Roy

Yeh, I suspect that none of the turbos I am trying out will be the perfect all rounder. Will see. But since I am getting them all tuned I am just going to save the tunes and use Datalogit to throw the tune in for the setup I have bolted on. Changing turbo is quicker then a brake pad and bleed

They are a business. No shame in making money from on-selling, especially if they are an approved dealer who has perhaps invested time and cost in training and supporting a product. Hell they dont get paid for the 40mins on the phone answering questions about the product, so if they sell it they are entitled to a few dollars in my eyes. LOL, that means I dont try and get around it myself Personally it pisses me off that I have an Cosworth ECU that works great....just isnt supported by anyone here as in motorsport world they sell themselves and not readily used by street/modded car workshops. So now have to look at something like a Link I cant even download the tuning software, I have to buy it So having a dealer network that is protected can be a good thing...you only notice it when there isnt a dealer network

Re Speedtech and others...Dont assume you will be able to buy from NZ or other OS stores. Two NZ Link dealers knocked me back in November as they were told not to sell into others markets. So I would be getting on the phone and speaking to them....yo umay find you have to buy off a local agent. Thats a good thing to me as whats the point of being a dealer if people are just going to buy OS. Sux for the consumer, but good for the shops that we need to have around to do work for us Anyone out there running either of these ECUs able to comment on their ability to hold boost? I am tempted to run some air injectors from the unused outputs as this approach seems to give you the boost control you need from internal gate turbos running E85 happy boost levels of ~28psi

Yeh, I have measured them up and the retractor are all vertical mount on the side of the car and perpendicular. So they have to be mounted in the vertical pointing straight up with no angle in the belt. The sash guide is directly above the retractor. Hopefully a 180SX or something is similar. Belts need to be 2.35m

I have, they are the ones telling me 2-3 week for making them up. Tempted to grab some out of a 180SX from someone wrecking. Not sure if the engineer will be happy with that and waiting to get his feedback. My understanding is that for a pre 89 car they only have to comply with ADR, not be new

These come around so quickly. Skyline in Sydney and Cossie shoudl have rego by then but will need a tune. May come down for drinks-laughs since I am only 40mins away these days

fatz, dont be a hack. I have grabbed a bunch of these so that i can easily change turbos etc without having to dick around with coolant lines going to awkward spots, ditto oil supply line. http://www.staubli.com/en/connectors/market-solutions/motorsports/dry-break-coupling-sphba/ Just need to work out whether I have enough space for wiggin/racetech clamps on the turbo outlet and make some v-band connectors for the outlet. I have got a Datalogit now so think I am just going to go TD05-1G for street and Winton etc and 73HTA for Sandown, PI and giggles on E85

I am trying to get seat belts for my imported Sierra. I am being told 2-3weeks for delivery. Does anyone know a supplier that can turn them around quicker?

No idea. With my A/F meter plumbed up, the knocklink and a G4 I was going to give it a go. The Cossie is only a street car so not like I will be chasing power from it or stressing the old girl

The Carling Zed was such a cool car. And no disrespect to Carling but I understand that with a pilot it would have been quicker again

Is one cheaper then the other? I only need to run a 4 cylinder so thinking the G4 Storm wire in will do the trick?

From a track day in December at Phillip Island

He got pipped it seems today. Bagged a podium and didn't end up in the drink

I was running Grade 8 bolts and they were typically shagged after a track day. Next week of driving would have small exhaust leaks which I could nip up but were a pain in the ass. The original Trust studs were tops...but when my car went to a workshop for some work all the studs were repalced with bolts and hence the problems started. Majority of turbo suppliers do them. I got mine from a place in Melb but pretty sure GCG and others all do them. You can easily get them on line from US and if you are like me and never have any time to go buy stuff from actual places so want to buy online

Meh. Its motorsport. You come second it just means you have the second biggest cheque book

I dont think they are. I think you just have to cough up the dollars for Inconel studs fasteners. You go years on the street with no issues with either 3 or 4 bolt housings. As soon as you start flogging them on the track std or crap bolts yield

Hmm...will get one sooner or later. Need to chat as needs to be modded to suit rwd and need to understand if it will clear my swaybars and whats going on with baffles and volume. I need to understand if/why you need 8 or 9L in a rwd car. Surely if you are keeping oil temps around 100deg C and you are not getting surge then do I need the headaches of uber pricey oil changes

Who knows? Tial seem to think that if they are going to go to the trouble of making housings for Garrets that they do v-band round rather then square. But then EFR range which are meant to be all things in turbo design are square...but then the TR30R is round....so who knows. Doubt it makes a poofteenths difference in the real world when running on a car. I suppose in theory you can have the same A/R and flow with less friction losses against internal wall of housings.

Go see your doctor. They can write you a script for a prescription drug that increases your bodies production of melanin. It makes you very photsensitive so you have to be careful the first few days that you are out in the sun and wear plenty of sun block. It can help you build up a decent tan which by itself helps build up a better tolerance for exposure to the sun. One of my old clients use to make the drug and they are now in partnership for research into better melanin releasing products. From memory when chatting to the gusy in the lab at lunch things like tyrosine and Gingko biloba mcan boost melanin production

So who is going to give a Kando billet a go?

Seems most of the talk is around the shank of the turbo. The billets being thinner so you actually get more surface area of blade . Well at least thats what the CBRD crowd really emphasise You can see a small difference in the pics for the adverts http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-7075-AL-T67-25G-TD07S-25G-Extra-30-airflow-/270897143127?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f12ba5d57#ht_2045wt_1270 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-Mistubishi-T67-TD06SH-TD07S-25G-/290657757814?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac8d6a76#ht_2173wt_1270 LOL, more then anything all I want is one of those pretty billet nuts that go on the comrpessor

How often do teams have the best, top 2 car for 4 years in a row? You would have to think this year could be the start of period where Mercedes, Fezz or Macs come back and the RBR is fighting for a top 4 starting spot. The reasonably static rules and regs may mean RBR hang in there but with no blown diffuser the field is leveled a little

But I think Kando can only do 8cm TD06/T67 housings in the Mitsu/Trust 3 bolt housing. They couldnt do me a TD05 housing or TD06H Trust style housing. That was 6 months ago so maybe doing them now?!?!?!?! I have been looking into this a fair but and its so hard to get reliable information. From what I can see there is the usual common sources of suppliers. I understand the FP ones are unique, and the BBK ones are unique. There are several other US places doing billet wheels and talk on US forums is that they dont get the response/improvements that the FP wheels get...and it appears they are a common supply. Ditto the BBK wheels which on US forums seem to have them a little behind the FP wheel. I think I am going to try the 18G then hi-flow it with a 68HTA wheel and see how it looks. If I can get something that hammers on the RB20 then it will be a good thing on the RB24 :)Anywhere around 270-300rwkws is nice. More then anything I want 250rwkws from 4,750rpm The talk on the 73HTA vs 20G is a genuine increase of 15% in power for same response...on some setups a tad better transient response. So if simply throwing a billet wheel at my 20G has me going fr0m 270rwkws to 305-310rwkws on 98 then I will be the happiest guy in the country. If that goes to plan I will be in all you T67 guys ear to try the 76HTA I would love to know for real if there really is any difference between the Blouch, CBRD, Forced performance compressors etc. It seems to me the biggest variable is the turbines. Some run GT30 turbines, others cropped Mitsubishi turbines. There is probably a lot of hit and miss with the wheel cropping versions

Isnt it. Tragedy is all i need for my new engine is an oil pump and a sump. Grab one of these then the quest for a cheap oil pump could see me with a complete engine ready to go cheat

Hey Pete. People sometimes dont bother with running water cooling saying "some turbos only run oil so all is good." But the way I think about it is that the bearing materials, housing design and materials are all designed and selected on the assumption that coolant/water is going to keep the ultimate temperature lower. So if you run them without you may end up with premature bearing failure as a result of running hotter then normal.