NZM.031

thats tops.. yep, thats what i mean.

im with him... get on the edge and push the boundaries... even if its slower, it will feel faster and make you happier, theatrics are better than lap times. i like to trail brake to make the back end loose and swing it out a little before the apex, then get on it after the apex, not full drift, but not fully straight. this keeps the rpm up and the car doesnt bog down as much when full grip comes back to the rear wheels. thats with a lowly rb20 though.

hahaha i read that... and then didnt even realise what you'd said. my bad. i usually count the "crew" in... as some have 1 crew, some have 2 crew, and sometimes 1 crew can make up 2 crew, so if you have 2 x 1 crew that = 2 crew, that = 4 crew.

ok so you want it fixed then. afm or sticky butterfly would be a good place to start... get out with some carby cleaner. slight vacuum leak. dodgy injector, may be spraying to much or dribbling out and flooding one cylinder or not spraying enough due to blockage and running lean in one cylinder. dodgy plug, same as dodgy injector but different.

FULL RABBIT OR NO RABBIT!!!!!! noone likes a tortoise, light throttle is for wimps.

my thoughts exactly! my thoughts exactly! not quite my exact thoughts, but i bet you are!

how wide are thems rims jimmy??

hahahahaha..... at first i was like "man, i need to really hook in and get the 32 ready for super lap"... then i was like "ewwww shell servo ladies.... epic fail!"

i disagree.... alot of the corners at eastern creek are almost hairpins, with a brake hard in, turn, throttle hard out. OP has much more flowy corners with much more variety and a bumpier surface... so the responsive awd cars excel... i think EC will put the high powered rwd cars in contention as its a much better track surface and the power can be put down. i was watching the telemetry of one of the djr cars that i got a ride in last year with warren luff, most of the time he was hard 100% on the brakes then 100% on the throttle. turn 1 is flat out, turn 2 is hard in, hard out, turn 3 is sketchy as its off camber, turn 4 and 5 is sketchy as its down the hill, but mostly flat ou, turn 6 and 7 are sketchy as its a bit of a dogleg onb entry and it feels more like a hairpin than a lh corner, but you brake hard to make the first dogleg then power around the corner and out, turn 8 is fairly flat out and flowy, turn 9 is hard in fast out, then from there its fairly flatout through turn 10 and flat out down the straight and around turn 1. but what idiot turns up to a race track and relies on power alone??

i think its been said in here before but if your not there to really compete, its alot of money for what is essentially a 12 lap track day. alot of the cars that will be in open class are unlimited budget time attack cars.. capable of destroying a set of 285 semi slicks in 2 or 3 hard laps, and will have spare sets ready to go..

did i mention its got a fark off loud alarm??? coz it does!

its got coloured wiring for about 2 inches into a plug, then its all black baby! and its in your price range! 2 remotes... all components, hell, ive even got the box!

few twists but mainly power... has a long straight and first corner, v8 supercars crack 270km/hr down the straight

stop postwhoring... you just did that so you would have more posts than me..... goku is the man.. well actually, hes a boy in that pic, but hes awesome never the less.

that is some epic welding dude... your hand must have been cramping up big time, atleast mine does when trying to tig. very very nice.

hpi did it the slits to the century, cant remember what issue though sorry... they just slit them, bent them up, then hi-filled it and filed back... it looked the goods. they also fitted a widebody kit to the drift battle silvia.. i think they just sikaflexed and rivetted the panel in place, then added hi fill to blend it in.. you wont be able to fibreglass straight the the car, you have to screw, glue, or rivet a panel in place, then hi fill around it, so no dont rub back to bare metal. sikaflx around the edges keeps water out and provides a barrier between the panel and the paint. if you want to do it properly, ive seen some r32 gtr rear guards (actual panels) for $350. you'll have to cut your panels out and get the gtr ones welded in, which shouldnt be a drama for a panel shop, but its a lot of work. have you got any pics of yours with the 32 gtr front and stock rear?? im tossing up whether to do the same thing or not. i dont want it to look like a gtr.. but i dont like most of the r32 widebody kits

i got a 2nd hand mongoose m800 if y'all want it... its all there, ive painstakingly followed each wire to its connection and removed it, damn pain in the rear end to remove, buggered if i know how to wire it up again.... but its all there, worked great, immobilised, worked with the central locking, made a beep beep noise, flashed the indicators, made a noise if battery going flat.. pm me if anyone wants it, going cheap.

i havent found anything with the racks yet sorry, ive been rearranging the garage over the past few days... the "super now" spacer is designed to go on one side only... you remove one tie rod, screw the spacer into the rack, then screw the tie rod to the spacer.. the spacer is 10mm so you dont need 2 5mm spacers each side.. it still has the same amount of thread wound in so its safe.. then you chop the 10mm off the end of the tie rod to get the alignment right.

theyve lost the hardcore, raw driving experience of the original gtr's, too many sensors, solenoids, gizmos and gadgets and less human input and manhandling required... epic fail in my books, i dont care if they run 10s with an exhaust change. and they are ugly as a mofo and as big as a house.

haha... r33 whales... good one... glavin! ive stripped a shitload out of my r32 already... alot which wont be going back in... im up to 60 something kgs with more to weigh yet. ive got the list at home but off the top of my head: a/c compressor - 11kgs a/c bracket - 3kgs a/c condensor - 5kgs heater box - 3kgs a/c evaporator - 3kgs fan blower - 3kgs stripping wiring - 13kgs front seats - 19kg each (replacing with 5kg each race buckets) rear seat - 7kg p/s pump bracket - 2kg s14 p/s pump - 2kg over standard s14 p/s rack - 3kg over standard hicas lines, valves, rack - 15kg rear wing - 10kg thats over 100kg there.. and ive got alot more to go. thats all i can remember, ill make a list and put it in my build thread. plus most cars these days have an aftermarket exhaust which can weigh 20kgs less than the stocker.. add to that a lighter straight through exhaust and a dump and front pipe. the cast dump weighs a few kg, as does the cast exhaust manifold. ive still got front guards, bonnet to weigh over gtr items, inner doors to trim, boot lid to replace, power windows to remove, sound deadening and carpet to weigh, more wiring to sift through, reos to trim, alot more weight saving ideas to think about.. plus getting what weight is left more centralised... but im not looking to comply with race or rally rules, or rego if it comes to it, just a fun track day car. so i think... if you are looking to comply with rules, and are looking to compete in a form of racing with some degree of comfort... then no, you will struggle to get it to sub 1300kg let alone 1200kg if you are a retard like i am and think its fun to have a pointless waste of money that is unbearable to drive the 5 times a year you are able to drive it then yes, you may even get it down to 1100kg... as is what im aiming for.

is sau going to be doing the corporate box thing again??

got pics??

its good insurance against leaning out, knowing that it can support 300kw, means it wouldnt be breaking a sweat at normal levels... its a quality part, that is brand new and reliable. plus it makes a kick ass noise when its external.

yeh rules are ghey...

so the car is for drift but the engine is a dyno queen?? for drift, a gtrs, 2530, td06, td07, etc, will all be fine. the rb30 should be able to spool up a bigger turbo nearly 1000rpm earlier, so a t51r might not be such a silly idea.. if garrett said your t04 wont make the power, than i guess they are the ones that would know.. but they make 400hp on a rotor, so maybe they dont know. you cant have both worlds, you either want a ball breaking dyno queen, or a drift car that you can actually get out and thrash.