Roy

Porsche 1-2...giggity giggity! Come on Mark and Brendan; good work putting it on pole!

If you are building a Time Attack car like the original poster stated and you want it to be an RB30 based motor I would personally buy whatever ancillaries you want to run, install it all and run it with a std engine and head combo for a few events. Way too many engines die in the early days due to fuelling issues, oil supply issues, cooling issues elec gremlins etc etc etc. Get the thing sorted with a cheap engine and enjoy it. You may find the std engine well tuned with good oiling will provide you 90% of the numbers you are after! Brakes, cage, seats, suspension and turbos, coolers, diff etc are already a +20k proposition and frankly is where most of the speed is over a built engine that may go bang due to teething problems. I guess it all depends on how "time attack" your track car is. I think if you are going wet sump with Nitto oil pump then perhaps that is the main reason/area where you need to speak to your engine builder and think what you are doing with your car Lastly, acsplit has an RB30 with -5s turbo making serious grunt. I think the main difference between the RB30, RB26 or stroker RB28 is simply the nature of the delivery and the fact that the RB30 isnt fully counter weighted so doesnt spin up quite as nicely. RIPS and many others have got good numbers our of RB30s for years so doubt its the end of the world...but imagine a fully counter weighted crank is going to be nicer on bottom ends when you are spinning them to high rpm and throwing boost at them...but half a donze of one and 6 of the other

A mate just bought a HKS2535 for a song. Turns out it is in good order. Just buy a blown 2530/2535/2540...grab a 2860 core and away you go... $1500 for a defacto HKS turbo

I think it largely depends on how good those Kando Rb T3 housings work. The TD05-16G you describe is effectively a Trust T517z. The Garrett is effectively a HKS 2530. So if you spend a few hours reading SR20DET results using a T517z vs HKS 2530 you will get an idea what you are getting yourself into EVERYTHING is a compromise! You need to decide for yourself what compromises you will live with based on what your desired objectives are.

So the plan from here? Always wondered about the merit of machiing head and block to take 26 studs. I really want to rebuild my RB20 and flog off the 25DE

You cooked a HG? What brand etc etc?

I just got Foxtel Play. $50 a month and streams to my laptop whcih I just HDMI to the TV. Resolution is fine, but not HD. May try and get Foxtel box etc etc

Just email them and say that you want the turbo you listed with a std 3" compressor cover (non anti-surge) They were very responsive to my enquiries back in the day.

Yeh, holesaw first...and stolen dimple dies. They are about $300 for 1", 1.5" and 2' kits..easier to borrow but when my car gets its cradle back in and the spend slows will be grabbing my own so not to have to borrow gear all the time. Holesaw sux balls as it leaves so much swarf and shit inside the door

They are the same A/R so not likely to make a big difference. 3" means more changes to inlet piping vs std vs 2.4". But more importantly there is reason to believe anti-surge covers take a bit away from response so 2.4" is easier to package and make look std. If you go 3" just go std 3", not anti-surge

Just scrolled through the RB20 dyno results thread. The Hypergear turbos all seem very laggy, but there are so many versions of the things perhaps they are older versions Hypergear OP6 Hiflow may be more suited to an RB25 Stock RB20 HyperGear ATR43SS1 (none PU version) turbo internally gated bolton to stock manifold. 3" Turbo Back Exhaust Nistune tuned Pump 98 Fuel FMIC 480cc Injectors Bosch 040 Fuel Pump 3inches hard intake pipe with Pod 227rwkw (green) @ 18psi It doesnt seem a bad option if you want a bit of headspace FJ1600s results 92' gts-t Stock Internals - SSS Automotive Wrecker Engine Bosch ev14 750cc injectors Z32 AFM Walbro pump Sard FPR Red jacket coils Bellmouth dump and 3' exhaust + decat GRedy Profec B II FMIC Hypergear RB20 Highflow Turbo PULP 98 224.8kw on 17psi Stock RB20 RB20 Turbo Hypergear Highflow 3" Turbo Back Exhaust Nistune tuned on V-Power 98 Fuel GTR Intercooler 555cc Nismo Injectors Walbro Fuel Pump Splitfire Coil Packs Greddy Profec b Spec II Stock Airbox and KN Panel Filter 201rwkw @ 20psi (High), dropping a bit to 19psi and 174.6rwkw @ 14psi(Low). Did 206 with the cat removed, but the engine started pinging as the timing got advanced, so had to leave it with the 201 tun

I would personally go for the 2.4" compressor cover, rather than the 3" anti-surge cover. But importantly they are the wheels and turbine housing to go for

From RB20 dyno results thread 1993 R32 GTST Stock RB20DET TD05-18G (EG 8cm) Nismo 555cc (with GTR Resistor Pack) Nistune 3" Turbo Back Walbro 255 FMIC Z32 AFM United 100 RON Stock engine, stock manifold, stock cams/gears.. With some cam gears dialled in you woudl expect to pick up a little bit in response. Not sure what T3 housing he has

They are just spreadsheet dumps of peoples dyno sheets over the years. God it was from about 2004-2005 So there are differences in dyno types, dyno operators adn importantly wheel sizes. The rolling diameter of a 16" wheel is a lot smaller than an 18" so if going by road speed you can think something is more responsive than it really is because of the smaller wheel size. So, the important take away IMO is arming yourself with a reasonable expectation and then speak to your tuner. Your tuner is paramount and get them to show you different graphs all from the same dyno so you can compare apples to apples. If you are in your states SAU club jump in cars and go for rides. And lastly, dont rule out the Hypergear turbos I guess. From what was posted his T3 offering for his SR20 turbo is a bit of an abomination with buts welded on here and there to make work, but if there are some good results out there for an RB20 then it should be on your consideration list. But the RB20 result he posted was not all that promising, though that may be that particular car and not the turbos fault

So cliff notes. TD05 and TD06 are referring to the turbine type and size. 16G, 18G or 30 , 25G are all referring to the size of the compressor. So, if you are going std internal gate bolt on turbo I personally would stay away from anything as big as a TD06. That is the same size turbine as I am running and can make 300-330rwkws. So waaaay over what you are after and in turn will be bigger and heavier for the exhaust gas to spin so...laggier than you need So the compressor side of things...if you go for as late a model 16G based turbo you will be in the window of the power and response you are after. IMO stay away from 20G or even 18G as the 18G is really the same size as the 20G , just a different trim. So again on 98 fuel it is a 270rwkws turbo. So, for me and what I understand your needs to be...I would be looking at getting Kando to price up the following turbo for you. T3 TD05H turbine housing http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbo-Turbine-Housing-Nissan-Skyline-RB20DET-RB25DET-8cm-TD05H-T3-/271807706353?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3f490074f1 Cartridge http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbo-Cartridge-CHRA-TD05H-Small-16G-Oil-Cooled-49178-54700-46-60mm-/271531508287?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3f388a023f And run a 2/4" Compressor cover. Effectively that is an old EVO turbo If you want to go to basically an 18G sized wheel, just the smallest trim then get the 16G6 (in Mitsubishi world they call it a Big 16G) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Billet-Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-Mitsubishi-EVO-3-TD05H-16G-48-30-68-01-mm-6-6-/291401525948?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43d8e26abc And run that with the T3 Skyline housing from above. DO NOT take thei std T3 turbone housing as they are POS! ie this They are horrible on the exhaust side for flow

The tough thing is you are really all out there on a ledge. Can't look to late model production engines, race engines etc because your rev limit, power level etc are all very different. I was reading about the 1.6L turbo Toyota engines that are being developed for the WRC program as a platform are rated up to 600hp for various classes of racing. The problem is what impact do inlet restrictors etc have on head design. Anecdotally looking at pics of their head and also other turbo LMP engines they all seem to have squish pads. Ditto F1 V8 and V10 engines so it doesnt seem to be a high rpm NA thing either. So, i think the main thing is to go with the one mob for concept ensuring piston shape, injector type location etc are all factored in...

LOL, I love the thinking you put into your car. I have gone down the same road with trying to get some weight out of the std doors I am loving dimple dies at the mo

LOL, just trying to turn this into an RB25 > RB20 thread due to displacement Interesting discussion and the only person I know who had really spent time and folding stuff on a head was Doughboy with what was a very expensive head which sadly got sold as he went the route of the Ford V8 for his drag R33. But I am guessing you know Rams in Windsor and have spoken to them about the whole head/piston combination options?

Dont waste your time and money. A stroked RB26 will always be laggy and a waste of time. People use to stroke RB26s before alloy chevs were around or the XR6 motor came out so I .... would just put a Barra XR6 motor in it, so much more responsive. Or maybe just put an LS1 in it.

I discovered last night I hat Homo more than Vettel...and actually was rather happy for Vettel. Loved hearing Homo sook on the radio...Skysports jump on Rosberg everytime he talks on the radio

LOL, my car is a street car first, track car second and is a huge compromise on the track because of it. What makes good usable power on the street makes for good usable power on the track. Its not like a slow street car will make a good track car!!! A TD05-16G may work ok but frankly...lottery dip stuff.... IF you are going to go anything after your RB25 turbo its a GTX2860 or grab a used 2530.If you are going to spend the money dont do it with one arm tied behind your back. Like i said, dont tune the RB25 turbo setup and go straight to the better turbo and you have just saved yourself the difference between a cheap lottery dip turbo and a better turbz that will give you a good result. But i get the reason why the poster wants to run his RB25 turbo for a while. The 2530/2860 is a good bolt on option...but dont think its massively more responsive than a bigger turbo that is a proper full setup. All different dynos and tuners but here are a bunch of plots but reckon it paints the correct picture

The only reason why a metal headgasket may be a good idea is the RB20 is no spring chicken and a fresh headgasket would be good insurance. But if the engine comes back ok from a leak down test...why spend the money on IMO conservative insurance. This is a wrecker motor...abused for years and if you are only doing the occasional track day at way less power than me then I would be suggesting std headgasket, studs etc etc are all fine. But you have to go with what your shops tells you as they have to stand by their work. But personally....I wouldnt be wasting my money on all that fluff. Std engines well serviced and tuned are perfectly reliable...especially if you keep revs under 7,000rpm and boost under 18psi...lol which i dont Rather than studs yadda yadda a better oil pump would do more imo

.OH. Hope the pit stop was because you were on a promise from a grid girl!

lol...i am watching you live on Foxsports...wind the bloody boost up will yah! Commentator is saying GTR

So Nissans Mardenborough just about had the worst experience anyone could ever dream. Poor kid was due to race at le Mans with but after a big crash at the Ring yesterday at Flugplatz his car jumped the fence and killed a spectator