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Clint32

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Everything posted by Clint32

  1. You need to use the relay no matter how it is switched on so it gets a good power supply. I tried to use a temp sensor to activate it but the probe wouldnt go down the radiator hose so i just fitted a switch.
  2. Have you read all the terms/condition of these warranties. You have to have your car services by approved people and send them the paperwork all buy certain dates. And then there is not much even covered buy them in the end. Deffinately dont waste your time. If your buying a car and they say it comes with a warranty, tell them you dont want it and to take $1000 off the price. Remember you are buying a nissan.
  3. i offer $500, will need to be blasted and powder coated.
  4. steve the fans come with everything you need to fit them all you need to do is give the realy power to switch the fans on, so i used my own switch. in not using any shroud as i made a aluminium mount for them to bolt to, i didnt like the idea of poking holes through the radiator. the temp gets up to 80deg then i switch the fans on, the temp will go up to 90deg on really hot days and after you give it a bit of a thrash. I dont think i would like to give it a thrash on a 35deg + day unless i got a new radiator ($650 PWR alloy one) You can get twin fans mounted together with a shroud from repco as well but it was twice as much to buy.
  5. Steve i fitted 2 x 12'' fans to mine to make the cooler piping better. With a large FMIC the temp goes up a bit in the heat but not too hot. Just a tip, go to repco and get a price on 11'' fans, these are made by davies craig and are actually a 11'' fan which davies craig sell as 12'' (they measure the outside not the fan size), the repco ones were a lot cheaper. cost me $160 or so for both. Still working on the temp issue at the moment they are on a switch. But the fan infront of the rad switches on at about 90deg and is activated by the sensor in the radiator. Im looking at getting a lower temp switch to go in the radiator and using this to give the realy for the fans power.
  6. Not running at AIR this weekend then Munro?
  7. I have one, but it has a slightly bigger thread than the nissan one, looks like your pics
  8. I dont have a tein one but i am starting to make my own and could make you just one if you like. Sell a set for 250 so would want 125 for one.
  9. i have spoken to someone who got good results when he did a rb25 in a vl. Was done interstate and cost about $100 each to do.
  10. what is the model number, anything over 230rwkw or so and i would always go for the 044 pump.
  11. If your injectors are big enough i would be looking toward the pump as the cause of the lean off in the top end. All the reg does is regulate the pressure, and more pressure will obviously mean more fuel, if you have 610cc injectors they should be plenty at stock pressure. If the pump cant keep up the pressure will drop no matter what reg you have.
  12. You can fit a 600x300x70mm cooler into the front of a 32 without too much trouble. But you probably dont need to go that big. Loots of trimming of the bumper is required and you need to cut some metal from the base of the bumper support. The bonnet latch dosent need to be modified but you may need to cut the support for it depending where you mount the cooler. Use 2.5'' pipes, these are the best easies to work with. For the mount i use the three bolts on the bottom of the front of the chassis where the drip tray usually bolts. This allows you to run a piece of metal parallel with the cooler to mount off of.
  13. I will be in melbourn in a month if you can wait, but i still want $50 for it.
  14. i was 17(nearly 18) when i got my l32, 2.5 years ago. You just have to very carefull or else it will bite you hard. If you have never driven anything cars karts etc and are learning to drive dont bother untill you are a confident driver, not just someone who is capable of sitting behing the wheel.
  15. I have a stock 32 gts wing in burgendy, $50
  16. There are a lot of bushes in the car and it is probably not worth changing them all. In the rear on each side there is the lower control arm, and the two upper arms, thats 4 bushes a side. There is also 2 in the hub but i normally dont change these unless it is a race car. In the front there is the one in the caster rod, the ones in the front camber adjusters and the lower arm. The caster rod one is the one that most needs changing, the others are not as important. I would start by changing the caster rod and the rear suspension arms and some rear subframe rings. The parts will cost about $300 and im guessing about $200 for fitting plus a wheel align.
  17. I can get whiteline bushes at good prices so if you know what you need i can work out something. The bushes some of the play out that you will get with the rubber ones, make the handling a lot more responsive, probably only really worth doing if you do the swaybars as well to get the best results.
  18. Maybe i will have to take my car down, its got the full whiteline kit without a wheel allignment, handles sweet but it could probably be a lot better.
  19. They will bolt on to the manifolds, but none of the other stuff, oil/water lines etc will line up, not woth the hassle, 2530's wouldnt end up much more expensive in the end.
  20. what else are you after
  21. all you do is leave the nut level with the end of the thread, then pull on the wheel and get a mate to hit the shaft with a brass punch lightly, this will free the spline shaft.
  22. Munro has pretty fast GTR, ran 9.66 last weekend at the four six and rotor nats. I have a fairly modded 32 gtst, makes 234rwkw, ran 13.6 but will do 12's soon Also we have a couple of chicks in the SA section that drive 32's
  23. sorry its been one of those weeks
  24. Its time to dispose of some unwanted parts i have lying around. 2x stock 32 gtst wheels in good contition crap tyres $150 32 afm with plug good working order $150 stock turbo $300 stock exhaust manifold $100 stock inlet manifold and runners ( the top half has been cut for a pipe to be welded on so the throttle body is at the front, never got around to finish it) $200 stock intercooler and pipes $100 front strut brace $130 stock throttle body no CAS $40 rear wing painted burgendy $40 have many other parts if you are looking for something a may be able to help.
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