Johnny

Dealers are a special breed, their aint tricks jst remember that behind their fake smiles, they are esentially retards who will screw you everytime. They know that if they sell a car, they get money and although you wont be back, they will have another person to trick in a jiffy. treat the car like a leper, get it inspected fully, then see what its worth....offer that and dont pay anymore, they wanna sell it then good. Make sure you get them to organise paperwork very fast and get the car asap so they cant go for a last thrashing, remove parts etc; even take an odo reading. Im only 22 but have experienced, 8 or 9 buys of new and used cars; 95% of dealers are all scum!

+1 ill drive my getz from a to b, running errands and not caring if soemone bumps the doors etc, a classy bmw for taking the misses out n going to uni so when that special moment comes along to drive my gtr, its worth every minute of the drive; i do only 50kms a month now....kinda looks like those low km gtr's might not have their clocks wound back afterall, well...especially mine wont be after 5 or so years

Any reason why 350awkw, can you drop that number down to say 320; also are u tracking the car or just a fast street car? do a compression test to see how tight the bottom end is then do what brad wrote below. try to make the power lower in the rev range and set the rev limiter to below 8000rpm to keep it alive for longer then a day or so lolz I do have a mate with 300awkw in an r32 gtr for 2 years now but he never revs past 7500 n dosent track it.

Badzzz huh +1 on black vs2's but jst in case ill go to my garage and double check mine lolz

looks like the auction grading system is not the most reliable thing. ouch, bought my vspec 2 for 4.3mill; could have had a nur for little extra cash but this was 2 years ago; thank god mine dosent have any rust.

would have to add an aftermarket ecu to get the most out of the headers - tune for 98oct fuel, more timing, better afr and you should get a nice gain from the large capacity engine; specifically low to mid range torque (maybe 15kw difference all through the rev range) peak power id expect 15rwkw or so but the drivability would feel better. Did the NA tuning thing on my old NA r33, i know diff engine etc but was a 10kw gain in the midrange which made all the difference in everyday driving.

lolz yeah the toulene mix was in my head before but had a few doubts about it eating away at fuel lines n other engine components due to me driving my car once a week (if that) love to hear about your WMI, please post a thread up on it n maybe you might jst sway me in that direction. Ive injected meth before, worked nicely.....whoops but thats a different story lolz

I wish you all the best with your car mate, im treatign my car very well right now cos of those stocker ceramic turbos and will, like you be doing a -9 swap soon; not chasing big numbers (anything over 270awkw is good for me) I hope you checked out my octane booster thread but it seems a good idea is to tune your car for 95oct on the power fc and buy some race fuel for a mix (like 30-50% ratio to pump fuel) For WMI, i jst dont like an extra system which can fail if you know what i mean (pump failure, fogger failure, tank running dry etc) all these things bug me n i jst want a nice easy fix like the race fuel mix. Im tryna find out whether you need a liscence to buy it, maybe give some thought to that idea? ill of coase update you on anything i find out, n every1 else who likes to add safety to their cars. cheers mate -Johnny

Thankyou for this reply, i actually went to autobarn to buy a drum of race fuel to mix a tank but they said that i required some form of liscence to buy it; now is this right or is the bloke at the store just a 'know-nothing, know-it-all' seems they had a leaded 100octane there for 75dollars/20litres I actually bought 2 addidtives; the nulon one and another best seller which ill try next time. with this new spark plug issue thats jst come up, ill be looking at mixing race gas with my pump tune for a litttle extra safety. any info on the liscence???

Im interested in buying a spare for my r34 gtr as mine has started to crack too, is it still for sale? Let me know n ill PM you to negotiate an inspection n price

Absolutely, your the type of person who takes care of his car n dosent want to take a risk even if the protection helps 5% n cost a few dollars....rather than the cheap bastards saying "it'll be right, she'll be right." your wasting your money; the bare minumum approach lolz methanol injection for the track, nitrous for drag strip, dilution of race fuel or octane booster on a hot day etc Im even thinking of meth injection in the future as long as the system is reliable. BTW check out da thread i made on octane booster which i tested

Hey guys, jst thought id share a little info i got from a little test i did regarding those 'octane boosters' anyways I recently filled up with a bad batch of fuel and im getting 'safe' but increased knocks then usual; normal from watching my pfc hand controller for the past year is 13-27 (max 29-30 on a hot day) With this current batch of fuel im getting 37 average at 6000rpm 2nd gear and 5000rpm 3rd gear. Info from pauls pfc faq tells me that its still safe but i thought it would be a good chance to test some octane boosters to see if there is a difference. Anyways I drove the car as-is; warmed it up for 15 minutes and ran on a stretch of road in 2nd n 3rd gear (2nd to 6000 and 3rd to 5000) Result was: 38knock in 2nd, reset n 36knock in 3rd. I added the nulon octane booster (the pro strength thing from autobarn at 25bux) and drove for 10 minutes to disperse the contents then ran the same stretch of road again; results were: 25knock in 2nd @ 6000rpm and 29knock in 3rd @ 5000rpm. anyways just wanted to share the info with you guys cos im pretty happy, dont take it as 'proven' jst wanted to share. -Johnny

Thankyou paul, i did read your excellent faq for power fc. My car was tuned very safely so the 6-8 knock aint gonna hurt anything, im jst one of those paranoid guys who goes overboard with his pride n joy. Ive jst done a little test with octane booster which ill post in the FI section, see what people make of it.

it wont run better, im sure of that. Ive heard you dont need the water line but it does aid in cooling when your giving your car a flogging and the turbo does produce alot of heat so its probably best to run it.

Dont wanna bag turbosmart but my experience with the first series e-boost was bad; it was installed in my s15 200sx and within a month began having problems ie: switching boost levels from 13psi to 19psi - back and forth as i drove. sent back for warranty repair, which took a loooooong time n when i finally got it back, they didnt give me my wiring loom so i had to chase that up which took another few weeks; even saying that i didnt send them the loom. anyways e-boost 2 seems to be used in many expensive high powered cars so hopefully their technology has upgraded, jst not very happy with customer service. Currently I use a HKS EVC 6 in my r34 gtr, also used an evc 3 and both are fantastic both in design and function. +1 for EVC - price aint bad either.

mine had a pod with cold air intake, catback exhaust n highflow cat tuned with a unichip...whole 78awkw but was a gts-4 so drivetrain loss was high. a manual with those mods and some good tyres + clutch should drop it into the 7's - add a nitrous kit to clock a high 5

Jst the ones in my last post bro, sold and swapped quite a few - some cool members on board here who like good old fashion swapping. we should make a sticky for games trading so we dont have to trade in our games at eb etc; jst swap them amongst SAU'ers

I timed my auto NA r33 back many years ogo n it was 8.3 seconds...expect a second off that or so

Ive saved all your pictures mate, now i have enough time for a nice long cry because my r34 gtr dosent look like that....its amazing!!!!!

Jst wanna say something about bp ultimate, it seems to be inconsistant in its quality as ive filled up twice now with it; the first time it performed well just like v-power that i had my car tuned on. This second time, about a week ago i filled up with bp and the knocks are going up; not many by about 6-8 at 5000rpm or so dont know anything about where the fuel comes from or wanna bad mouth anyone but jst giving my experience...im gonna buy a tank of race fuel from autobarn 20litres for 70bux and dilute the tank just to be safe. -Johnny

Hey man, npz i jst hope you get it sorted so you can enjoy your car. we didnt try anything with the gates as that could be quite dangerous, found the problem beofre anything like that had to be attempted. Could it be the turbos? are they new? maybe check to see if the installation was done right, gaskets etc or maybe its the intake rubber pipes sucking shut when it reaches 0.5bar i dunno just throwing ideas around now cos i have no idea goodluck bro, keep us updated

Pretty cool setup you got there mate, hope everything goes smooth for you! im doing the same upgrade soon n im gonna have my intercooler flushed to get rid of oil buildup as it effects cooling efficiency, cheap and should definitely be on your list of things to do. get the exhaust manifolds bored out a bit to keep the gas flow smooth n dont forget new turbo/manifold gaskets if your gonna get the cooler cleaned up, might as well check all the pipes for cracks and maybe grab some better hose clamps (like the crinkle ones) for better seal) and limit the chance of a hose popping off.

Hey man, i had a similar issue with mine; on the dyno getting tuned with a newly installed evc it wouldnt boost past 0.5-0.6 bar. At first they checked vacumn lines n found nothing so we thought it was an issue with actuators or the boost controller but after careful check it turned out to be a vacumn line, not sure which one but it gave rob from creatd ms a headache for a couple of hours. I remember vaguely somewhere under the plenum??? hope you sort it out mate, good luck!

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+1 i have noticed, wondered why this happens; must be an energy conduction issue. Ive seen (with my easy driving style) rises of 5degrees sometimes