Clint32

The only things you need to worry about are pods and electrical stuff, cover alarm, pod filter and dont spray directly into areas wher there are lots of electrical plugs. If your bov vents to atmosphere cover the outlet normal bovs are fine. Why cover the battery, you will not damage it, trucks have them mounted under the chassis, do you think these are covered properly.

Try the used tyre mart, or get some prices on cheaper new tyres, i got quoted $140 for 235/45/17 simex tyres and joel recons there pretty grippy, so 16s would be a bit cheaper again. Anyone recomend a place to get new tyres cheap, im after some Dunlop FM901's in 235/45/17, the best i can get at the moment is $300each.

Lowlux someone who knows what there doing will not leave any dags at all in the pipes, look at the way the japs do some pipes with streight pipe cut on an angle and welded together. You should be able to weld the pipes with a tig and not get a single lump on the inside of the pipe. The affect this has on performance may be very small but i always do it properly, never want to cost yourself .2HP.

Just for fun one day i might ask them how much a new RB26 is, probably buy a 32gtr for the same price.

Joel i got a brand new radiator for my car as the top tank was stuffed, it cost me $320 inc GST, from the mob down the road who looked after me. It is the same as stock just has more cooling fins. PWR ones are about $650 trade price for a 38mm core full alloy radiator.

If you know what your doing you can weld alloy v/good, but not many do. It also takes a lot longer than tig welding mild steel, also if you get a small bit of contamination in the metal the whole weld can turn to crap, my pipes loog v/good (check the T04e RB20 thread) but it is harder to work with than stainless or mild steel.

i think there is a street meet at AIR on the 1st so i will hopefully be running there. Im fitting Drift Specs cooler on the 25th so he will probably want to wait untill the week after to go for a cruise. So the 31st is probably the go.

Each has its own advantages and dissadvantages, and after using mild steel for a few fittups i decided to use Alloy for my new cars setup to give it a try. I dont think there is any real noticable differece with the temps, and it is a real bitch to work with. In the furure i will just use mild steel for everything as most people want the job done as cheaply as possible, and if they want to spend a bit extra get them ceramic coated. Stainless i very expensive and getting mild steel pipes coated will be about the same price and should perform better.

To decrease the boost on a internal wastegate turbo you need more pressure, a bleed reduces the pressure holding the wastegate shut as it thinks there is less pressure than there is. You want the wastegate to open earlier and this can not be done as you only have the amount of pressure there that the turbo is producing. Hook up a little air compressure and let a small amount of air in to the wastegate line, that should work.

Miss Nismo if you find a cooler i could give you a price for fitting. I do cooler and exhaust work on the side at work, let me know if your interested.

what size are you after?

firstly there are many different types of intercooler cores that are used on trucks, like stock turbo cars there are some good factory coolers and some totally crap ones. If you get a decent core it will preform relatively well if it has well designed end tanks. However if you are aiming for high HP dont waste your time considering you will need to get it custom made up probably and this will cost a bit anyway. I have seen a few truck cores, cut one up once actually and i wouldnt even use that on a commodore, but i have seen some that would work ok. so it depends on the cost, what needs to be done to it and what you want it to do as to wether it is worth getting or not.

Thats just a temp sensor for the cat, dont worry about it just push it under the metal shroud between the floor.

Yeah it should be pretty good, the kit looks very nice at JMS. Sorry i dont do cheap and nasty pipework, only good stuff.

Formula ford is probably not your best bet, if you hit a wall or something then repairs will be very expensive. They are generally reliabel though as the motor is very basic, they are not all that fast and there are a lot better things to drive. Formula fords dont have very much grip and to go fast you need to push very hard and slide the car around a bit due to there being no wings/slicks. So unless you want to race a which is very expensive to be competitive look to something different. Try fingding a old club car to drive around a track or something made to hillclimb if thats what you want to do( or just mod the line with some trick sus and race that) You could also just get a Kart, if you have never driven one you will be very impressed with the speed and it will take you a while before you are really fast. This is the best/cheapest way to get a thrill and learn to drive a race car.

In the new HPI there was a article on a 2835, 3037 and 3040 turbos used on a sr20, the 2835 had more than 250rwkw with the 3037 only slightly higher but with a lot less low end response and the 3040 heaps more top but very laggy. It will be laggyer than stock but on a rb25 it shouldnt be too bad. You really need to get a turbo that will make the power you want at a boost level you want to run. You could get a 2835 that will be more responsive and make as much power as the 3037 it would need to run more boost. Driving through the hills shouldnt be a problem as with my turbo which only makes good boost a 4000rpm you just keep it in the rev range and hang on.

what size are you after?

Yeah it is just something different, depends on the price but you may be able to get a motor built for similar costs to an rb25(you would still need the box though) and at least you know the motor would be right and not break in a hurry if its done right.

still using the z32 afm.

What ended up happening with the stuffed VG turbo, get a refund.

thanks, may have to look into it a little further.

Matt im still running std reg and could get up to 245 with some more pressure but i will probably just leave it with this setup. I will probably get some 901 for the 17's then get a second hand set of 225/50/16 540's off a salloon car to put on gtr wheels when i take it to the drags.

I was reading the new HPI mag and read something about building a 2.4 ltr RB20, it said you use a gtr crank and rods with 4AGZE pistons. Anyone built/heard of one locally. For the price of a stuffed rb20 it would be as cheap as buying a rb25 probably with something a little different.

sorry lowest i will go is 450 sent to you, if i dont get that i will keep for later. They cost me 400 for the injectors, 120 to clean and replace parts and 40 for the plugs.

I want 500 for the injectors they have been cleaned and tested and have new oring and pintle caps fitted, I also have the plugs so you can wire them. I may be interested in the reg or Greddy filter kit, have you got pics of it. Where are you located?