Roy

What fuel? Nice result!!!

Lic plate R32 or RB26? If you mean RB26 then its Justin Fox's car ... http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/03/02/car-feature-gt-gt-justin-fox-s-r32-gt-r.aspx

Nice work on the shrouds. Far nicer result then my 20mm thick clark foam/rubber which is cut to size and squeezed into the gaps between the radiator and cooler. About the only thing I will add is people try to duct a large surface area into smaller core etc thinking they are capturing more air and aiding cooling. Really what is more likely to happen is increase drag and cause too high a turbulence at the face of the cooler core and actually limit the flow through it.

Fingers crossed after months of neglect we will be able to get this thread back up and running with updates and the Top 10s updated.

If I was going to do anything to the inlet I would be interested in just modding the std inlet with a wider twin throttle body off an L98 or LT1 But I dont think I have ever read anyting about the std throttle being a restriction so not sure of there is anything to gain from going to smaller twins to try and sharpen throttle response and flow to the plenum

Does $1700 come with a gate? Is it meant to be a 60mm gate?

So Pete, forget shits and giggles. I want that manifold. Talk to me big buddy Dont need the turbos but if you dont want to split

If by Pro you mean wears creepy fishnets and sawed off jeans and prowls the streets of Zurich at 2am!

That one I told you about in Japan is still for sale http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v228047993 But cant help you out with the requested money tree

May miss March, hope not. But should be all sorted by April. Cant wait to get the old girl back out there an hammering. Hopegully Leon, Belsil80, and a few others are back out there so we can battle out the 2L title Stuff Russ and his uber spec abomination....he can go play with Newton

His 73mm billet wheel is the FP Green 73HTA wheel. I assume his 68HTA is also an FP wheel. It appears the main difference between the FP Green turbo is that they use Garret turbines in Mitsu housings and GT Pumps use the TD06 based turbines. But the compressors are the same. But with different hot sides who knows whether they perform the same. One thing is that I dont have to worry about a single scroll T3 internal gate housing messing with performance as I have my Greddy 8cm to use with the external setup

Speak to Mark GT Pumps in Sydney http://www.gtpumps.com.au/main.html He built a friends EVO turbo which won Targa Tasmania Early Modern Category last year so his 20G turbos are good, reliable things. Mark was very helpful and once I decided what I really wanted had the turbo 3-4 days after ordering. I paid about 1K for it with no exhaust housing. ATP in Vic do a similar thing but is a little more expensive, but he also does them for Garrets so maybe more to your needs.

LOL, seems that way doesnt it. I have a guy who wants my 20G setup and tune and if the 73HTA works to plan then I already have a buyer for the 6boost and 20G. So the cost of that would help pay for what I assume would the $1,100 for a new manifold using my old gates and piping and 73HTA, otherwise there is always the OBX option just to see if if works. I suggest that if someone is going to a T67-25G on something like an RB25 then they could find value is seeing if 6boost will tweak his runner design or using a cheap OBX manifold with some bracing to take the weight of the turbo (off the side of the head) Who knows about RB25s, but on an RB20 a TD06L2-73HTA with an OBX 6-2-1 design manifold and gate would be yours for less than $2000. That would be a steal in my eyes for a turbo that I would hope that will flow 280rwkws on 98, making over 200rwkws from 4,500rpm. With a 10cm housing on RB25 you could very well have a 310rwkws 98 setup. Turbo 1k, OBX $400, T3 housing $200 and $400 for a gate...plus usual cooler and dump pipes. LOl...if I am waffling on too much then let me know. My random thoughts and excitement often get the better of me

I am tempted to get 6boost to try and make a 6 into 2 into 1 manifold. Perhaps thats why the Trust ones work well vs the 6boost 6 into 1 type.

Yeh, old dynpo run from back in the day when my car actually had mid range and torque with the std plenum, cam gears and Greddy exhaust manifold I have cam gears, memory (if you are going to use my settings as a guide then let me know and I will check to make 100% sure) was that the inlet is about 0 and exhaust retarded by about 4 deg I have always meant to get out to Trent's to give my car a run as I wanted to see if there was any merit between the FF plenums, but now we both run them we may be in the same boat of lacking a bit of mid but making more up top. Based on general dyno performances yours is actually making more power than mine ... My old girl still has good compression and passed a recent leak down but it just doesnt make power or respond to tune inputs like it used too. Its either age or a combination of things. I am wondering whether its my 10 year old exhaust is on the way out. Plan to rip it off for the upcoming dyno-turbo comparisons juts to make sure muffler isnt collapsing etc. Did Status comment on whether your cam gear settings are the same with your FF plenum as they are for other similar RB20s running the std inlet plenum. One thing we didnt really play with when I put the Plazmaman on was the cam gear settings. I suppose it has changed the breathing of the engine sufficiently to warrant another play with cam gears but its just so much dyno time and $$$ to get cam gears right

Ok cool. But doesnt sound like a very definitive dyno run due to little hiccups. Why so much wheelspin? Car not tied down properly or bad wheel alignment and tyres? My results are on a Dyno Dynamics dyno....I have no idea if its a high reading or low reading dyno. My car has been tuned on the same dyno for a number of years so the results for it at least are by the same tuner and dyno...so easy to compare the changes I have made but the usual hard to compare to others. Status did comment that this particular Dyno Dynamics reads 15-20rwkws higher then his results It did run on Dr Drifts dyno years ago...but the result was not great due to the std coil packs before they got replaced. You can see it hits about 21psi at 4,000rpm with just wastegate and no EBC. Its making about 18psi at around 3,750rpm. Not sure how loaded the dyno was for that run. Irrespective of when the dyno says it makes full boost, it doesnt start to really pull until 4,200-4,500rpm when it starts making over 200rwkws When looking for some old dyno sheets I found an old comparo of old SAU RB20 setups. The results are very old and a spreadsheet from different dynos so plenty of danger is making any direct comparisons and relative statements My turbo 8cm vs 10cm My car was making 234rwkws with this tune...it was from around 2005 after I had the engine bay fire at Winton so was not running much power as we were not sure if there was any damage to engine, turbo etc

Looking back through the thread I found this pic of the cheapo manifold http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=371102 Seems a bit average, I suppose for the money you could clean them up with a die grinder...seems ok value if they control boost ok. And BSA/DVS Jez, I have never seen the graph for the RB20 20G setup. Will be real interesting to see if there is much difference. I read in your for sale thread it made 240rwkws at 18psi. The extra 2psi could see you up around the 255rwkws mark so could be a similar result...far better then the std manifold internal gate results I have seen. The real comparison will be the difference if any at 4,000 and 4,500rpm

Sure it runs hot. It doesnt overheat, but it gets far hotter then it ever would on the street or during a spirited drive. If I did more than 4-5 laps flat knacker the thing would probably overheat. I dont like running over 95 water temp. I have no idea about oil temp these days as I still havent re-wired oil temps from years ago when I had the fire at Winton. Oil temp never used to be a drama so I just assume it isnt these days (might be a dangerous assumption ) Everything in my engine bay is scorching hot when I lift the bonnet...you have buckleys of even leaning over the engine bay to listen to a noise or even touch the strut brace or the inlet plenum. Not until it cools down I still run std water pump and radiator and cap and clutch fan. If I only use 6,500rpm then i can usually go as long as the session allows. Its the extra 2,000rpm that sees the temps start climbing rather quickly. 65mm

Build your stroker... have fun. If you ever want to run a tarmac event then a std engine and hi flow turbo is what, 3k...small price in the grand scheme of things after you have built up a race car with a stroker engine

Agree, I imagine the differences I note below could be largely cancelled by putting a gate there to take all the extra flow that causes back pressure and gas reversion/poor flow and excess heat I have not driven a 20G setup with a modified manifold so cant really comment for 100% on that. I am not trying to turn this into a d1ck measuring contest, but can you post up the dyno sheet of the setup you are referring to? Still, a dyno doesnt show throttle response and part throttle response which is where i think some of the difference is Here is my sheet, lower curve is my 98 tune, the higher is my 100 tune. Can get more if it wasnt a track car but for a std motor on PULP 98 with std radiator etc the engine gets damn hot at the track so dont get too keen with the ignition these days as the Plazmaman plenum has made it more sensitive to knock This is my 98 track tune before I went plazmaman It is my opinion they are shit. If you are a tuner you will know better then me as you will see how much fuel and ignition the engine will take and the resultant difference tweaking makes as a better reflection of what is working and not working. But I have driven RB20s with 2510, 2530, 2535, HKS 2835, TD06-20G, T04E, GT-RS and GT35R. If you drive my car with aftermarket manifold and external gate then get into the std manifold car with the 2530, you will notice very little difference in response and the external gate setup will feel sharper off boost at light throttle opening. So I club the same sensation to the GT-RS, 2535, 2530, 2510 setups. They seem to only respond when they spool and have boost in them, even at light throttle openings. Despite the far bigger wheels spinning in the GT35R it felt sharp on the street. Plant your foot and you had to wait for the rpms and spool...but to drive around at light throttle openings and sharpness to the throttle response the cars with the aftermarket manifolds all seemed to be nicer to drive. There also isnt as much difference as you would expect when you consider the wheel sizes of the turbos. What would be interesting is to get a Tial housing for a 2530 and go atmo gate and 6boost and compare to std manifold and 2530. There are some things you can only see as a result of driving the car....they dont show up when comparing dynos...that said seat of pants sensation can be misleading so perhaps I am wrong Also, what do you mean by less quality bolt ons? Be itneresting if you would expect a difference. I have a used GTR cooler, used GTR injector,....a 10 year old - 110,00km old HKS Hyper exhaust. The turbos are the same bar the badge,. but mine is 9 years and 60,000kms old....there is nothing exotic about my setup. The Plazmaman and 6boost manifold are new though...lol even though they resulted in losses in performance I suppose the biggest influence on my thinking is why a GT-RS on a std manifold RB20 isnt as good a thing as a 20G "setup". Not to mention the RB25 setup comparisons I have seen regarding the full 3037 setup and the 3037 Pro turbo on std manifold...but again, perhaps the secret is the gate to the manifold and the external gate rear housings. Anf LOL, finally... Are you taking the piss or being serious? I dont care but you could be right. Perhaps the smaller exhaust pulses of the pissy little 2L six means things are a little more sensitive to exhaust flow and back pressure

What makes it so nice? it relies on shallow angle and flow and bugger all spring pressure in the gate vs back pressure and sharper angle like most? Whether the turbine housing is the source of all the back pressure or whether its in the collector as well...there isnt worlds apart in the difference. Unless you are running mega small turbines and need the gates to flow all that hp you are getting from small turbine and big compressor

Std manifolds are shit. That is all. Sure they make power, could even be similar power to an aftermarket manifold. But on the street or when driving the difference in throttle response is notable. How bad this thing is? Well provided its made from the same wall thickness bends as all the others then the ID will be about the same so....all this talk about angles etc? It is more like the jap manifold in that it uses a greater then 90 deg angle and a long pipe to mount the wastegate low.No different to how Trust and HKS do it....and for all the d1ck pulling about 6boost my car made more power and better response with the Greddy manifold so ...make of that as you please So cant see the issue the rest of you all are vs

Nick, for half the money I will build you a cool R32 GTSt so you can go punting with the cool kids like "Two Bens Racing"

Was talking about that on the weekend. I think I have about 5k of brakes, 6k of turbos. 6k of pistons, blocks, cams, cranks etc. 2k of wheels. 2k of seats. Gearboxes, clutches. But some of that gear would make a rally car cheap, an R32 would be real cheap but like the idea of a DR30 as over time could do more with it with bits. But I think I talked myself into buying an R31 GTS-R to go with the Sierra, my Rambo CD collection and all other 80s stuff I am just an angry, restless man. I would be at peace if I just quit my job...all the crap I do, buy is to try and offset how much I hate going to work everyday! Hell, Spa in 4-5 weeks is a sanity trip for being in carntfarknowherenearanywhere with work at the moment. At least OS remote locations mean better money

I am thinking the Sierra may be for sale to fund a DR30 build again. A mate is now keen to help build and navigate. Makes a big difference when a mate is interested in the build as well and willing too help out and share beers and giggle at the stupidity and size of the task. No fun if going it alone with tight budget. Never be a chance for Targa Tas, but can afford to do some of the smaller two day events around Vic and NSW...lol just need to give it a week. I am sure this feeling will blow over and the urge will be manageable in a weeks time