gotRICE?

I dont think RnR has anything to do with the spark plugs, its the AFM reaching its limit is it not

If anything the crack would have reduced the resistance and made it go better Good effort on finding that though. You made a wise choice my friend! Apexi FTW

i guess so.. give it a try! If it clears everything like the firwall and gearbox etc etc i dont see why chopping it back wouldnt work. You wont need a new flange if you dont want. Chop it back tight against the flange, then cut off the required amount and re use it. I dont know how much stainless flanges go for, but if you have to buy a new one, then pay someone to do the job, and install the pipe you probly would have saved $ buying an R33 one. They are only like $250 from JJR!

Wouldnt it depend on how much boost you want to run? Cant go much over 12psi on the turbo safely, and then the ECU runs out of happiness too. So if your looking at less than that, R32 actuator is key! Cheap and hassle free.

I think the reason people prefer Apexi over the K&N is the fact that the K&N use an oil that has the potential to stick to the AFM causing issues. Only happens if people go overboard with the oil though. Personally the Apexi is perfect. No oil, all you need to do is blow them out with an air gun, and if they are really dirty, a wash as usual.

2nd confirmation. One piece, No. Why wouldnt you ask before buying?

Sorry i didnt read the post properly, didnt realize you were talking about gauges! I plumbed my Apexi gauge into the Vac line to the FPR, so essentially the same place (manifold), and it reads 10psi perfect. Maybe there is a problem with the gauge? Tried testing it with someone elses? Reason i say this is because its a bit easier than changing actuators That, or someone sold you an R33 actuator. They are 7psi. Could be possible..

Would you mind releasing the Caps lock please?

So your saying you have a VAC hose going from the Actuator to the stock boost gauge tap on the IM? I think thats way to long. Plumb the actuator up to where the stock actuator plumbs in and it will work. Dont forget to remove the boost solenoid too. Take the solenoid out, plug the nipple on the intake, and run one line to the actuator. Whallah. 10psi

Im not sure about anymore, but i thought that Ryco used to supply Nissan and Honda (and someone else) with their filters. Kinda like Bosch supply HKS with sparkplugs etc..

Hehe "Genuine GTR Filter" Theyre not specially made for the GTR! They use them on all sorts of cars, its just a filter.

Im guessing hes taking about at idle.. as how else would you be totally sure? It will always spin, no matter what. It doesnt stop. Unless you key off.

Youd need ECU, AFM, Injectors and Fuel pump + Tune. $1600 wouldnt get you 25% of that, especially seeing as that budget is for the turbo itself.

X2. Theyre pretty good here. Only thing really is noise and external vented gates. OT, is 13 seconds what we call a 'worked' Skyline now? If so, my Stock turbo Skyline is HELLA worked!

Im not picking a fight with you so you know I have just seen filters 100 times worse than that. It just looks mistreated rather then worn and dud. My Apexi pod on my GTS25t had a couple of bent ribs due to me leaning on it. Didnt change anything.

Lol. If i had a GTR. Seriously, other than the aesthetics of it its fine. There isnt any visible holes or gaps in the filter element. But if your scared that the dents in it will cause problems, go buy new ones. I'd use a "used" Apexi over brand new HKS pods any day of the week. Better get a new exhaust too, theres some soot on it.

Theres nothing suss about it. Its just been sitting against something and the filter element has deformed. It doesn't mean there's anything wrong with it

Take the actuator off the wastegate, and open and close it freely with your hand, then you will be able to feel where it is sticking. (i'd try this cos taking the dump pipe off is an ass if it was actually a faulty actuator ) But if its a new dump pipe its more than likely the issue.

To keep the blue lighter you need to not make the colour thick, do really light coats.

Your not always on the track tho are you? So your saying that if someone pulls out infront of you on a highway, your doing 100km/h, your going to analyze the situation and apply to the threshold? i bet you jam them on because you got the fright of your life. But i agree, this is no pro/con discussion, let it go. ABS is fine, and if its doesnt come on, your braking fine.

Snap haha thats what i meant. 30 seconds too slow.

would switching the power to the ABS fuse work?

I thought you didnt have a dyno in the Bahamas? Bets bet would be a road tune i guess.

Problem with your situation is that the tune wont be perfect and would need to be touched up a little bit anyway. Or this is what he said to me when i enquired about getting one to NZ. Its impossible for him to tune perfectly it to your atmospheric conditions, if you know what i mean.

lol @ not liking electrical tape but using it anyway! Heatshrink is key. So long as you made sure it was long enough to properly cover the connection its all you need. And looks much neater.