They are not available from an australian distributor yet as garrett australia dont recieve them till January 2011 as far as my knowledge goes.
They are available from US dealers (ATP turbo and realstreetperformance are just 2 that we have found so far)
well a friend of mine blew his gt3082 recently, his housings are still ok but thanks for the offer!
im imagining a gtx3076 would go wicked on an sr20det
Found this interesting bit of text on a website selling these turbos.
"This is the new Billet version of the previous Garrett GT3076R model.This Dual Ball Bearing turbo has an Oil & Water Cooled center cartridge. This turbocharger is on track to replaced the older GT3582R model as the most popular mid sized turbo on the market. The original GT3076R paved the way for many performance enthusiasts earning its place as the best all around turbo out there for most peoples needs. The new GTX3076R makes more power, spools faster, and is all around better than the GT3076R."
http://realstreetperformance.com/store/57m...turbo-2009.html
pulling out a thermostat will cause ur engine to reach full operating temp a lot later meaning more wear and tear. it will not cause it to over heat
put a thermostat back in, if its overheating with a new thermostat in there you have a problem
some cars with slightly dirty coolant systems do that, dont worry about it, just make sure all the air locks are bled out and the coolant isnt leaking from anywhere that u worked on
http://www.frsport.com/How-To-Set-Crank-An...ngine_t_25.html
Basically, the rocker cover has to be off
bring the engine at TDC
insert the cas as per this pic
http://www.s-chassis.com/resources/wiki/im...S_Alignment.jpg
thats it.. very simple
well it adds up if your saying your injectors are near maxing out running on 14.5psi but you should be making far more than 208awkw at that boost
im running that exact same boost on -7 turbos (stock size), car is making 260-270awkw and my stock injectors are at 90% tops
his dyno must be just reading really low, f**k.. 60-70kw lower? thats redicilous
Block off everything on the stock boost solenoid. Unplugging it might bring up an error code though so I wont tell you to unplug it, you can experiment with that lol.
If you have 1 side of the ebc solenoid hooked up to the actuator thats fine. Other side needs a pressure source, this can be off the compressor housing (u dont have one so pass...) you should have a nipple comming off an intercooler pipe or worst case get a T piece and T off the big vacuum line that goes to ur carbon canister and make that go straight to the solenoid on the port that requres a pressure source. There should be a pressure source somewhere in that area though.
Heres a pic of a greddy profec b spec 2 install diagram, will be same principle.
yeah had a problem like this too, the internal drive of the CAS was rooted, sometimes worked, sometimes didnt.
new cas, problem solved, try sumone elses cas before you buy another one though
bigger dumps wont help spool up time, it will increase flow and reduce back pressure meaning more lag but more power/kick
once ive converted my gtr to single then ill be able to comment from experience but for now i cant
holy crap 190? didnt know u could get a reading that high LOL most ive had is in the 80's. 100+ must be the ping that u can actually hear as a rattle??