boostn0199

Im going to the Mount Waverely caltex on blackburn road. Yeah the car feels great its a different car all together Ill never go back to pulp. Nah Dont think Ill push the car anymore my goal always has been if I get it to 300kw ill stop as the bottom end is stock and the car is used for drifting which is more than enough power and some street cruising to.

I got the jjr return style cooler and im pushing 307kw and its not acting as a restriction but I would imagine the bar and plate core will be the same quality just different pipe configuration.

Check the rb25 dyno results thread mines one of the last ones there with the dyno sheet. I have cams fitted so yes I got the low mid range punch power band is unreal im running e85 though.

Which ball joints front or rear? Have you rang nissan to see how much they want?

307kw with a jjr return flow no sign of any restrictions or problems they are one of the few that are cheaper but still perform well.

Well no you cant because you have to remove the rear plastic cover to remove that you have to remove the cam gears. Ill add my tips aswell as I just did my springs and I used the compressed air method but eventually one of the valves dropped because the compressed air caused the crank to spin for a sec lost pressure and down went the valve. So if your going to use the compressed method make sure you have someone holding the crank or put the ratchet against the body so it cant rotate. Or you can just do the string method. In regards to lining everything up what I recomend and alot of other people do when you have everthing at TDC rotate the crank a little bit backwards in order to move piston 1 and 6 from TDC so then theres no need to worry if the cams arent in exactly right or rotate during when you tighten them up. Then when youve reinstalled the cams just set the cams to the correct postion then rotate the crank forward back to tdc.

Im running bcp7es 0.8gap on 17psi no missing and so far starts first crank cold start but I'll have to wait to winter to truly see it.

96 r33 gtst s2 Stock bottom end Hypergear tr43i turbo 0.63 rear nismo 555 injecors z32 afm 3.5inch kakimato exhaust tomei poncams tomei exhaust cam gear tomei valve springs tomei head gasket nismo fuel pump jjr intercooler 307.2 kw @ 17psi full boost at 4200rpm on caltex e85

Nismo 555 you will get away with but considering 740 arent that much more its better to go them since you might go e85 and since you have a built motor might want to push more later.

Just keep it all 3 inch if you want the noise down, dont go less then 3 inch.

ahahahahah

There oil cooled not watercooled, other way around and also the kkr430 are nothing special they are a very average turbo that are quite laggy thats why they are cheap but when you compare them to hypergear as are about the same price there is no comparison. You will make abit of power just its not very efficient as the garetts and other jap brands.

Itll be fine 10psi is not going to kill it even with the stock smic

Yeah its 2.5inch. Look for the power your running its not a problem I ran 270kw with the restrictor its only if your car has been tuned with a exhaust without restrictor then you chuck this one on is where it makes problems. If your running stock ecu you have no problem with it just if you ever do go afermarket ecu get it tuned with this exhuast on it and youll have no problems.

The powerfc doesnt reset it self no matter if you disconnect the battery. Either your using different petrol or maybe even the hotter weather conditions have effected it. But yeah Id say best thing would be take it to the tuner and hell quickly chuck it on the dyno and fix it up.

Speak to whoever tuned your car and get them to have a look at it will probably just need to touch it up abit. If you havent tuned your car and are complaining about knock form just sticking the pre tuned power fc well theres your problem.

Man thats the silencer in there I told you, its hard to tell. First of all when you dont have a silencer you will see that muffler material around it which yours doesnt have and its a 4 inch all the way through muffler so youll be able to stick your hand in the muffler. Ive marked in red where its been welded in, if you get a exhust air grinder you can just fit it in there and start grinding away and itll come out. As you can see in my pics ive shown where I grinded the weld off and last pic of the restrictor out and look in the cannon now how big it is I can stick my fist in it.

Yeah I would recomend winding it back abit from top dead centre that way theres no chance of the valves hitting cylinder 1 or 6 as they can be abit tricky to keep straight when putting the first few cam brackets on. Doing the springs would be a good idea to save you from having to open it up again.

LMAOOOOOOO did he say this I didnt see it. There was another guy with a rb20 a while ago that had 215kw and was complaining about wheel spin through all 5 gears. Probably just clutch slipping for 5 gears lol.

Mine was brand new. Ive seen a few of them and all have it. Like I said its not an obvious restrictor its made to look part of the muffler I couldnt tell at first. If any of you can be bothered take a pic of yours and Id be interested to see.

I find that hard to believe, its not a case of lets make half the regu 06 exhuasts with restrictors and the other half without them there not obvious it looks like its meant to be there, Id be willing to put money on that its there but anyway aslong as your not running big power its not going to matter.

If you got the regu06 just wasted your money, go look in the rear cannon and youll see the 2 inch reducer restrictor in there to keep it quiet I made same mistake I put it on caused a restriction engine pinging though I did remove the restrictor after a lot of f**king around but yeah its not quiet anymore.

Well that turbo would be prety close to being maxed out so its no matter what you do youll be struggling to go over with a 2535. At the end of the day you can have a full built motor with everthing you could possibly want on it and what would happen if you put a stock turbo? You wont make power.

Theres two type of car people, one are the ones that love moding the car themselves gaining experience and learning from the work they do themselves and then the satisfaction of driving it with good results knowing you build it then there are the 2nd type who just care about driving it and want the car to be fast and couldnt care less who did the work as long as it works. So if your the first type then definately mod it yourself and have fun but if you the 2nd type then as others said go buy one thats ready. I myself would have no enjoyment in just buying 1000hp car and driving I love the fact that I have build my car over 3 years on my own and gone throw the highs and lows but in the end when it all comes together and runs its the best feeling knowing you worked through it and finally got there so yeah you dont really care about the money you spend aslong as you got it your happy to spend on the car.

Cars all done looks like im in, dying for a boost session.