GTScotT

Your motor is completely stock right? Never had the head off? If so they might be ok. They are meant to be a full drop in... I think Trev and Martin have suffered because their motors have been apart in the past, with surfaces skimmed. Like mine also. It doesnt mean Tomei get the lobe centre spot on though... It might still be off, which is why they advertise specs so we can work it out.

GOODLUCK KFC

You have it completely the wrong way round. Make phone calls and people will sell you whats on their shelf, or what benefits them. Read a forum and you will get HARD FACTUAL EXPERIENCE from people who have tried the turbo and can tell you what to expect. As Scotty said you can expect the GTX will make more power than the GT when pushing higher boost figures. For example if you plan to run up to 30psi you would want the GTX, under 25 (closer to 20) you would want the GT. Bare in mind that the fuel you run will probably decide how much boost is going to be used. 98ron 20psi, E85 25-30psi. HOWEVER, its been noted that the GT boogy a little nicer with less boost. It has also been noted that the GTX range pick up a bit more lag for the same model number from GT>GTX. The difference between the turbos is ONLY the compressor wheel and the compressor housing. Both are the same dual ball bearing core and have the same rear housing options. You would want a .82 to have it boogy on an RB25. Please refer to this thread for further detail: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/344089-garrett-medium-frame-gtx-turbos/page-67?hl=%2Bgarrett+%2Bgtx#entry6595146

Agree. If I were running a NEO at your level I would swap it out for a stocker once it failed. If I had more than 2 let go I would consider building from there. In the end you could go through 4 or 5 stockers before you reach the cost of building one properly.

In my case it was a fresh motor and I had nothing to compare it to. The tuner reckons its doing what it should but you never know, its possible there is more to be had. Despite the fact they are zerod to factory spec off the gears/chain and there is ZERO vacuum leaks in my setup I still lost a fair bit of idle vacuum going to these cams, and they are only 256s.

Keen on results for the SLSS2 results stao, if it does what I hope it will probably end up on my SR. Martin you have me worried about my own poncams.. while I am 100% certain the cams are at least dialed where they are meant to be, it doesnt mean the lobe centre isnt whack like yours. Le sigh, more work.

Yellow pages says the business still exists. Funny to hear what happened to him in the end.. I have a few things in common with him.. A name, bit of an attitude problem and around the same time for the same reason we both... Well I wont say. Hi, I'm Scott.

LMAO that white thing is insane. Poor little RB25 hahaha

unopened to me is about strength.. while cams are a bolt on almost anyone can do. the real money is in building the bottom end.

Don't buy the chromed pipes... they are cheap junk. Buy the raw alloy or stainless pipes and polish them. The finish will last ages and if it ever stars to look dull you can just re polish them. I have one of those cheap pipes myself, you will find the material is just crap which causes it to do that. If you look inside the pipe there will be scale and pock marks in there too.

Lol what is with the west coast.. just because the place is big doesn't mean you all need to live far apart :-P

Who's local to you man? Surely someone who's done it before can stop by and sink a few while you guys work it out?

However the stock 33 turbo will probably shit itself pretty quick, so if you do decide to buy injectors rather than keep the stockers make sure you buy big enough to accommodate for whatever will replace the glass 33 turbo. If you do decide to stay with stock injectors (which will be enough as Roy said) you have nothing to lose.

Done this before also, will be fine. No issue at all on a 2wd car. Try to find a size that doesnt stretch too far on the bigger rim or bulge too far on the smaller. Will look OK too.

Sounds good mate, post your results when the time comes. Am keen to hear you sort it out.

I'm not sure about ACL rings but its well known ACL race bearings are a good staple item for building a Nissan. Personally if the motor is getting rings just spend the money on a set of pistons.. The added compression will make it nicer to drive on the road.

lol dangerous sounds too modest

Sorry guys this needs to be the 16mm sleeve, my bad.

LOL @ 4A project. Gonna keep the supercharger too and make it twin charged ?? I'm not fussed for stealth on my 200 as its not a daily, but I do appreciate a well presented stealth bay.

Looks schmick mate I like what you've done with it. Very tidy.

Fwiw certain trucks use the same oil for the box as they do for the motor (5w30) so the motor oil suggestion isn't a bad thing and can help. Personally I would take it back. You paid good money and got a shit gearbox.

I've got a couple of VNT turbos at home which have shit their control boxes. The control box mounts directly to the exhaust housing, so I don't know how it could have failed the part number is GT3063KLV but they are more so 28 sized on the turbine side and only 48 trim on the comp. Has a .78 VNT rear though, which I think could be useful in an aftermarket application, high flowed to a GT30 size core and using a boost driven actuator to open the VNT once a certain boost pressure is reached. its got a round entry also so I could probably make an adapter for my tial flanged manifold

WTB an OS Giken release sleeve (bearing carrier) need the 20mm item for the TS2BD clutch kit the 20mm meaures from where the release bearing sits to where the clutch fork contacts (end of the sleeved surface to tabs for fork) If anyone has one of these they don't need please PM me

7.8 degrees... That is insane. its been a while since I fiddled with an RB but can't you take off the back plate which goes between the rocker covers and the gears which will give you access to the back of the intake gear? Just working off memory so feel free to tell me I'm way off. Sounds like you have big news to come :-)

im guessing you cant access all the bolts easily? maybe undo them all and leave them finger tight then lock it with 1 or 2 of the bolts, remove the gear to lock them all then re-install and check with degree wheel again. Nice to know you have made headway.. 4.6 degrees on the exhaust is massive.