Roy

oops...sorry

Yeh, its bumpy as hell at the back under brakes....but the bigger problem is the gearbox fluid pissing out underneath the car and covering the underside of the car and rear tyres in oil I should have known something was up coming onto the straight as the thing didnt normally wheelspin in 3rd gear like that But I simply didnt click and kept my foot into it.

LOL, thank god none! But she has come close on two ocasions And no fire is complete without a binning 18 months later

LOL...The whole point of the vid was straight line acceleration...not lap times. I don't know Justin , I spoke to him briefly on the day when I bumped into Trent "I grew a bear lately and am hardly recognisable" . On the day he was doing a smidgen under 1:38s and then at another day he did a mid 1:36 Be real keen to see how the T67 goes with more runs...I was paying attention as I have that turbo at home As I said I don't know Justin, but with regards to John. Thanks for the using the word experience rather that slow...lol because I think its pretty obvious John is a quicker driver than me

People don't go near our materials unless they are qualified to a qualified weld procedure. So all coupons for a weld procedure have undergone a visual inspection, mechanical tests, x-ray and then depending on the code welders are typically qualified to it with visual examination and radiography. So not concerned by the heat affected zone because mechanically the joint has been proven to be as strong as the parent metal. Thats where experience boiler makers are worth their weight in gold. For typical materials and sizes they can weld it no problem without a procedure with the same end result. Perfect for this stuff like manifolds. So would expect the weld to also pass a tensile/mechanical test. Hell on our stainless work we use varigon and 5.0 argon to purge the oxygen down to less than 10ppm to control oxidation in the welds. The varigon burns and controls better so you get away with using less amps. The level of oxidation in the HAZ is what kills us. We have to achieve an ID heat tint of 2 or better by the AWS chart or the weld is rejected and cut out Blows many away who are new to the pharma-semiconductor industries that you have to achieve that weld finish without pickling or polishing. So you can go to the same lengths with manifolds, but who is going to pay for it? There is a 10k exhaust manifold in the Builds thread, its a work of art. But few people will pay for that level of quality and design when close enough will often be good enough

Last time I looked you could register it as an Individually Constructed Vehicles. Depends on the state, but in Vic you just get your VASS engineer to sign it off

Oh god, I would have to go back through old emails. It was definitely less than 16gauge/1.65mm, and I think it was 18gauge/1.25mm. It was mega light which I always loved

So how do we break into the Trust factory and steel all their tacked up manifolds and weld them properly. My old trust manifold worked a treat, it had a few small issues with cracks over the 8 years I had it.. and when repairing the cracks I was shocked to see that the original welds had 30-50% penetration at best. Would have been such a good thing if welded as though it was coded pressure piping.

But your sister can buy you a kit in the UK and send it over for Xmas. The Aus dealer is a criminal and the costing means its no surprise you dont see any locally. Though to be fair about the prices, there are probably reasons why they charge what they do, doesnt change the fact you would have to be pretty cashed up to pay for one from an Aussie dealer

I think you are all being too critical. As R33_racer touched on. I would be concerned if it was a tubular weld with a square butt...but being pipe I am betting the thing woudl fail due to poor fusion, lack of penetration etc well before a bit of undercut. Technically people are right about the defect in the weld...its a matter of what is acceptable for a car manifold. Thats going to be pretty subjective

Appreciate what the welding gurus out there are saying, but there is very little undercut and the weld is a little concave. I personally wouldn't care...the bigger concern is full penetration and no porosity or dags on the inside to break free and damage turbines. Simon-S14, about the only manifold I have ever seen without the flaws you are pointing out is Full Race. 6boost, ETM, Brae etc all have one or two welds that are a little concave, a small bit of undercut. Hell the 6boost collector that everyone loves has jack all penetration and if you take the turbo off after some hours or running you will see that expansion will have opened up and split the once neat, perfect looking collector ID. I appreciate you are a ticketed boiler maker and I am not, but unless you are looking at the ID and checking for penetration I dont know how you can confidently say that it is a weak weld. Could have easily closed up the fit up and put a capping run on it to make it look sexy and people would be happy. The ID could show that there is no penetration and a risk of cracking and if so then I would agree you are right. But I think based on the one picture we might be jumping the gun a little calling it a weak weld

MEGA EXCITED...COSWORTH SIERRA ...brought to you by Ryan and Leon. Thanks boys! Its a rattly, doesn't go for shit 80s Ford. But man I am going to be cool pumping Jon Secada and Pat Benatar whilst doing laps of Shep

They were either Yoko AD008 or the Federal 595RSR. John punts that car well... I dont know the R33-T67 driver so cant comment on his ability, but his times were well respectable so he cant be a slouch. Whilst I have driven my thing on the track for years...I openly admit I am there to have a fun and learn and know I am not that great/fast a driver. Its a slow learning curve when you have to scrape together the money for entry, tyres, fuel, brake pads etc . In that footage my car had old, square RE55s as I had flat spotted them badly earlier in the day...you can see plumes of smoke early in the vid. The thing had a shocking vibration and I had trouble stopping the car due to flat spots. So was about 1.5-2 seconds off the usual lap times. But didnt affect me mid corner and getting on the loud pedal so acceleration comparison still stands. I was really sweating the R33-T67 behind me and was regularly checking to see if I was holding him up. At Sandown/Phillip Island his extra grunt would have had him past me as the acceleration post 180km/h would be an advantage (I expect)but it was very even.

Well, Kimi and Romain not off to a great first day of second testing. Chassis is defective Oh well, at least Dan is looking quick.

That would be half the fun of building something like a DR30. The challenge of getting the last 15% right. I am a long way from being a good service guy, but there are things that jump out at you when you are servicing or trying to repair cars in the heat of battle. It would be cool to put a car up for sale and have a reputation for building cars that the general consensus would be "thats built by xyz...its a good buy". Its a curse from hanging around all the old boys who know what is right and wrong as they have had a hand in building 30 cars over 40 years They mention names of builders and those in the know understand why the asking price is what it is! Take this car for example. It has had two owners since the guy I know built it...He has been at me to buy it as it would be a great instant Tarmac Rally car just add driver and navigator. Appears to have lost its Hollinger and AP brakes etc , and the main drawback is it has been 12-13 years since he sold it . Just add driver and navigator and go...for what can only be 1/10 of the cars original build cost it still has to be a reasonable thing for the asking price http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/pulsar/id/6383/Default.aspx#

Plus, services cars with gas cylinders that you need to rent etc. I think far too few people put proper jacking points on their car. They spend thousands on cages but dont weld some intelligently placed plate to the feet of the cage that allows you to painlessly slip a jack and stands under there! Shits me no end when I am the one scared to jack their cars as I have to use the POS std points on low cars with skirts,lips etc

I understand that 1000%...sure as shit easier/better/worse/different paths to what I have taken...good thing I am not trying to win anything either because I sure as shit have never won a thing on merit in my life When I have gone drag racing I normally pay more attention to the burnout then I do the actual run But perhaps you and I are different to most...most people want the quickest car for the least spend. Me, I just want to fark around with shit and understand why or why not it worked. God word that the car will be ready end of next week so 73HTA and tune will be over the Labour Day long weekend. May even get the 18G on if the install is as straight forward as I hope

I never sell anything So unless it gets stolen or written off it will be going into my personal museeum off what I once thought was cool. I have purchased a few of those kit car magazines out of the UK trying to get an understanding of which cars are good, and which are rubbish. The Caterham appears to be the clear leader, with Westfield a distant second when it comes to the quality of the suspension, mostly rear end and brakes/handling etc. If someone with the relevant experience can point to another, cheaper kit then I would happily look at it. At the moment every 3-4 weeks I just search for an Academy car or R300 Race Car with a view of rebuilding it and putting Honda S200 running gear in it

What the hell is wrong with your car these days? If it needs tyres then I can help with those...lol I need a car to drive Actually, I need someone to drive my car up from Melbourne...

GoPro and POV Damn you Ash, posting between my two posts. I was just trying to show 3 vids of the same car using different cameras in pretty difficult situations AND , what is it with SAU not liking youtubes one day, but fine the next? I am missing something?

I have both Radcam and GoPro and i think the Radcam just edges it. The new GoPro with external mic could be a good thing, the picture quality in varying lights seems to self adjust better. The other negative on the GoPro is understandwing what the hell you are actually filming, a bluetooth link to your phone to adjust and setup woudl be a good feature. Below is footage with a Radcam You can see the open top car with wind noise, changing light conditions/sun etc is a problem for all in varying degrees. The other hiccup is youtube seems to kill the quality of the vid when you upload so again you lose some of the quality that the GoPro and Radcam have over POV

Yeh, not a 1000% conclusive anything video. I just thought it was interesting how such a wide range of engine outputs didn't really yield anything "fark me dead" different in way of how it got from one end of the straight to the other. I mean accelerating from 60km/h to 180km/h would be a pretty good test for acceleration. (My R32 is 1335kgs with no 5-10L of fuel and no driver ) And the only reason why I thought an R32 GTR rim would be a go for a run at Calder was I can get my hands on a pair and figure a 16x8 +30 is going to be better then my usual rims for fitting a drag style radial with a bigger sidewall...but fark it. Its all a wank, when I run again at the drags I will just run my old track tyres/ rims 17x9.5 so I am not scared of burning money with the burnout

What tyres would be best to run on an R32 GTR rim?

I read that they are keeping Jack Daniels sponsorship. So guessing the livery will be largely black. I liked the old white, red and blue. But Nissan / Nismo colours these days are predominantly white with red, grey and black highlights....no blue anymore. So expect the car to be heavily black and white with heavy use of red Nissan badging

Ditto, need to know timing and whether you can also squeeze a battery relocation in for me.