KiwiRS4T

Look for some shorter studs or cut them shorter with a hacksaw ($10)

OK I have what I believe to be an RB30 dipstick. It has the Nissan logo and 42LO1 stamped on it. From the tip to the beginning of the plastic bit is326mm to the bit of the plastic that hits the tube 352mm to the top of the crosshatched area 35mm to the centre of the kink 50mm (the letter H is stamped between the top of thr cross hatched area and the kink.

They are topfeed. Do they not fit physically or electrically?

How did you get on? Might be cheaper to knock out the other three and get a cheap set of 4 of any knid.

Get the ID1000s (Bosch) they work well at low duty cycles as well. Forget the radiator Does the HKS exhaust come with a front pipe? You will need a 3in front pipe. Consider getting a Nistune board.

Datalogic is tuning and data logging software so an add on to the PFC. Here is a PFC http://www.trademe.c...n-449954201.htm but there is no reason why you can't buy a second hand one from Aus. If you are in NZ I would suggest your main options are (cheapest) Z32 ecu with Nistune post #123 http://www.skylinesd...?t=64289&page=5 or also cheap: megasquirt but you really need to be a computer geek to run one of these although this guy will set them up for you: http://www.trademe.c...n-451169362.htm Power FC Link HKS F-Con (good support in Auckland and Wellington). You can see from my sig that I have a G4 Link which is made in ChCh and still developed and supported by the factory. Purchase, installation and tuning came to about $3500.

I bought my S1 RS4T for $4500. I have spent about $15,000 (probably more) on it over three years. I would be hard put to get $10k for it so I hope to never sell it. Try to keep your car Brendan but if you have to sell you're probably better to sell off as many aftermarket parts as possible.

Aftermarket ecu from Apexi

I am using a Link G4 with no O2 sensor. Surely you need some kind of aftermarket ecu? R32 ecu nistuned at least so a stock O2 sensor.

Spend 5 minutes reading the thread - all the answers are there.

With the parts you have fitted you should be making 240awkw at least. I made that with my old S1 with a GTST GCG highflowed turbo on 1 bar and still auto trans. You have a Neo - should easily do 240awkw with stock injectors. Since you have top feed injectors you could get ID1000 injectors which have great feedback fom users. The prices on your list look fine. What I don't see is a full 3in exhaust? Knocking the guts out of your new cat seems a waste and can make the exhaust sound tinny. I bought a 100 cell metal cat from Venom. The other thing I don't see on your list is a new, grunty intank fuel pump - good insurance against failure and also to provide for your 280awkw! New injectors a GT3076 and a really good tune should see you there ! And look out for a GTR box - its a fairly straightforward swap.

Or if you want to try it out you can just do this (I can confirm that it works on S1 as well as S2): Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, whiteplug). In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket. Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. You need to do this every time you start the car. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go. Andif you plan to do this a lot you can put a switch in somewhere.

My understanding of the purpose of the bov is to relieve stress on the turbo. When you shut the throttle the turbo is still spinning at thousands of rpm and pushing air into a pipe the far end of which has been closed. I would guess that is why Garrett promote putting the bov as close as possible to the turbo.

Ok well since the loss attributed to the awd is a fixed number ( say15kw ) and not a percentage then the more power you have the less of a factor it becomes.

Yes your car is untunable. Read up "which ecu for my car?" have a look at the Nistune website (why do I need a Z32ecu?) and PFC v Link/Vipec Try and get a drive (or at least a ride) in some modified cars to see just what power level you really want. You might be able to avoid the mistakes made by people like me who buy stuff and then have to sell it and buy more stuff because their goals change! But as said above with decent supension/tyre/brake upgrades you can actually drive faster with the same power.

My fabricator put the bov near the ffp and it vents to atmosphere ( I have a G4 Link with a MAP sensor). I hate the sound. I plan to relocate it to the other side (hot side) of the intercooler so I can plumb it in. I will need a long vacuum line so may make up a hard line. No nearer the T/B is not better. Garrett actually say as close as possible to the turbo. I am sure there will be a fluid dynamic engineer or suchlike who can correct me but my take is that bovs are not about flow but about pressure relief and so it doesn't matter where it is. Some manufacturers put them on the intercooler itself.

Yes the awd soaks up a few kw. In normal driving its not much as 95% of the effort goes to the rear wheels and 5% to the front. For most people the small loss of kw is a small price to pay for the additional grip which offers better acceleration. Even a bog standard RB26 can spin the rears if in 2wd. If you want to improve your 100 to 200 km/hr time you would be better to wind up the boost a little and get a good tune with an aftermarket ecu. The answer to your question is... there is nothing to be gained.

OK well the Bilsteins would be an improvement but you would need to check that they are interchangeable- the awd supension could be different. A Bilstein dealer could possibly adapt them if necessary.

I would have thought doing up the GTS-4 would have been the go. What have you bought now?

No mine is definitely welded to the turbo housing as per my specs - I guess a lot of people don't want that because it makes it harder to change the turbos or housings.

http://www.fabulous.co.jp/contact/

Yes removing the front driveshaft but why would you want to when you have just spent a fortune ( it won't be cheap) making your car awd?

Whatever you use for brake fluid. Top quality stuff is not expensive e.g. Motul RBF600. Check in front of the clutch pedal and on the firewall sto see if the m/c is leaking. May need new seals. But lack of hydraulics shouldn't cause the clutch to slip - rather the opposite - hard to get into gear without graunching.

Good suspension mod would be to get rid of the "stretched" tyres and get some proper ones (255s). BTW there is another section for build threads

If you're just worried about breaking axles I have a 32GTR diff and 6 x 1 axles in my Stagea with the stock subframe. The abs sensors were changed over and there was a bit of stuffing round to mount the attessa pump but if you don't have the Atessa then it should be easy for you.