NZM.031

i can only imagine that "horrible door shit" feeds some monster air intake or intercooler... therefore it has purpose, so who gives a f#$k what it looks like..

boooo to channel 9.. i have stopped watching shows before purely because of what channel they are on.. i will wait and buy the dvds.

thanks kyle, funny you should say about the space as the stack happened 1 week after moving into our own house with a garage.. before that she was parked in a tiny driveway with no room or shelter to do anything.. having the garage and knowing that no landlord can kick us out definatly makes a huge difference, anything that doesnt belong in the garage is in the house.. you should charge fatz rent... or sell it bit by bit until he notices. haha.

my kakimoto is the same, its quiet as, its 3.5" but 2.5" through the muffler... its farking quiet too... tooo quiet. me no likey. me want loud... farking loud

i hate when you start to either a) make a list of a few things you wish to purchase for the car, all seeming reasonably cheap.. then you add it up and its near $20000 and you have only scratched the surface. b) listing all the mods youve done to that car on the for sale ad and seeing just how much youve done to the car and how close the end is... and then remembering how much the initial "to do" list added up to as the new owner hands you 1/3 of what the car owes you, then driving away in a bargain. c) spending all your paychecks on bits and pieces and scavenging for used parts.. because that brand new HKS 2530 kit seems soo expensive and out of reach.. only to look back and you could have paid for a kit twice over if you had just waited and saved up. d) sell stuff for 1/3 of the price to make a quick buck because you need cash now for something you think you need.. then doing the same thing a few months later to get something else.. ive learnt that lesson the hard way... if id just waited and kept saving, id have a really nice downhill bike, freeride hardtail bike, aprilia rs125, race spec kx250, wr400, a kick ass mini truck, and a comfy as statesman.. but instead i sold them all for whatever i could get as soon as i could get it because i had some hairbrain idea to get the next thing on the list.

*edited due to stupidity*

you should have a read of the "why do rotories suck" thread.. they arent as bad as the rep they have for being unpredictable and unreliable.. its all about calculations and driver care.. no different to any car or engine.. plus an rb26 rebuild can cost anywhere from $10000 to $100000. its easy enough to fix/reduce a rotoray. rotors can be pulled apart, have the apex seals replaced, and put it back together like a sandwich. they have advanced greatly with the seal technology and dont have nearly as many dramas. you may have to replace the seals 5 times to the RB's 1, but its not that hard or expensive and the rewards of the rotary engine make it worth it. making good power, and making usable power are 2 different things, you can have a ball breaking rotor that is on the limit and gets constantly flogged on dynos/strips.. or you can have a more sedate, well rounded street package that can have no dramas at all and is still ball breaking, but nowhere the limit of explosion. it all comes down to engine building, tuning, and purpose.

that will be sooo much fun... after riding in a v8 supercar, there is nothing like the grip that a pure race slick can provide... its like being on a rollercoaster.. it just turns underneath you no matter what.

i can dig that.. should hammer nicely. coz rb's dont have any oil control problems causing catastrophic bottom end damage.

sup peeps... nothing really to update... other than the decision has been made to respray the old girl.. its a bit slow at work so been playing in photoshop picture this... but with hand rolled verandah flares! (and probably gunmetal grey wheels, maybe some r34 gtr wheels with bolt on spacers)

i have an s14 rack to go in my r32, i will compare the two later today and let you know what i find with the threads and tie rod lengths. Tein have extended tie rods for such use, but you need their tie rod ends to fit. so youre looking at around $500. send Nigel a pm on ns.com, he makes rack spacers to fix this problem, its also offset to fix the angle of the tie rod on a lowered car to reduce binding. otherwise, i think Cazman has a Super Now rack spacer for sale.

yeh ive read as many articles as i can about the rb26 plenum on the RB20.. i will be doing as much headwork, and as much lightening and balancing as (financially) possible.. thinking solid lifters and big big cams (i know, its expensive).. so with a high high rev limit, and a high powerband, im thinking the rb26 plenum should be the go, as im not worried about bottom torque or street drivability.. the Zoom article showed the rb26 setup having great response, but lacking in the midrange compared to stock, but then picking up again later on. i dont know what turbo that was with though. the sound of big cams and 6 throttles will make up for a lack of midrange.

thats a fantastic effort... but the only thing that comes to mind is WHY??? why would you take a light weight and perfectly balanced car like the rx7, take out the lightweight 13b capable of ridiculous power, and drop in a big heavy cast iron rb30??

awesome... i was considering making the adapter plates and weld them to the stock rb20 runners to bolt the throttle bodies to... but your way is much cleaner and less hassle.. i thought you would have had to use 20-25mm plate, hence why i didnt want to do it, but if its only 10mm then thats not so bad. btw, i love your exhaust!

im doing it for the same reason and by low weight i mean, lower... as in, to the ground.. not high and doubled up over the engine.. it will be low slung and im hoping to bring more balance with the exhaust manifold. with the way the engine rocks when revved, all the weight gets thrown to the turbo side. side entry plenums are almost no existent for RB20... and the ones that do exist are too ricey.. i like the factory look of the rb26 plenum and the noise of 6 throttles... and it can support 400kw... my rb20 will never ever see that much power. are you not worried about having the injectors 20mm further away from the head??

what can happen is the clutch gets stuck on and fries it with the constant turning.. it stops cutting out and can fry the belt, the clutch, or the wiring. removing the compressor isnt hard, easily done from underneath, but you'll need an a/c dude to remove the gas and regas it. i have an a/c compressor that is in excellent condition, removed it because im making a track car.. i can send it to you tomorrow if you'd like... $50 posted.

my thoughts exactly.. thanks champ.

im considering the rb26 plenum... purely for low weight, how are you planning on fitting the plenum?? adaptor plate to the head?? weld plates on the rb20 runners?? PM me if you dont feel like sharing with everyone

haha, quite the opposite bro... i need to build you a box, and many more in order to pay for this mofo.. ive rearranged the garage so i have room to be back in production and have started getting supplies... Garage Debris airboxes are back in business.... nearly. being a qualified personal trainer... i am happy to help your zils with her little weight problem.. as you can see, im quite ruthless.. you just like the extra cushion she has.. im willing to reearange my thoughts if she wants lend me the keys and have another go at rearranging my vertabre.. haha.

hey guys, is the nismo powerbrace spring steel or just normal steel??

i have r33 control arms... they are straight fit. they can give anywhere from 2.5 to 3 deg neg camber, depending on height. the stock arms are not adjustable, how it is is how it is... and camber will be should be neutral at standard height. to change the camber you'll need adj arms or offset bushes.. alot of people are running r33 lcas as they push the track out 15mm more, allowing wider wheels, and more lock.. sydneykid says these hurt bump steer and doesnt recommend doing it, instead change the camber at the top arm only, or set the the top arm 15mm out to push everything out and then adjust camber from there.

wow.. this will be interesting to see what sort of machine this turns out to be... not many, if any, aussie R31s built for grip duties.. kudos to you for doing what i could not.. spend ridiculous amount of money in unkown territory.

could be just unfortunate. check the resistance between in the main power cable between the battery and starter motor... quite often it can burn out a little if the resistence is high in your starter motor. check the terminals on the starter ar clean and tight. check your battery voltage on cranking.. the average battery life for a new battery thats never been flat is 4 years.. it may have a surface charge, but on load it has nothing... under 9 volts and it wont do anything. to check if your alternator is buggered, just check the charge rate with the car running, mulitmeter across the battery terminals, should be 13.9 to 14.2 volts if its charging ok.. if thats the case, your alternator is fine. the clicking happens when there is just enough power in the battery to get the starter to kick, just no enough to wind it, hence why the lights and stuff stay on.. if he fixed the starter a year ago, then it shouldnt be done yet... not if he replaced the contacts (which is what causes the starter to click aswell, as not enough power can make it through the bad contacts to wind it over) auto electricians are notorious for screwing people though... as its a difficult thing to asses and how many people check their starter motor or alternator after it being "repaired"... most times its pulled down, put back together, bench tested, and sprayed black.

wow.... that respray really brings it alive doesnt it... dammit... now im gonna have to respray mine... damn you Roy, damn you and your bloody 32.

DJRIFT, i would have gone the R33 gear, had it been available, and had it been $20 , and it may be alot of work, but id like to keep the s14 stuff as its designed to work completly without hicas, im considering NP's Wonder Knuckles... but ill wait and see just how much lock i have before getting to that point.. you can see here that the s14 pump clearly doesnt fit in the original RB20 bracket the reason being that the middle section of the rb20 pump has a cutout i pulled the pumps apart, but internally they are different, so theres no swapping bits over the shaft in the rb20 pump is one with the pulley, whereas the s14 has a removable pulley... at this stage i thought the only thing to do was either make a custom bracket... or machine the end plate, after a chat to the old boy, machining the end plate was out.. then i found this. with a small amount of filing.. the s14 pump fits neat as in the alloy a/c bracket... 2 birds with one stone!! its mounted where i want it, and with a bit of butchering of excess material, it will be on a light weight alloy bracket.. or so i thought.. it sits a little far back to be of any use.. dammit so the idea is there... now the ideas i have are to make an adapter plate to move it forward 30mm, or make a custom bracket again.. i think ill make the bracket as it will be lighter and i can make it where i need it... so next question... to weld one up... or machine it out of one block?? cheers Linton