Clint32

Whats your email. On Tuesday i can check if they are the same spline as s13 driveshafts but im 99% sure they are.

some power plus some grippy tyres= destroyed RB20 gearbox Any decent clutch will see out a rb20 gearbox, i have been running a extreme h/d with ceramic clutch plate for along time with 234rwkw and it had handled the power well. I recently fitted a GTR mechanical LSD to the rear of my car and took it too the drags after i put some decent tyres on the rear the gearbox has almost killed itself. My conclusion is 200+rwkw rb25 gearbox and over 250rwkw twin plate clutch should be used. Will be picking up my rb25 box tomorrow for $1200.

The turbo was recod and all up cost 1k but that was very cheap. The z32 afm was 250 and computer was 500 i think. edit: the turbo is a HKS one, ie aftermarket, was running 16psi

please make an offer on anyparts you are interested in

I have a stock RB20 Fitted A TO4e to the stock manifold with a turbosmart gate 600x300x73 front mount full 3'' exhaust 044 bosch fuel pump z32 afm tuned std computer with stock injectors made 234rwkw Ran a 13.4 @112.3 mph this was with slow 60ft time(2.3) as i took it easy off the line full ran with street tyres at 30psi. Fitted some sticky tyres and the gearbox didnt like it. So i expect a 12 second pass once i fit the 33 gtst gearbox.

Steve I said it had a z32 afm because if you look in HPI there us a shot of the AFM and it clearly has a square plug the same as my z32 one whereas all other rb ones have the rounded type.

i actually spotted the cefiro has a z32 afm so it must have some tuning done to the computer.

ADM the JMS ones have bearing in them, im guessing these lasted a few minutes of hard driving before you had problems. Later in the year i am going to make some myself using bushes and a adjustable rod in the middle, this would be the best way to do it. Im also going to make some adjustable upper control arms for the rear using a rose joint like the UAS ones.

They should be enough, how many bushes do you have?

Was just seeing if there was any interest Rob, im no longer that keen to sell now. Planning the next major rebuild for later in the year.

Make sure you have a cat converter in your car, you will not pass and you may even get a fine for not having one. I have a std 32 bov but i dont know if it will fit or not.

it does not have 400kw at the wheels( around 340 i think), and it dosent matter how much power you have if you cant get to the ground you dont go fast. After the engine there is a clutch, gearbox, diff and tyres all of these need to be 100% to get a good time.

The ones from Car Toys will just be bushes, wheras the JMS ones replace the whole arm. Bushers are all that is really required. I can get the bushes for trade price so let me know if your interested. What needs fixing the front or rear camber?

At least I got to break mine myself, Martin had to get someone else to do it. One of those boxes would be worth a few $$ id imagine.

So do you want it of what, send me a PM if you do.

Im a deffinate( well depending if i dont have a karting meet interstate). Did Martins soarer have a few problemsas well, didnt seem to be getting of the line even with nittos.

I meant get some good shocks i use bilstein and use the springs you have. You can adjust the height with the bilstein shocks and they will be cheaper than s/h coilovers. Caster rods allow you to alter caster. More caster will imporve turn in, up to a point, but makes steering a bit heavier. There bushers in the rear are important as well, i replace 4 in each side. I make the strut braces myself, i can email you a pic if your interested.

im guessing $60, would need to go on a freight company

yes i do, i use it to set up pipes on. Would want $40 to be worth selling. Have a good one with plug for 120.

$80 but what about freight, would cost a bit to melbourne

If you want a car that handles well on the street i would suggest just getting some good shocks (Bilstein) with some decent springs. The ones you have are proabably good enough as the shocks are platform height adjustable. The money you save from coilovers you can buy adjustable swaybars, caster rods, replace bushes and get the strutbraces. I have a strutbrace for sale, and wil be making some caster rods in a few weeks if your interested.

At the moment in tossing up if im going to do that or build a rb30. About 2.3L is the max you can i belive before you get into trouble. It should be fine to run on the stock ecu but i have only just started thinking about this so i cant help you any further. I know others have looked at doing this so hopefully they will add and help us both.

yeah i did 2 runs taking it easy and did my best times, the gearbox went sometime after the 2nd run and was making a large noise after the 5th run. Now dosent like 2nd and 4th gear or going into reverse. Bring on the rb25box

Doh, you just beat me too with a 13.44 @110, and 112 and they were the runs i was taking it easy of the line 2.3 60ft. The gearbox didnt like the stickier tyres i put on then.

The diff/driveshafts and hubs would be perfect to convert a n/a to 5 stud all you would need is the brakes for the rear. I also have the cast crossover pipe and stock BOV . I also have a front strut brace for $120.