KiwiRS4T

Keen to do the eflex thing but not as yet. So far as i can tell the genuine synthetics include (apart from Amsoil) Motul and Agip both of which are pretty widely available. I am getting my oil tested (Motul at present) and want to see if Agip will do the same job as its much cheaper ( as you will know also much cheaper than Amsoil). Agip do a 10W 60 racing oil which I think might be too heavy. They also do an "Ultra Syn" in 5W-30, 5W-40 (which I may try next) and a 5W-50

GTR transfer case is stronger than Stagea one - what's wrong with yours? They are fixable.

Some people make up a bracket for their climate control in the glove box.

When you say killed - has the element broken? Have you tried cleaning it - resoldering the joints -= checking the wires to the plug? Have you replaced it with other second hand ones or a new one?

Over here a good Neo is $1500 - $2500 and an RB26 is twice to three times that so supposing both are awd you would expect a seviceable Neo for $3k and for the same price an RB26 needing a rebuild.

It wouldn't fit the plug for a start as the Stagea is 3 row and the R32 2 row. It would work if piggybacked on to the S1 ecu (I had one on mine) but its a lot of work. In fact mine is floating around for sale (or was in the stagea for sale sectrion). Greddy e-manage would be simpler esp if you can find a suitable loom exetnder and adapter.

e.g. Proengines as per above - 364kw with standard t/b (can't edit my posts atm).

Use the stock one. Adapter is cheaper than changing everything else. Looking for 330 -350kw with mine. I believe they are good for more.

if anyone is considering piggybacking a Link (or a Vipec) into their M35 (not a cheap option) I just saw this throttle control device: http://www.linkecu.com/products/InstallationAccessories/OutputConditioners/e-throttle-module

I have 17 x 9 +30 with 20mm spacers on the front (see post 342 one page back). I have folded up the lip and pushed out a bit with a guard roller but it needs a bit more yet.

Like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/other/auction-433140454.htm probably also available on ebay

You can't change the rank but you can change where you have R33 to add RB25DET

It has been done. It is not simple. I can't search at the moment but try google.

Sadly the problems as described persist!!

Brand new tyres so no flat spots? Decent brand? All balanced? Wheel nuts all properly tightened? Tested your shocks? - push each side of your front down realy hard and let go - it should come up and stop dead. If it goes up and down again the shocks are stuffed.

If you got the cable as specified in the kit it should be fine but there are other cables which fit the plugs but are not the right spec and cause melt down as you have described. The excerpt i sent you seems to have lost the photos, possibly because the thread is now quite old but you should be able to identify the parts to be checked if you have a diagram. If you haven't, let me know and I will dig one up somehwere. I have thrown away the original instructions but still have the book some where and remember it warning me not to switch between maps on the fly. Hopefuly checking the values and orientation of the parts suggested will provide a solution!

And another couple of tips - make sure you have the exact correct cable to connect to the hand controller and DO NOT switch between maps with out turning the engine off. On my one I made sure of this by by-passing the switch so that I only had one map.

Just skimming back through the thread here's SK's suggestions: Hi guys, it is not impossible that is is a bad component, but (based on my experience) it is unlikely. Burnt resistors are a sign of excessive load (going through them), so I would work my way through the circuit diagram and check the components on either side of the resistor. Let's give it a go using the circuit diagram on page 141 of Performance Electronics for Cars; It's a 10ohm resistor that sits between diode 2 and and zener diode 2 in the power supply circuit comtrolled by reg 1. So I would be checking the polarity of D2, ZD2 and Reg 1 and the value of the 1000uf, 10uf and 1000nf capacitors. I have marked them with red dots on the cicuit layout below (page 137 of Performance Electronics for Cars);. I know someone has already suggested it, but the problem is in the power supply circuit, so the first thing I make ABSOLUTELY sure of is that the polarity of the power source is correct. Test it at least 3 ways, such as wire colour, multimeter voltage in and multimeter voltage out. The test voltages are shown on the circuit diagram above. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

What engine/coil packs?

Intake leak near the afm?

I put a set of GTT brakes on my S1. They don't stop any quicker but allow for more repeated use without fade - towing or track. Mintex pads helped for track but have now upgraded to D2s.

^^^ as above - but if you've got money to burn a 6boost manifold would be better value than the Nismo FPR, the Radiator, the head gasket, cams, or BOV

How does the Deatschwerks compare in size with the 044? My Bosch works fine but the surge tank is in the back of my Stagea and even with a well insulated steel box over it its still quite noisy. Wonder if the Deatschwerks would fit in the same space (o/a length is the most important).

Tuners round here all want a better fuel pump once you're getting up to 300kw + and I have relegated my Walbro to a lift pump and have a 044 pumping from my surge tank but to be fair I just had a look through the RB25 upgrade thread and there are quite a few people making 300kw with a Walbro. For the OP I would make sure fuel pressure and afrs are ok on the dyno but would seriously consider a more grunty in-tank pump - the Deatschwerks looks like it will flow enough or a Nismo., Denso etc. If you are going to the track a lot I would get a surge tank. When you are getting stuck in on the track it is amazing how quickly you can empty your tank, Either that or keep an eagle eye on your fuel levels and keep topping it up. Are surge tanks definitely illegal where youe are? There is no reason for the cops to be looking in your boot anyway.

Sorry can't edit my posts atm - the above has only o rings no collars