GTScotT

Also keen to know. Are we talking the Walbro 400?

I used the penrite stuff which was labelled run in oil and costed $35. Motor has bed in and seen some abuse already without any sign of hiccup. Worked well.

2 bar? if you want to be cheeky try for 3 lol

The car will hit a brick wall before 260, depending on its aero. IIRC you need 6 or 700hp to break through the barrier without massive resistance. Not to say you couldn't hit 300 without 600hp but means the car will need a LOT more road post 260kmh. I've felt this myself, over 250 was near impossible where it was actually motoring before it got there. Wasn't anywhere near rev limit or out of torque band either.

What motor is that Damo? Your SRE30 or RB25?

Nice video looks good.

4k and 230 are reasonable expectations. Plenty from a stock RB20 Results yet to be posted though

XR8 rims, the flat 5 spokes with the line in the middle. wrong section.

Hypergear actually charges $200 more for a dual ceramic ball bearing core. Just PM him for a price and I think a fully tricked out turbo will be at least $500 cheaper.

Its only trim between them so its fairly interesting to compare.. both 16 and 18 with 68mm od. makes the t517z a fairly large turbo in comparison, 8mm up front and 4 out back. I would say the 2530 is always gonna have a little over the 16g down low but I also think the 16g will shine when highly strung. Going to PR that the 60mm won't and building stronger torque. I think the larger trim on the 18g gives some of that away, in exchange for a little more outright power at less boost.

being a DE on the factory dizzy, single coil and leads (20yo items lol) we left it on a very non agressive tune @ 16psi (14psi actuator). Does 210rwkw as is, a single degree more timing got a little noisier than Jez liked but was picking up roughly 10kw. There was at least 230 in it on the Mustang dyno, but we werent in a position to get it there safely. The torque is there, so the car is fast regardless. it more or less has peak power at peak torque lol to get an idea of a T517Z power potential just look at what a stock evo does. the 4G63 is probably better for making power but its also putting it to 4 wheels. a 517Z is a 16G6 compressor (ala evo 3 big 16G and evo 4-9).

Very different. The 18G is more like a better behaved GTRS/2871 than it is a 2530/2860RS. the 2530 is more linear in delivery with less in the middle and up top of the curve. The 18G read over 500nm @4200rpm on a mustang dyno. the 18g feels a lot like your half throttling and at 3700 you decide to pin it. The 2871 is similar but with less down low. The 2530 is probably boogying at 3300 and slowly rising from there.

I've done a TD05-18G on an SR from Kando, which works well. Has done a couple of tens of thousand K's since install and countless beatings. Holds 16psi well with a minor tapper. The TD05H-18G gives reasonable down low with a sudden surge onto good power at the 3700 mark. Motor is an SRDE non VCT. VCT models would do better in terms of spool character.

Lith a TD05H-16G6 is a T517Z http://store.greddy.net.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=264&category_id=94&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=93&vmcchk=1&Itemid=93 should be able to find results easy

Its using a 2IU exhaust housing rather than a .82 type A/B The turbine wheel has been re-done to better match the tight 2IU housing. It seems to have been developed to be 100% bolt-on ready and can be further developed down the track to have monster high mount potential.

Stao, all you need to do now is take that turbo to the drags. Get us a trap speed to verify the power and watch them fly out the door. If the trap speed is indicative of the power I think you will be selling these faster than you can produce them.

Afaik Roy is using 3 bolt

I contemplated doing this, but decided I wanted to see what actually happens when a mod see's it first lol

Please tell everyone how that works?

SS1PU runs a turbine sized similarly to a GT28, GT28 spec rear housing and T04B front SS2 runs a turbine sized similarly to a GT30, 5 bolt T3 rear and T04S front SS2.5 Highflow runs a completely custom spec turbine (will leave details to Stao), stock 2IU housings

No worries. Just drop me a PM if you need.

I'm in Liverpool mate. If you can wait a few weeks I can make a trip out but if you have a ute you can swing by and I'll rattle it off in the driveway LOL Depends how much of a rush your in. I don't mind helping a bloke out, won't be an issue. *goes to put the snap on for charge*

Its on FB somewhere, tuned by Status. Rear housing is the same size as a normal R33 2IU turbo (its a highflow lol)

Where are you located? I have a snap on 500NM 18v gun which will get it off. If its easy I can swing by and rattle it off for you easy.

Personally I would remove the plugs and turn it on its head. Then disassemble all the bottom end and leave the pistons/rods in it. Take the crank off and all, clean up the mess you made and put it back together as your own. Is there any reason you don't want to take the balancer off? Surely its not balanced all the way through when they are only using eagle rods? The only thing id be worried about is if the rods are out of round. Its going to be next to impossible to check while they are attached to the motor coz you wont be able to torque them down or possibly even fit the tool in. The journals being the cause of added heat is 1 concern but the actual closing of the rods another. You can only do whats feasible though and theres no point rebuilding an entire bloody motor purchased because it was already built, it defeats the purpose. Too late to refund due to concerns?