NZM.031

yep... thats what we do at the workshop.. nobody has or uses special brake bleeding tools has they are a huge pain to use, very messy (not something you want to be messy with) and usually cause more problems than they solve. if you are completly changing the fluid, then its easier to crack a line at the master cyl, and drain most of the fluid from there, then pump it through till the colour changes. but yeh during a service, we would pump the pedal a few times before getting out of the car, and just crack each bleeder until it would run out with a constant stream. most guys will have a 2L coke bottle, with some wire to hang it up under the car, a hole in the top with some vacuum hose into it.. a handy thing is to have clear hose.

Bit of an update. splashed out and bought some bits over christmas. one thing i have always wanted this car to be was old school... with a new school spin.. so the turbo choice both nostalgic, and sentimental.. sort of. this is a t04 that i bought off guiltoy many years ago, he had done a few mods to it, and then i did a few mods to it.... put it on my 33, and then sold the 33 with the turbo on it.. i remember the guy that bought it (hey mitch ) took the turbo and lots of good bits off it, so i hit him up, and sure enough he had the turbo in his garage.. needs a rebuild though. you can fit the inlet of the RB20 turbo inside the t04 inlet it has a VG30det rear housing and steel wheel, so my nice kakimoto dump pipe will still bolt straight up. the size difference is fairly substantial. now i may get flamed for this turbo... a 2530 or GTRS maybe be a better option, sure... but this car isnt about better.. its about being mine.. and i remember good things about this turbo on the rb25.. power figure is irrelevant, especially as its not accurate (old school bosch dyno, analogue dials).. it read 267rwkw on the 33 on 17psi boost... that was the absolute max for the injectors.. but compared to the 180rwkw it pulled before the turbo, that is all thats needed to go off... the turbo provided a 90kw increase.. like i said though, that is irrelevant, what is relevant is the way the turbo boosted and how hard the car went on the road... with 255 pirellis... wheelspin was evident coming on boost in 3rd gear.. nuff said. it may be a freak turbo, it may just be a good combo, it may have been a freak engine.. but it wasnt laggy, and made good power. another thing i picked up, was this complete s14 steering system... rack, pump, crossmember, lines, the lot. $20 off ebay!!! as ive removed the hicas completly.. i wanted a 2ws pump and rack... and ive read that the s14 rack has more lock with less turns than the r32 one... maybe so, maybe not.. ill let you know when its cleaned, painted and installed. ill be fitting it with new tie rods and ends, and some steering spacers.. interesting note is the r32 tie rods remain the same thickness throughout, whereas the s14 ones taper in halfway down.. there is a small weight saving in the s14 stuff... the pump is 2kg lighter, the rack is 2kg lighter, and the tank is a few grams lighter, being small and plastic. now to figure out a way to mount the pump low, where the a/c used to be.... cheerio.

would love to go but its in the evening, that counts me out.

haha... yeh, 10 big ones would cover my entire rebuild, with turbo kit. you think 10g for a respray is unreal... think of wrc cars... their suspension cost $30000 per corner.. imagine F1 cars!!

fair enough.. with a cage like that, i hardly think the extra few grams of steel would matter i will be doing the same no doubt... as like you... i have a large sheet of alloy, sikaflex, and no a/c.

what is becoming of you fatz??? you are off the booze??? and you are getting excited about some mongrel 4wd pansy mobile?? are you pregnant??

that looks neat as.... question?? why did you use alloy to block up the holes instead of metal that you could tack into place?? or have you just siliconed the plates in??

i spent the evening flicking through all the project R32 articles... they start at issue 44 and got through till about issue 70. with the td06 and the stock rb20 bottom end, they made 239kw, with full boost at 4500 rpm. with the td06 and RB24, they tuned it for response, keeping the same power, so it made 239kw but came on much earlier with the cams set up for low end.. it also had the ability to rev out to an 8500rpm limit, but the td06 was out of puff by about 6000rpm. the turbo was changed for a kkr unit with instantly went to 250kw first run... they tuned it and made 256kw, but boost response was now back to the rb20 state.., coming on at 4500 instead of 3500 like the trust turbo, but thats due to the larger turbo.. if it was on an rb20, it wouldnt come on until 5000 or later.. but its alot of work and mucking around to only have the boost come on earlier.. this all comes down to turbo choice though.. what is cool is that it has no dramas reaching the 8500rpm limit set by the tomei cams and springs.. if you were to go bigger cams, solid lifters, heavy port work, oversized valves, combustion chamber cleanup, itb's and gtr plenum then you would have yourself a nice powerband depending on what turbo you chose and what your goal is.... the rb24 is expensive, but if you rebuilding an engine as a competition or thrashing engine, then its probably not much more costly, but if its an all out track or drift car, where your up in the revs all the time, its probs not worth the effort and risk of splitting the bores. its a funny conundrum.. is it worth it to build an rb24?? if all it does is bring on the boost 1000rpm earlier?? i must say after reading and re-reading, its obvious why noone really builds rb24's... it simply isnt worth the extra expense... expense that could be better spent on the the head. if its a track car, probs better to do the head, get it really revving and stay up in the power band, using 4.3 diff gears to get the better torque, but if its a streeter and you want max down low response with a reasonable size turbo like the td06 or 2530, then the rb24 is a good option, but the rb25 is a much easier option, and cheaper too. i had my sights set on building an rb24.. but we will see... ill refresh my rb20 and go from there, if it doesnt spool the turbo ive chosen, then ill consider the rb24..... but if one was to pop up for sale... complete... id grab it shame you missed out.

true that.... not all jap stuff is to be taken as gospel... ive seen some horrid things done by some top workshops that dont run or idle but are told them has a grumpy race engine and its not being revved hard enough... ahh no sorry, it has a head that doesnt line up with the inlet or exhaust, and a cam that has soo much overlap that the valves are still open on combustion. i may be wrong here but i they have the same rod length yes... different crank, different pistons.. stroke may be the same but bore vs stroke is different, rb26 rev harder than rb25 due to the different bore vs stroke.. i think the rb25 is over square... so it would make more low end grunt off boost than the 26 off boost...

that bad boy was released in the philipinnes i think... not really an rb24 like the stroked rb20.

not forged... but over engineered and heat treated. check out the Sidewinder plans... then modify the rear subframe to take the jz and find a suitable gbox with the axles out the side... like a subaru or porsche. old boy and i put a 4age in one with a renault 5 spd box. i read your post, i got what you were getting at with the GT30.... my point being... why is a GT30 the only turbo you can use?? why is a GT30 on an RB24 any different in terms of legality as a GT30, T04, T51, T88 etc... on the side of an rb25, rb26, sr20, ca18, 2jz, etc. the rb24 part of the engine is just an air pump, so its now capable of pumping nearly the same amount of air as an rb25.. but its stronger than a stock rb25 and revs harder due to its different bore vs stroke.. it can, in theory, support any turbo that an rb25 can support.. the head is where the restriction is... and as far as i can see it... the rb25, rb26 and rb20 heads are all just a chunk of alloy with different holes.. a chunk of alloy designed by a man.. it was made by man, it can be modifed by man.. there is no reason that the rb20 head cant flow the same, just noone has tried to really push it as the $$ value is too great compared to an rb25.

anywho... back on topic... i just found some stuff on the nicoclub.com about the 4agze pistons... apparantly they are damn near bulletproof! capable of handling 300kw no sweat..

with 400kw.... the road becomes a limitation!

ill take that as a compliment. why are people so scared of engine work??? atmo and v8 guys thrive on calculations and mixing and matching this with that to get this. everything gets stroked and ported and balanced turbo guys just wanna push the stock bottom end as far as it can go, if the stock bottom lets go, they put in another one. rb26 has nothing on 2jz anyway... id be putting one of them in a go kart.

like i said.... RB20 haters... what part of making an RB24 is illegal??? its all neatly contained in what looks like a standard rb20. removing and transplanting engines takes the spirit out of the car.. rb25's are boring.. they are the middle child.. i would rather spend $20000 on my RB20 and make whatever power it makes than put an rb25 in my r32. a stock rb26 would tromp the rb20... no shit... but the rb26 belongs in the GTR... like the harbour bridge and bondi beach belong in sydney.

Rocco's Performance did the hpi one... they might be the best to speak to. 2nd hand 26 rods and crank are easily sourced.. you can use 25 rods if you want to be cheap... they are the same as rb26 but 26 are betterer. you can use r32 rb26 crank, but r33 is betterer.. then you can run the r33 oil pump. the pistons are readily available through tomei, nengun do them for around $1700 for a piston kit.. tomei head gasket for 83.5mm bore in 1mm, 1.2mm and 1.5mm is around $350 from nengun.. block prep and balancing i have no idea of.. that is my next research point. *i am in no way affiliated with Roccos, i just know thats who did the project r32 one*

"perfect" can be up to $10000..

RB22 = 82mm pistons (4agze, tomei or custom) RB23 = 82mm pistons, RB25 crank and rods RB24 = 82mm pistons, RB26 crank and rods Ben Ellis built one up for the HPI project R32... the engine build started in issue 44 (it has an orange background on the cover) i think.. the RB24 used Tomei pistons and head gasket, RB26 Rods, R33 GTR crank, and lots of machining the tops of the rods need a bump to be removed and the block needs to semi circles machined in each cylinder for the big end to clear, the crank, rods, and pistons need to be all balanced together. the bores needed to be opened to 82mm with tomei pistons or 4agze pistons. the rb20 has shitloads of material in the block so it wont be any weaker... but its worth getting your block checked over. i cant remember if the combustion chambers in the head need to be opened up a little to fit the new bore size. the people that say it isnt worth it are mainly the RB20 haters.. why do all that engine work when you can drop in an rb25 or rb26 for the same money?? coz you have a brand new, rev happy engine, with more low down torque to spool up a bigger turbo and still rev out... thats why! building an rb24 in reality is no more expensive than rebuilding any other performance engine.. the machine work is all done by cnc machines, so it doesnt matter whether its boring it for 2 thour oversized pistons or 82mm pistons. im thinking about building my rb20 to an rb24... but it does cost alot.. but it will be worth it.. its different but its been done before. nisskid... go for it.. you know you want to!!

SELECTA!!!

is there even a pic of it on the ground??

i have heaps of pics of gunmetal r32's with silver xd9's but none the other way round.. they are xd9's... the rim is so good, the colour is irrelevant.

i was about to flame you for getting +18 but then saw the 10"... should fit your car very nicely with a good stance. cant wait to see it out of the booth.

do you know what he used to get it nicely into the sharp angle under the vents. as suede marks real easy.. a credit card or plastic applicator or something?? or just push down with fingers?? hahahahahahaha... noted.... ill send the mrs, better yet, ill get the old girl to get it for me... i get growled at enough at home.. cheers.

forget the synchros... just put some redline shockproof in it and get a good clutch...