KiwiRS4T

I have Tein "S" tech Front Tein F-SIN78-101311-HCC Rear Tein R-SIN79-010382-HCC Shocks are labelled "Nismo" but are actually made by Bilstein Front Nismo 56110-RSC45 ENP Rear Nismo 53210-RSC 45 ENP If you have 245 tyres (narrower than mine!) you only need 8 or 8.5in rims - the extra width won't be helping but just get in the way.

How wide are your rims? Excessively wide rims will not help your roadholding. I have 17 x 9 (with 255 40 17 tyres) and use 15mm spacers to clear the shocks and have pushed out the guards a little. My shocks are Bilsteins with Tein Springs which are about 20% harder than stock. My ride height is 340 front and 330 rear. You can use BC coilovers. If your rims are getting in the way of some good suspension change them. My rear sway bar is the BNR11XX 24mm. When I track my car I have 17 x 8.5in rims with slicks.

Get hypergear to rebuild yours

Don't know about Victoria but in NZ the minimum clearance (without a cert) is 100mm to any solid part of the body or chassis and this excludes things like skirts or exhaust. Have you checked the regs for Victoria?

Read the post above

^^^like he said just weld to the turbo - better than elsewhere on the manifold.

Looks like a good buy if that mileage is genuine. Pity I can't sell you my sunroofs as I have two and would prefer none!

Get a properly made/attached tow bar from someone who knows what they are doing.

Set of new plugs -coils if necessary - check for boost leaks. Unless you are upgrading your injectors consider getting them cleaned and flow tested.

I wouldn't join the head "oil drain" to the sump. I don't have one and my opinion of them has hardened from being not much use to being a negative factor. My restrictors just tapped down on top of the existing ones.

Here's a thread if you want to weld up your own: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/319585-subframe-modifications-for-your-track-car/?hl=raising%20subframe

Nope just use what you have,

Yep get another wagon. Cefiros are smaller, lighter and should be more economical but not so good in a smash. There are plenty of RS4s for sale and even M35s are getting cheap now. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/stagea/auction-570924576.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/stagea/auction-574238798.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/stagea/auction-573529677.htm

Getting your old turbo beeefed up has the advantage that it will just bolt straight in. If you have the time you cold post it to Hypergear or there must be local rebuilders although as above Stao from Hypergear has done some great development work. If you want a brand new turbo the Garrett GT3076 could get you 300kw if done right.

Took the engine out to put smaller restrictors in and at the same time took sump off and drilled and tapped two holes inlet side as high as possible for the breathers. If I were you I would use the line you have going to the head and run it to a catch can instead. Those head "drains" are at best useless and at worst part of the problem.

Those compressions are fine - not ideal but you could get another 200,000 out of it so don't go pulling it down unnecessarily.

On my RB30 I run 2 x 1.0mm restrictors. The back of the head drain (I don't have one) does stuff all except perhaps pressurise the cam covers making things worse. I have two lines from the sump as the RB30 seems to whip up a storm in the sump. one line goes to the top of a catch can and the other to the bottom (acts as an oil return). I now get no oil out of the cam covers. I used to have the catch can venting to atmosphere but would get oil mist over the engine bay so now I vent the catch can to a second catch can (a proper oil/air seperator would be ideal) and vent that to my turbo inlet.

^^^as above. I have plumbed mine into the intake. If you vent to atmosphere 1. its probably illegal 2 you can get undesirable smells wafting into the cabin 3 you may get oil mist making a mess of your engine bay.

Nismo filter is allegedly highly efficient although guys here with relocation kits use a variety of filters including a giant aircraft engine filter! But if you change the oil and filter regularly the stock item should suffice. Re the mess - relocation kit is one solution but in my case I don't really have room to put it anywhere else. Put rags under the filter and when you have loosened the fliter put a plastic bag over it before you take it right off (and try to keep it the right way up as you lift it).

R34 is shorter

Now offering one free restrictor with any crank collar and the second for only $5

I have VCT stock cams hydraulic lifters and 2 x 1.0mm restrictors - also two sump vents - one to top of catch can and one from bottom as a return (will put a non return valve in the bottom one to make sure it doesn't also fill the catch can). With this setup on the track there is now nothing spewing out. I am of the opinion that the so-called head drain is not only not draining but possibly even a cause of the problem. I don't have one.

I'm keen for you to try them as I am planning on getting some this year!

Can you post up the pics please?

A suspension shop?