bigmikespec

BUMP!!!!!

You have to pull the subframe out. No I do not think so, otherwise you can always buy OEM but you are up for over $140ea.

With the Unique option you do not get the inner steel section of the bush you have to re-use the old ones. I f**ked mine up trying to get them out, so getting new ones machined up. Have not got to the installation part, but it took me a whole weekend to get the subframe bushes and the diff bushes out the subframe (having regular breaks to regain my sanity). 2-3hrs? Not a chance.

Duncan is right! However, if you want to do it yourself, this is how I did it: -it is a diff out job, yes -drill out the rubber -use a screwdriver and carefully fold in the flange on the bush -spray with a s**tload of crc and leave it to penetrate -work them out with a hammer and screwdriver It is not pretty, fun or quick. I thought the neighbours were going to call the cops as I was screaming f'n c's all weekend! I am going to go with the Unique Autosports bushes and make up some new inner sleeves out of stainless steel. Mike

I am enjoying this... it is like Gary is giving a bunch of apes a hammer and watching them slowly figure out what it does.

Bump guys, want these parts gone...

PM sent

Champion! Thanks mate.

Found this in the course of a bit of research into Mitsubishi (Trust) turbos might be a re-post but hope it is helpful to some: http://www.evocoupe.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4234 Does anyone know if the Trust turbo (i.e. T78, T88) turbine housings are "completely" divided, or are they just divided at the entry (like the HKS T04Z I believe). Mike

He is using it as an example, we know "your mates RX3" does 11000rpm measured incorrectly at the eccentric shaft.

Far out Gary, try explain it in a cartoon or something, maybe more people will undertand that?

Bump!

I understand exactly what you are saying. However, for a single piston stroke there is one revolution of the crank. And with the rotary for one complete revolution of the rotor three rotations of the eccentric shaft. Measure piston speed? Come on, that is irrelevant. I know what I just did was compare rotary and piston but I have broad shoulders

It is not selectable but it is a ratio nonetheless hence a bit misleading when people say... "oh man a 13b can do 13000rpm!!!!" with little knowledge as to how.

This is pretty interested for those wanting to learn and understand what Gary is trying to explain with regard to the rotation of the rotors and the eccentric shaft. One complete rotation of the rotor (one complete combustion cycle) relates to three rotations of the eccentric shaft. So where should you measure from? IMO it should be from the rotor; we don't measure RPM in a piston engine from the gearbox and that is essentially what is being done in a rotary engine. Also, it is pretty easy to understand that if you take into account the volume of each face, one complete cycle from two rotors... 3.9L. I think it is just difficult for passionate rotary engine fans to accept the above which is understandable, no GTR fan wants to hear about the oil issues with RB26's. Personally I like both piston and rotary engines for what they are... Mike ...more boobs please!!!!!

^^^case in point^^^ E. The rotor Fanboiz Are the rudest bunch of chuntz to ever grace these boards. Plain and steadfast arguments have been proffered by the piston brigade only to be met by personal attacks from the egg beater crowd. Some of them have offerred damn fine arguments in favor of the rotor but let their credibility fly out the window With their personal remarks. Bring it on rotor heads but dont sully a damn good debate by attacking the man rather than the argument.

One hand is typing the other one is wacking myself off because I have a degree in Mech. Eng... and I am thinking about tits! Great info though besides the personal swipes. Logically what Gary says is entirely correct... 3.9L

New prices in bold for items below: GTR AFM's, taken off my GTR as I went with a ecu using MAP sensors... ready to plug in if your current ones are doing funny things! - $200 (pair) Tuned ECU, specifically a tuned standard R33 GTR computer, made 187kW (11psi) at all four wheels with no dramas (dyno sheets to prove if you like), good upgrade over the standard ECU! (Appears as if it is it tuned for up to 17psi by D. TECH SQ). - $200 --- now $150 Swaybars (standard) off an R33 GTR, front and rear! - $150 (pair) --- now $120 Air-con "kit" taken off my GTR, includes everything in the engine bay; compressor/condensor/fan etc. If you have an N1 GTR, summer is coming up so get in quick! - $200 Active-LSD off Vspec GTR that has done 85000kms, works great but not needed, only locks up when you need it too! - $500 (including lines to ATESSA pump) --- now $450 Bridgestone Potenza RE050 in 245/45/17, set of four, two are in great condition with plenty of meat left however the other two are not so good. - $400 (for all four, rims not included) --- now $350 Need this stuff gone!!!! Mike

Chris, I have been thinking a similar thing, the A-LSD uses the Atessa pump to lock the diff. I am pretty sure it would use a PWM signal, I could set that up with my Vipec V88 as could you with your M800 (I would assume). The only thing is, when do you lock it? You would have to work out when you want it locked, it might get complicated quickly. You would need some sensors (whether it be a similar set up to a GTR or something along the lines) to feed information into the ECU to "tell" it to lock. Also, I have a R33 GTR Vspec A-LSD for sale it has better ratios than the R34. Good luck, Mike

PM sent mate! All items still available... Mike

Air-con parts sold pending payment! Thanks for the interest. All other parts still available!

PM's replied.

Auto air? I am not sure mate, I have an "auto" button on my climate control unit if that is what he means. It should fit but I can not say 100%, I will have a look for part numbers tonight and get back to you. Mike

PM's replied!