gotRICE?

Personally i wouldnt waste my time on an NA Skyline. Much better out there. But thats just me.

And have the outlet pointing at the ground? 180 possibly what you meant?

Another for not buying a GTR. Coming into money, then spending it all on a GTR isnt ideal. Chances are itl break, then you have no money, and a broken GTR. I wanted a Skyline my whole life. But started small, Corollas etc, moved up to VTEC Hondas, then an ITR, THEN finally, after 8 years, i decided to take the plunge and get something with a bit of go, and got myself a Skyline. In the time of owning the ITR i got right into track racing and stuff, so i feel that gave me alot of knowledge about car control and what not. But even saying that, moving onto the RWD Turbo was a big step, and alot changes! Waiting was a good plan IMHO. Not saying wait that long, but getting a car like that straight up isnt ideal. Even you saying that you havnt had any accidents or close encounters doesnt make you a good driver you know. My dad didnt have an accident in 35 years, but i still think he sucks ahaha

A friend of mine recently did a before after test on his B18c civic with the Hondata version. I had one in my old ITR too, but never bothered to test anything. He has the Hondata S300 ECU that has all the bells and whistles blah blah, so used the real time datalogging to test. In his tests there was a 7'C drop in intake temperature at idle, and a 4'C drop at cruising speeds. The tests were performed back to back on the same day, as close as possible exact same conditions. He is still yet to test it at the drag strip where he claimed intake temps were reaching 60'C in the staging lane on a hot summers day. Obviously its a different story with different cars. But at least you can see it works a bit. EDIT: I did just re-read his blog about it, and at the same time the TB coolant was bypassed, and so was the cold idle coolant line. So there was more than likely a significant temperature drop from just that. Each to their own... i feel like an RB would be 100 times more difficult to do than a B series Honda... worth the effort?

I love how they make an appearance every year or so. I wish someone would buy one and use it. Do a before/after dyno just for shits and giggles.

And heres my stupid question of the day.. What exactly do they get blocked with? Gunk from breathers etc?

Wrecker

It shouldnt do, the brakes are alloy.

Could be RnR too?

There will be a marginal pressure drop over the Intercooler core, so having the Boost controller after the intercooler, should in theory be more accurate to what the engine is receiving. For example (example only, if there was a 2psi drop over the Intercooler) You set your boost at 14psi, and take that reading via the hot pipe, plumbed BEFORE the intercooler. 2psi Drop through the core, Engine receives 12psi. Compared to: Controller set to 14psi, plumbed AFTER the intercooler. The turbo would spin up a sneaky 16psi to create 14psi after the core, as the vac line to the actuator wouldnt see the full 16psi because of the pressure drop. Engine therefore recieves 14psi, so would feel quicker. Make sence? I could be totally wrong, but thats how i perceive it!

Sounds like they did a shit job designing the filter!

Theres a couple of installation pics on THIS page, and installed pics on page 1.

Double yew tee eff?

Trust PEII Fits GTS and GTR But other than that your correct i think.

Generally they change colour with age. So when you replace Xenon's you have to change both of them at the same time to have a colour balance. Of that could be HID's...

If the plates are anything like NZ's cert plates they are just riveted on. So drill them, paint, and re-rivet. Who would know?

Yeah thats basically what i meant. Aftermarket that isnt OEM. Its not really needed on a street car. All your doing is adding stress to the hoses for a few mor degrees boiling point. Track car it can be ideal. But more wank factor than anything on a road car

Interesting.. Only thing i will suffer from is horribly poorly prepped drag strips Not quite the money around down here in NZ involved in the strips. But hey, just a handicap eh?

Good to see your getting into it and giving it a go Good on you man. Generally you cant go wrong with a sump plug. There "should" only be one there!

It has something to do with pressure equalization. When the turbo goes.. Im not 100% sure, but i seem to recall reading that if the turbo let go under full boost, the sudden drop in pressure in the intake side of the process equalizes. And where does it equalize from? The HUGE pressure inside the exhaust housing of your newly destroyed turbo. In turn inhaling some of the ceramic dust from the shattered wheel. Im probly not explaining that correctly. But i think its something to do with that. Im no Physics master Its totally silly to say that if you dont understand why it happens. Especially when there are many people on here that have blown GTR turbos to pieces and lunched the engine in the process. If it was me, id be taking their advice and not risking it!

Maybe there is a lot of crap flaoting around in the tank and when you fill it some of it momentarily clogs the pump? Could be worth investigating.

x2. Generally 0.9-1.1bar. 1.1 is more than enough for any regular car. And mostly available when you get a Nismo/Mugen/TRD/Ralliart radiator cap.

Pics of the whole process? Im going to have to change me rocker cover seals soon as my exhaust side has finally sprung a leak. So i will try take snapshots of the process. But for a tease, of you have a pile that looks similar to this: Your doing ok

Not un-realistic if you get a good run and launch. It may be a high goal, but im aiming to get as close as possible to a 12.999999 with stock ECU and bolt ons and street tires. When im convinced i cant do any better only then will i try on some semi slicks. If you can nearly do it, then so can i

And hello... umm. I cant think of anything bigger than a whale.