gotRICE?

So in theory with my setup (Post #149) at idle when the PCV is open, the engine is getting a little bit of un AFM'd air through the catch can breather? I do notice that very occasionally when i am parking (using alot of steering with minimal revs) i get a slight rev hunt. It happens so rarely i never think anything of it. But that would make sense correct?

I always wondered if there was anything wrong with the way mine was set up..? (i think i posted the pic earlier.. but here it is again) PCV is stock because blocking it gave me blowby issues and was getting smoke taking off from lights.. Returning it to stock fixed it. So wont be blocking it again. Both rocker covers are vented to Atmo via the large catch can. And the line going to the turbo is blocked, although you cant tell, it is. Just makes it look less messy If you look closely at it you can see a black ring, and thats a double ended bung i made from alloy. Is it absolutely necessary to keep the turbo line connected? I know it aides in sucking the fumes into the can, but air will take the easiest path regardless. And in my setup, that would be VIA the catch can?

x2. I did them once with a torque wrench to see how tight Nissan suggested. Its not tight at all, and you wouldnt over tighten them by hand i dont think. I have taken mine on and off for colour changes 3 times. No leaks, no new gaskets or sealant I just make sure the gasket is nice and clean, and oil it like an oil filter before you tighten it.

from memory they dont need to be too tight, something like 30nm? Cant remember exactly. But just tighten them till they are tight Then re-check them.

Its fine. I just watched it. Interesting.

Wierd tho, as far as i can tell the only difference between the Hi-Power and the Hi-Power Silent is the fact that the silent is stainless. The Hi-Power Silent only has a cannon muffler on the rear, and a pathetic excuse for a resonator in the middle

x2. And for images, i have posted these pics a few times too. For R33 Blitz LM. But the installation photos have 33 and 34, and the photo for 34 showed a little less cutting from memory. Cant quite remember though. As long as you take your time like fore-mentioned it will be fine! Trim it a little at a time and re-fit, untill its perfect. Clean it up, paint it black and it will turn out pretty tight.

I have been silenced. Im staying out of this now! Clearly i havnt quite got my head around turbos yet So please continue! Its only doing me good.

no. you will need to cut the reo bar, and a hole for the return pipe. its been covered 100 times. there is far and few that will fit with NO cutting. good options are blitz LM and the ARC return flow. blitz lm still requires a tiny trim of the reo but nothing else. not sure 100% on the arc.

i think you really are missing the point. he just explained true fact to why his twin n1 setup spools slower than your single setup. he isnt assuming anything at all. regardless of the motor. displacement plays a big part. In this case, hes not putting faith in .1. Your compring twins to a single. he was not. why do you think 10000cc v12 trucks can spool t88 size turbos and make full boost at 1000rpm? But if you then added a second turbo to that mix, the spool time would increase drematically because now the exhaust flow through the turbine has halved.

If he is right, then it will crack im guessing. And it will just crack underneath this magical product you want to put over the top. And in turn will lift the paint. If it was me, just go with it, you've done it now. And it will probly be fine! Give it a few thick coats of primer, and then paint away. Im pretty sure most people use regular body filler when they de-loom and smooth over their engine bays!

Mine got overwhelming heat soak with an R34 SMIC. They dont get enough airflow for any real periods of hard driving. But all the comments are correct. It will be fine at stock boost levels. A gauge is only an investment cosmetically untill you up the boost I only ever splashed out on mine because i thought i was getting a lot of boost creep. And i was.. so it was an investment on my part (turbo wise ) If you start track racing or drags, you will find the SMIC in-effective.

Yeah if its one of the blue ones JJR sell you need to use thread tape on the sensors and the blank bolts. The blank bolts are tapered from memory. So make sure they are in the correct place and crank them in. Unsure if they come out again. The last (and only) one i bought stripped the plate when i removed the blanks.

Do it right and take the bumper off. Youl end up slipping and stabbing your FMIC. Itl probly look monsterously hideous with the center cut out too. Kinda like what the stock turbo ext, wastegate Lancer GSR guys do

Iv never been a fan of unpainted CF on black cars personally. But fit them and see.. you'd probly want to fit them before painting anyway

umm WTF! all 4 wheels off the ground from a launch??/ Bahahah thats f**king nuts

Twice the distance from the middle to the end. I always thought detonation sounded like an olllld diesel hehe. Its not a nice sound, so if it does it, youl know. Try taking off up a steep hill in 2nd. tickticktick

I was under the impression that the alloy fins of the Intercooler conduct the heat from the compressed air, and the air passing through the core at speed takes the heat away, or cools them off again. Rather than the air just cooling the charge. And the cooler the core is, the more heat energy the core can obsorb. Work more like a heatsink... I guess im just being more scientific

I love the comments: YEAH EAT THIS SUPRA DONT f**k WITH DA MUSCLE! SUPRA KILLA! lol! Other than that. I have an erection.

Did you remove the AFM? If you did, you shouldnt have and the car wont run. Its the black thing that the plug goes into: Will look like the ones on the right. Put it back in and get an AFM adaptor if you want to use a pod like that Or get a vehicle specific kit like Apexi. Bolt straight up to the AFM

The only adcantage the bellmouth has, is that they dont make splits for R34's Personally, from experience i would stay away from the split type anyway. No end of trouble with boost creep, had to mod the wastegate pipe to clear the wastegate flapper, then removing the thing was a 6 hour exercise with a blow torch. Destroyed my 02 sensor thread too. Wouldnt risk it again! Have seen a few of the bellmouth ones. They seem to work great.

True, but im sure people are going to go buy an intercooler, find that the intake temps arent that much better, then buy another one. Nor do many people have access to each individual FMIC to do the test. And as far as i have seen on this forum, the people that do pre and post intercooler temp readings are far and few between

I always wondered why my R33 RB25DEt had that little black nipple on the manifold. Seems like none of my mates ones do.

Even if it doesnt, it still looks sick

For ease of installation the electronic ones are great! I got Apexi EL2 Electronic, and they seem to be pretty bang on accurate to me. And the slightest throttle gets them moving. IE the react lightening fast. So cant be bad. Id say if Nismo think Electronic are fine.. then why not?