Jump to content
SAU Community

gotRICE?

Members
  • Posts

    1,903
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by gotRICE?

  1. take a picture of the actual hose thats blocked on yours. not just a diagram. Might make it easier to figure out. If it IS that hose, then yeah, its your FPR, and it would be odd of it was. BUT some of the really late model 33's had a blank nipple on the intake manifold near that location. No idea what it was for, because it seemed to only be the late modeld. IE really late 97/early 98's. My 98 had a blocked nipple pictured: OLD photo, but you can see the blanked off nipple there above the big brass blank plug thing on the IM. Not sure if its that your talking about or something else.
  2. 86 with F20c conversion is amazing. If you know how to get handy with a welder and fabricating etc, then its a dam fun car. If you can find a good F20c conversion kit for a good price that is And what do you define as a "low budget"? Something you will spend XX amount over XX years? Or are you talking about a 12 month thing? My friend in NZ did his own 86 with F20c conversion, that thing hauled some serious ass around a racetrack. Absolute bullet around corners and in a straight line. Did 12's down the 1/4 with i/h/e and semi slicks. That, and like the above pic, you can get fantastic kits and rims for them. So if you were interested in that kinda thing: http://nzhondas.com/forum/build-threads/66...suspension.html Its a large thread, but the 1st post is documented with links etc.
  3. Yeah i guess thats the one Lith! White? Dam impressive car. Looks amazing too.
  4. I dont mean setting everything back to Zero, in one of the main menu's there is an option to reset the SAFC to factory settings. Better to do it that way just incase. Key off to save that "0" setting, then procede with the "before starting" setup, Key off to save that. THEN restart the car
  5. Ok i tell a tall tale slightly. It was on a damp racetrack Every time he went passed i was waiting for full boost, gentle 2nd, gentle 3rd spool spool, 4th, spool spool smoke smoke sideways sideways, back off. Put it into the kitty litter once and buried it up to the sills Cant remember the exact specs, but it did have a reasonably large high mount. So im guessing the lag, and maybe sudden power doesnt help? Not sure. It was very easy to keep up with him in my stock turbo R33. Most amazing thing to watch tho ever time he got on the power it just spun the wheels, made orgasmic noises and didnt get any further infront of me haha
  6. You will need to go into the menu and return the settings to factory, then re-set the SAFC2 to the correct settings for your engine. In other words you have to do the "before you start the car" procedure. Then it will run with no settings and be a glorified tachometer Dont forget once you change all the settings to "Key Off" the ignition to save them, THEN restart the car.
  7. x2. Friend of mine has one with a monster turbo set up on it, he can barely make 1/2 throttle in 4th without it smoking the rears up. Very cool, but IMHO very pointless if you cant enjoy that power.
  8. I fail to see your point in that post. As your now not disagreeing with me, just trying to pick a hole in a comment made. Regardless of how we interpret "well into 4th", me meaning i was in 4th for a second or two before crossing the line. Not just releasing the clutch as i crossed it. I was hard back on the accelerator. Go out to your private airstrip/dyno/drag strip, hold the revs at 7000rpm in 3rd gear, and take a picture of the speedo. The 2nd video CLEARLY shows that @ 7000rpm the car is only doing approx 145-150km/h.
  9. Well at the drag strip i was reading 13.7 @ 100mph, and 100mph is 160.9km/h, and i was well into 4th crossing the line. Probly not the greatest idea to admit doing 200km/h on a public road either. But i guess where our debate conflicts is at what RPM are you reaching 160km/h? Clearly if your shifting at the stock redline then id say i was correct. But if your talking about non-standard rev limits thats a different story. Both of thosae videos are pretty spot on at shifting at 7000rpm. If you went to 8000 then sure you'd get 160+ easily.
  10. Dont know what R33 box/diff your running but it doesnt make 160km/h in 3rd.
  11. Im glad you said "potentially" I put a Blitz LM on my R33, running R32 actuator and as far as i can feel it didnt make any difference at all. Marginally shorter piping than your average hybrid piping though. But still longer than SMIC clearly. My R34 SMIC on my R33 got heatsoaked to the point it would burn my hand if i touched the hot side, and only marginally cooler after a short spirited drive. And it just felt shithouse. So i opted for the front mount. Never looked back.
  12. Its at the end of the bottom radiator hose. You have to undo 3 bolts to get the thermostat housing off, and its inside there. Cant just see it hehe.
  13. Better to feel like a tool than have to spend $$$$$$ on fixing something IMHO! I just started my R33 GTSt yesterday for the 1st time in 3 months. I disconnected the batter mind you. Plugged it up, turned the key and it fired and idled perfectly like it had been driven every day. Very happy.
  14. If your worried about leaks.. then just recon the OEM one. Theres nothing wrong with it. All the bigger core is going to do is make the thermostat shut more often. lol.
  15. There is a bolt on the block, turbo side that you can undo to drain the block completely. So yes there would have been some coolant left in the system. But if you had the thing flushing for long enough it was probly just water.
  16. Id say thats a good start... If it was me, i would be doing a full system flush out. Drain the radiator and overflow, and if you can, find the bolt on the block to drain the block too. (there ARE pictures somewhere on SAU.. someone might have them handy.) I think it could also possibly be the water drain from the turbo?? Not sure. Run some of that anti gunk crap through the system, flush it again, new thermostat would be a great investment, and if you want a new radiator cap too. New coolant, fresh water and i guess you could throw some water wetter in there if you wanted too.
  17. I have a whiteline front for my R33, yet to install, i think it was 23mm, but solid of course.
  18. In a way, but the higher that is generally the lower the traction number
  19. You could say that if you need a 200step tutorial you shouldn't do it either tho, couldn't you?
  20. pretty sure its more of an emergency fan, IE if it gets hotter than a set temp it will kick in. The aircon wouldnt need it, see the MASSIVE clutch fan sitting there? put your hand infront of the radiator when the cars inside and feel how much air rushes past your hand heh
  21. If you'd switched the neons off you would have made an extra 90kw te he he he
  22. K106 Those bastards last forever!
  23. ^^ At least your honest. Most people used to do stupid things when they were young. And realize how bad and annoying it is later. I for one was wan of those little turds that thought collecting badges was cool. 13-14years old. Id like to add, that i only ever took a pulsar "P" and a Mitsubishi symbol And i never damaged anything.. i had a little 'respect' LOL like an honest thief. But then, i got my karma. 1st nice expensive ITR. F + R red H badges pried off with a screwdriver. f**ked the boot lid and bonnet. Have been egged too. Dirty broad minded person X GF... lol glad it was only a Poolude and she hit glass. Dont think she quite realized the damage she could have done if she knew how bad it was on paint Silly bitch.
  24. Cool thanks. Have never had a stall ever. And when i really think about it, it only happens at night with the lights on. I refuse to block the PCV again because of the blowby i was getting. I guess ill live with the ever so rare hunt. And i do also have an SAFC, so ill just tune it out
  25. You are correct, BUT the R33/34 Actuator is only set to 5psi, and the solenoid bleeds off an extra 2. So running directly off the actuator would only net you 5psi. Hence why alot of people go for the R32 actuator upgrade. They run a 10psi actuator. Do away with the stock solenoid all together. Win win.
×
×
  • Create New...