Clint32

Matt i have two std rims if you are interested, shit tyres but i dont think you want them. I was wanting to get $150 for them so if your interested let me know.

I didnt think that there were any 32 gtst made in 94, the 33 started in 93 didnt it. I know there were 32 GTRS in 94 but i have never seen a gtst. Check the plate in the front cut and let us know.

Id get the dump pipes from the turbo and good front pipes first if you dont allready have these. If you dont have any other mods planned you its probably not worth changing the cooler but if you are going to change the turbos later then it is a deffinate upgrade.

the discs seem to be 30mm thick, and 300mm in diameter but its bit hard to tell with the wheels on, they use the same caliper as the 32GTR and the 33 gtst so if you could get hold of some 33 gtst brakes should be easiser than gtr stuff and some second hand discs that should do the job.

$250 for two GTR wheels, dont care if they have tyres or not.

Or get a modded GTST, i will be selling my car soon, makes 234rwkw on 16psi boost, nice to drive everyday, gets 350km out of 55L ( remember GTR has bigger tank). My mate has a gtr and got 220rwkw with full exhaust, air filters a tune and about 14-15psi boost. My car is a little laggier but is still fine for the street. It will run 12 sec qtrs soon and i will be selling for low 20's with everything done to it. Compared to a gtr that will be $30,000 and in not as good condition a gts is a good alternative unless you want more HP (500+) then a gtr starts to look the goods.

My old man has a gtt, so if i remember i will try and get the disk sizes in a couple of days.

You wont hit the limiter Rob, thats 112mph and you wont get to go that fast. Anyone know if anymore meets are happening after the one in april, as i dont think i can make it but may have to if there is nothing else happening.

Rob you wont break anything with road tyres on, and you wont stall on the line ( just wheel spin ) thats what the accelerator pedal is for. The only thing you have to watch is the clutch.

I dont think so, the car wouldnt go very well with a major boost leak. Just check near the fire wall there would be a small black box on the drivers side with a few wires and a small black hose, this hose has probably just cracked or fallen off. Happens all the time and is just there for the boost gauge.

Maybe, but wont be sure for a few weeks. I have to get my diff back then get it in but im away this weekend then the week before as pit crew for my mate so i may not have time to get ready.

How bad is the damage on the 33 Sam, guessing not very repariable to wreck the car. Im going to be looking for a crap 32/33 or s13/180 that can be stripped soon as well.

Ill buy it for $3500, i think you made a mistake.

Boostmeister it made the power without any special trics, and the dyno is not magic one either, same dyno same car with the normal mods (14psi, dump back 3", large FMIC, pod) 136rwkw. Add one TO4 turbo and wastegate, 16psi and a decent tune and 234rwkw. The 044 pump does help as unlike some big pumps they will flow a lot more with a high pressure. And they were cleanded the day before so it has to help. The fact that people say they are 270cc is very suss as they would be lucky to make 170rwkw as sydneykid says so they have to bigger. Someone will have to have one flow tested to be sure then we can have some info to argue over.

Im pretty sure Port Elliot Pits is closed (not 100% though) and there are only 2 kart mania places left to hire karts, all due to insurece reasons. This month is no good for me, hows early april.

a wheel balance should fix the shudder, but if they did it ans it is still there no idea. What took the time in the camber kits, the rear should be easy but unsure of the front. I would get the tyres rotated to try and save the them.

The diffs dont break they just loose their LSD affect. It may clunk a little but they dont break a little, just spin one wheel not 2.

Munro you will have to bring it on the next cruse. Just for the benefit of everone elso who dosent know you should list your cars and power for everyone to drool over.

I dont think they are the same, but i remember someone was selling a 33 one here a few days ago. If you can have a look at the bolt pattern or the drivesharts i can tell you if it is the same as the 32 one.

My RB20 makes 234rwkw on the stock injectors with a stock engine ( cams, cam gears, manifolds ect). So 220-230 is easy with all the mods mentioned previously. Now to make the power im using a to4e turbo, this is a old design and not ball bearing but cheap. i make full boost by 4500rpm and while this is a lot higher than stock or 33 turbo it is by no means a pig to drive. You can drive around all day (i do 400kms a week) and keep up and beat traffic changing at 3000rpm and when you want to go you just put your foot down and hang on. Just a point that a car with a big turbo will still be a good daily driver, it may not be the best for drift or a thrash in the street but if you drive hard it dosent matter. If your never going to race it or dont have a power figure in mind and you are running 205 tyres, stick with a stock type turbo (r33, vg30) and do a good job of the rest and make about 200, this is a easy reliable power up without the hassles of going the next step.

Nightcrawler whats wrong with no exhausts, before i went out last time we decided that if they v8s can do it so can i, so we made a nice 3.5'' side pipe just for the fun of it. But its a bit off a gamble who you run against, some cars look fast but are not and others you just cant tell i would rather chase a faster car down though as last time i never lost a race and it was no challenge.

Matt, that makes me feel better after my first attempt. The mph should be good for a mid 12 at least. What pressure were you running in the 540s tyres. I has mine set a 10psi when i ran with some but they were 225/50/16 so 17's will need a bit more. Are they going to be running a meet at the start of every month now? If so i should have all my problems fixed by then, although i think once i get traction my clutch will fry itself as well. A mate got a quote from direct clutch in Qld for his Gtr and a twin plate was only about $1600 trade, with a flywheel, they are supposed to be a very good clutch just a bit noisier than nornal multi plate clutches. but way cheaper. What was wrong with MattR's tyres, that they were diff than the front or diff on each side.

some remote filter mounts have 2 and some have 4 ports. It really dosent matter where you put the cooler. I set mine up engine - filter - cooler - engine. But it could go either way i dont see why it would matter. If the filter has 4 ports then the cooler runs both hoses to the filter and the engine has both hoses going to the filter. This way the oil dosent have to pass through the cooler though so i run it in a loop so the oil has to go through it.

to answer your original qusetion in a cat back exhaust there will be one 30deg bend then two other bends, these will depend on how the muffler is set up. I usually use a 45 deg and then a 30deg, this makes the muffler on a slight angle. The rear muffler will determine how loud your car is and if you need a 2nd muffler or not. If you fit a decent muffler(ie not autobarn special) you can usually get away with just the rear muffler and your car will be loud but still quite at cruse and berable on WOT. Stainless exhusts seem to resonate more in the cab than a mild steel system.

Are there any difficulties in bolting a gearbox from a 33 into a 32. Im sure the box bolts up fine and the clutch fits fine as well. Im particulary concerned about the speedo sensor and the tailshaft fitting without mods.