out of the thingy that stops the door opening too far, but im sure you know that!

Here i found a picture from my old Integra Type R.. I know its a Honda but i used to spraypaint, and the vast majority of cars i came across were the same. And if not there was a plug or two just inside the car. That bit circled is the male end of the plug. If it has it squeeze HARD, or try peel the rubber back a bit to see it properly.

Look in the gap between the door and the chassy where the loom grommit (the rubber thing with the wires in it) is. Usually the door side is a normal loom type plug, so if you squeeze it and pull it should un-plug. The female end is mounted on the inside of the door, and the male end pushes into it and creates the seal. Try that. Or, just follow the loom where it enters the car to find a plug.

4pots suck for squeaking, thats about the end of it! I found that the best way to overcome it it to use stock pads on the street and swap the race pad over for the track. But then i came to the problem of the stock pads not liking the rotor after using them on the track. I get a horrific squeal on cold startups. So i drive down the street, stomp on them once and its gone. If they cool off to much it comes back. (IE Rain). My next plan is new shims/grease, and a seperate rotor/pad combo for the street and track.

There is stuff all change in intake temps with short bursts. Take it on the track and then report back. EDIT: Found what i meant to post to back up the comment, take the time to read the whole thing, its quite interesting. http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Intelligent...27/article.html

Dont know what it is, but it looks sexy as hell Got a vid clip?

I posted that link a few posts up.. EDIT: Similar link.. $2USD cheaper in mine Lucky me, im in the USA Im going to get a couple for myself when i go back to NZ

If you think about it, you generally take a boost reading post turbo correct? Or from the manifold, so in theory there could be a bit of oil vapors from blowby/turbo seals or whatever floating around. Potentially clogging senders? But agree'd, worst case scenario.

http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo.asp?nu...=HKS-4599-RA016 When i installed my Apexi boost gauge it said to install the filter in the line before the sender, but it didnt come with one. I think its a USA thing.

Sell the BOV and put a stock one back on, use the extra $ for more mods that atually improve the performance

I have a RIPS one Combined washer/catch can. Looks great in the bay. Best pic i have ATM though.. Only issue is, finding one 2nd hand. You dont even want to know how much RIPS want for them new

Im with you.. also use 4100 and have never ever seen it anywhere near that low, hot, cold, even boiling on the track. Id say definitely change the sender, try and aftermarket one maybe, and change the thermostat

My 33 GTSt has the exact same surface rust too.. so must be a 33 thing I dont look down there so till now id forgotten! Thanks! haha

Not entirely true..

+ Tune if you cant do it yourself..

x2 And it doesnt look more agressive. It just looks like a Skyline front end with two great holes in each corner.

Look yummy! Good work Your lucky they fit straight up, a friend of mine back here in NZ did the same swap, and his HKS kit had a shorter lower intake tube, so the Apexi kit didnt fit untill he got an OEM lower intake tube. Guessing you didnt have that problem