gotRICE?

im sure that mod list doesnt have squat to do with "running in" a turbo.. hahah. And as far as im aware, bolt it on, and go for gold. From what iv read on here theres no such thing as running in a turbo. Just do it.

Im pretty sure using one is fine. Plus the aftermarket ones can handle more boost. Maybe they use two so it goess pssh psshh

The new turbo will be much more efficient than the stock one, so can produce more airflow at lower boost levels. Best idea is to ditch the stock ecu and get an a/m one tuned, or you could try a piggyback

Try put the stock exhaust back on and see if it helps?

Should come on bit sooner than that.. mine makes 10psi by 2700. Although with full exhaust.. not just cat back.

I think this was due to the comparison between the 1st ever R32 GTR and what was available to compete against. The 89 GTR, at its debut(sp?) had no competition on a racetrack. Im sure theres a video on youtube where the 1st outing of each model is compared. The 33 was still a great car, but it lost its edge against everything else. No way making it a failure. It was when the NSX-R, Supra, Evo's and even MR2 Turbos were starting to find their legs. Hell even the 95 Integra Type R gave it a good nudge on the slower speed tracks. 33 is still no slouch, that is just it. It lost the edge. It didnt get worse, it just didnt get better enough to keep the rest of the pack looking useless.

Seems clear? Bit wierd, if anything it should be making a tad more boost and run better.

Are you looking at spending large? Blitz LM is an excellent kit too. Just costs more. I read the JJR ones dont exactly "bolt on" with the brackets they come with. Do a quick search theres a thread or two about them.

Im pretty sure you need to have the BOV return modified to fit the alloy intake pipe. No offence, but they are rubbish for what you pay, and have to do to make it fit. If your running atmo venting bov then they are fine, but you arent so it might be more hassle than its worth! The BOV will still work, but if your running an AFM, then you might have stalling issues.

Cheers man. I hated that colour mind you and changed it to this: Bus seriously, you cant really do it wrong. Just take your time, and think about it. Theres nothing tricky or special you need to do to take them off. Just simple unbolting. The only thing that might get you is that if they havnt been off before, or for a while, they tend to stick. So just grab the breather outlet and jiggle and it will pop off That, or grab the cover with both hands. One at the radiator end, and one at the firewall end, and do the same.

You will probly hear it hissing... Why dont you wind the bolt out and put a new one in? You could have also stretched the thread, and when they stretch too fat they go bang, and you have half the bolt in your hand

I heard that about the alloy intake pipes not meeting up with the BOV return etc, but after you bought it Sorry! A friend had to get them modded to suit his.

Oooh oil pipe... the breather that connects the cam covers together! didnt think of that. Just slide the clamps off and pull. It will just pop off. I highly doubt they will break too.

I dont have a pic of the "extra bits" that need to come off, but i have a photo of everything i removed when i painted the rocker covers.. so ideally, its the same Its really not hard to remove them. You just take stuff off thats in the way. In this case, Intake J-Pipe Various VAC hoses attatched to J pipe BOV Coil Pack cover Coil pack loom Breather hoses Throttle body Throttle body can be left in place, but in my case, makes it easier to get back on without scratching the paint, and also makes it a bit easier to undo the one bolt under it Its a good time to do the coolant bypass to the TB at this time too All the bits needed to be removed (bar TB of course), removed: (minus the coil cover, but thats pretty clear on how to be removed) Once you unscrew the coil pack cover and coil loom underneath, your ready to go. Once its all off, you should have a pile like this : Go play! Good luck

I guess its always good to be doing the speed indicated, but would it not be easier (especially if its such a small error) to figure out via GPS what speed your speedo sits on @ 100km/h and just travel with that? Aussie is tough! NZ give you a 10% speedo manufacturing error @ 100km/h.

Sounds like thats a good plan. 2 months isnt too bad. Depending where it is you could throw a car cover over it too. Im about to head to the US for 3 months and im doing the same. But mines stashed at the back of a workshop, so will be covered to keep the nasty dust from cutting exhausts/welding etc away.

Oil pipe? You mean the intake J pipe? Just undo the hose clamps at the TB, and at the other end, undo the clamps on the bov, disconnect the various vac hoses attached to it, undo the two bolts and pull off. No tricks, just do it.

That sounds like my kinda loom

looks like a nice curve. Just a shame they didnt do a power run 1st. Im surprised they didnt run the car on the dyno before the tune actually, what it takes 10 seconds? Then you proceed with the tune, and theres your overlay.

Best bet would be the coil packs. Easiest way to test is to borrow a set of mates known working coils and try them, saves forking out big $ if its not the problem

They must be done tight! From memory you only need like 20 foot pounds (or nm i cant remember). Its not tight at all!

If you could somehow integrate the cup holders from.. i think 2004-5ish Commodores, the ones that are mounted side on, press it and it opens out and folds horizontal. Know what i mean? They work well

Both my breathers are vented to atmo and i have no problems whatsoever.

Couldnt tell you about the 34, But the 33 has the most shithouse cupholder on earth. Its in the wrong place. Makes me very dark lol

x2. I got that one too. I was smart enough to notice the '0' post count, so just deleted it. Its wierd, this is the only forum i have ever been on that suffers from this amount of spam!