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I agree with that. The weight is not the determining factor in how the car drives. But at least it's been established that the 32/33 are both different to drive hard. I think most T owners who are GTR virgins will think the same. I find that the nose weight of the GTST will be better handled if the front wheels were driven too. I can see how ATTESA makes such a huge difference to how the T and R both handle at speed. My GTST handles well but if i don't corner with skill it isn't that mind-blowing. When i've taken corners with precision (exiting the apex with tons of speed) it's bloody quick, but when i take corners willy-nilly i almost begin yawning. +1 That looks heaps better in retro-form But that goes for any car. How many Toyota Crapolla's and other Jap cars have prowled the streets with ugly kits and 1cm thick exhausts that have a massive canon on the end, sounding like a swarm of cheaply built bees. I once saw a 4-door R34 that had a kit so white and so square that it looked like a box of tissues

Thanks for the responses fellas. Yes i'm no expert, but i always thought the wastegate/actuator had an issue with building boost pressure. That's just the feel i get from driving it. It makes full boost but is lazy from low RPM's, i.e. it used to 'launch' when i floored it, now it's not that responsive. I can feel the lack of pressure from mid-->high RPM's too so it's obviously a small percentage of power being lost, but affects overall performance. I'm sure it's not a complex problem. I'm going to have someone diagnose the issue, and someone who knows what they're talking about . Cheers

Thought you might like to read this, it's an interview from GT Channel with Niikura Michizo (the founder of Mine's): And what about the old GT-R versus the new one? "In Japan a lot of people say that the R33 isn't an exact successor to the first-generation GT-R, it's not an improvement, neither is the R34 to the R33. Neither is the R35 to the R34. They have all their own characterisitics. Some good and bad. Some people like the R32 better etc. So all four of them would have different characteristrics." http://drive.gtchannel.com/?c=127&a=1139&sp=3

Are these jobs for a mechanic only?

Well the mate i was referring to owns a 32 and 33. He gave me advice on cornering in both, with completely different styles and responses from each. Even an 80KG difference is like a person stepping in/out of the car What about 150KG? I think it's worth mentioning.

Hey all, Had my RB25 exhaust manifold repaired recently (broken stud) and a boost leak resolved. But with the boost cranked to about 8-9psi i find there's no 'kick' and less response when i floor it. It used to launch hard before, but since the boost leak began and even after repair, the power has not returned. My mechanic said i need to fix my timing. I.E. get an ECU retune/piggyback/PFC? If it helps, my boost gauge under-reads at idle. It used to sit on -0.5 BAR all the time, but since then it's always sagged less than that. Even AFTER the repairs. Any recommendations here? Cheers

Bear in mind that Nissan have dumped their inline 6's. They are poorly balanced (weight-wise) compared the the VQ & VR engines and that's why they just want to understeer all day through tight bends. Look at some of the JGTC examples: the GT500 Supra using an inline 4, or the R34 GTR with a VQ rather than an RB. At speed the more even weight distribution speaks for itself performance-wise. Look at the damn R35 gearbox. It's under the boot! That said, the R35 is a bit of a fat sh!t.

WTF? That's amazing R35 is truly amazing, it's THE No Frills supercar (only $$$wise). Nissan has really made a name for itself against the Italians and Germans. Bloody good on 'em. Lol. HSV FTW? Nope, HSV FTL

Great comment mate, i guess you'd get a fast and grippy gtst for $15K but without ATTESA i think it's just a massive set-back. RWD will never get all those KW's to the road like AWD will Ok i'm scared to test drive a 33 GTR...i do believe that's the end of my financial future. Yeh someone commented eariler in the thread that the 32 is like a dart (a mate with a 32 gtr said the same to me yesterday) = aim and shoot, but the 33 is more luggy and beasty and needs a more patient & controlled driving style (esp. braking with all that weight) but can still rocket out of a corner due to quicker ATTESA. Maybe we could say the 33 is less scary because you can take corners more confidently due to better ATTESA and a weightier feel with less chance of snap oversteer? Wow dude, that's a beautiful GTR right tharrr When modded well they are a sight to behold, really, they're f**king awesome cars. Black really suits the 33 GTR as well.

Thanks for all the feedback, it's great to hear so many opinions from all the 33 lovers! R33 GTR owners= can you give the GTS-T owners here some indication of what they're missing out on, comparison wise? For both stock and modded variations of the models?

When i see the 32/34 i think = Japanese sports car When i see the 33 i think = Japanese muscle car Yeh i think us T owners often think/do upgrade to GTRs. It doesn't make sense to get a 32 gtr for $20k when a 33 Vspec goes for around (i've seen them for just under) $30k. To go a 34 for double the price, with only *slightly* better standard performance doesn't cut it for me. The styling of the 34 doesn't make me cream enough to fork out the cash. That said, i like the idea of a track only import! You can get an 11 second monster for a fraction of the cost of building it yourself! You can make your own 400R from a 33 GTR if you're that keen . Just bore it out to 2.8L, get a Nismo/Tomei stroker and cam kit, get N1 turbos, carbon driveshaft, uprate the fuelling sytem, cooling, oiling, exhaust, intake, intercooler, suspension, brakes to Nismo items. If you look around you might find original 400R wheels at a Jap auction (good luck). Sounds expensive huh? Guess most ppl that buy 400R's are just buying a collectors item, cause that performance can be attained from a regular GTR with some serious mods.

Whiteline you say? Thanks for the tip, i'll look into it I wouldn't have believed it if you told me Nah Phil said it when i went for a run with him up the Old Pac. I was on his ass WITH a boost leak (all that 200rwkw crap you guys said...maybe he just can't drive!) and softest damper setting. Got the exhaust manifold fixed (broken stud) and she's boosting purrrfect now. That's what i'm after! Thanks dude, slow in --> fast out I always tried fast in --> fast out

Hehe, heist? Me? I drive an airport shuttle Hmmm. Gotta say i'm not impressed with such a pissy attempt from the USA. They never even had time to prepare power figures for the release date! The release of the R35 GT-R really got everyone in a pickle. GT-R ftw!

If you want to see supercars go to Sydney Airport. The best are in Terminal 3 (Qantas) valet parking. Porsche 911's, GT2s & GT3s, BMW M5's & M6's, Aston Martins DB9's & Vantages, Ferrari 599's, Audi RS4s. And i've seen an R33 GT-R V-Spec too boys

Thanks for all the feedback fellas. Sounds to me like 'get the strut brace and have a practice with damper settings' sounds in order. Re damper, the softest setting is very stiff on the Nismo's. My mate (who has coilovers too) said it was real bumpy, so i'm *guessing* it won't need a very hard setting on the back to get the smidgen of oversteer that i'm after. Basically i'm after improved balance through corners. I know the best thing is weight reduction up the front, but i'm not looking to spend $20,000 on aluminium and carbon fibre to make it 50/50 weight distribution Have you guys got advice on improving cornering balance? i.e. Roll-bars? I also don't want to add extra negative camber because it's a daily driven car and chews tires as it is. ALSO: As a general cornering style in Skylines (the heavier ones with RB25 or 26) i want some comments. I found because they're nose-heavy when I approach a corner (i.e. 90-degrees or more and needs hard braking which sends heavy load to the front) I need to really focus on 'choosing' where to aim the car, then mash the throttle and watch it suck through the other side as all the weight goes back again. About halfway into this i'll feel a 'perfect spot' where weight transference has given the car perfect balance and gets me high The times i've casually sent it through a corner at speed and not really felt where it needs to be pointed i need to fight my way through understeer because the car doesn't want to curl around the bend as easily. Opinions?

The interior is too nice for that. And i'd worry about scratching the bonnet. It's on the road i reckon.

Thanks guys. Haha that's funny because my mates said i need a front strut brace asap...and you're saying take it off lol. I do need an alignment by the way, but i'll give the rear stiffer setting a try. I guess we all know Skylines need it because the heavy nose is a little understeery. I've tried countering that by using the throttle to direct the nose through the apex. Thanks guys, i'll give it a try before i get the strut brace and make some comparitive tests.

I can see by eye all the wheels lean inwards slightly. The handling is crisp too, so i'm guessing its definitely camber. I'm going for a wheel alignment & balance soon, i'll ask for their opinion on the fronts. I'd probably get the camber bushes if that was the solution, but saying that the nose sits quite low (the front lip might exaggerate that though) so raising a few cms wouldn't be a problem to save $$ on tyres. I'll probably post again when i get more info and see what my options are. Thanks Abo Bob.

Hey guys just asking what the best damper setting is for a bendy track? I've got Nismo coilovers which have a 1-4 stiffness setting front & rear. Someone told me set the rears stiffer than the front and it'll turn better. Is this the case?

I'm in the same boat mate. My front tyres are wasted on the inside of the tread, though the rest looks like new Rears wear more evenly (though completely bald ). Car is sitting on coilovers and has slightly negative camber, so i'm guessing that's shortening the life of the front tread. My mate said a camber kit will solve it (but i'm guessing handling will be poorer). What should i do? The car is only used for street, for now, so do i need a camber kit? Or should i just save the misery of sloppier turn-in and leave it?

Haha and how can you gauge that '5 or so' is appropriate? I think BKC is loving it, he talks like an online Yoda The force is strong in him, though his GT-R knowledge isn't.

Talk about throwing yourself in front of the one you love.

NSW sucks balls. Skyline owners, actually anyone that owns something of value to thieves, unfortunately need to take precautions. Alarm, immobiliser, where we park and at what time. Even then a car can still be stolen. Walking ftw

Ok BKC you win! The RB26 is a better motor

Death by tray it shall be