djr81

Are they worth buying: emphatically YES. It may well be one of the best cars you will ever own. Are they reliable: Yes - to a point. The more power you screw out of them the more fragile they become. One with 300rwhp or less is going to be pretty much bullet proof as long as it is not worn out. Easy to maintain: Yes - no worse than most other high performance cars. Cost of running: Not cheap, but it largely depends on how you drive it. If you hammer it you will use huge amounts of fuel, hurt the brakes/tyres etc etc. Best advise (IMHO) is to buy a good one, not a cheap one. I look for a car (I have bought three) that is in good condition rather than one that has a heap of add ons. The latter are good, but don't do you any good if the basic car is not up to scratch. Have a search - you will find heap of tips about things to look for. But generally if it is well looked after, owned by someone who cared about it & has no obvious flaws you are probably onto a winner. Figure out what you want to do with it (eg daily driver, track car, drag car, bling special, whatever) & search accordingly.

Probably best not to bother. Just go and buy a Turbosmart adjustable bleed valve which goes in place of the standard one. Costs <$100 & you can set whatever boost pressure you like in the range of 7psi to about 14 psi.

Yeah, the lower viscosity will give you a slightly lower pumping loss on you motor & make life a bit easier for the oil pump. Don't worry about the kms - if you are at the point of having too much blow by or rattles or whatever then no oil, no matter how good will help. You can't save a sick engine with an expensive oil. If the motor is still ok then that is all good.

I pretty much always use Castrol, in a 10W60 - but mostly because I haven't yet installed the oil cooler I bought. The oil gets quite hot at he track, so the 60 high temp viscosity rating makes it attractive. All else being equal, a 5W50 grade is probably a little better matched to the motor. Have nothing -ve to say about Castrol oils. The thing you need to remember is the rating of the oil. When the GT-R was released, ie late eighties the oil grade was something like SF or SG or thereabouts. Now it is SM or similar. Each change from SF to SG and so on is a quantifiable gain in the protective qualities of the oil. So just about any current oil will be markedly better than what was put in the engine when it was released.

If you care about your cooler then mesh it. If you want to show the world your bling cooler, then leave it off. Personally for my 10 cents worth - go with the mesh.

You need to differentiate between bodgy operators adding ethanol/toluene and or any other rubbish to the fuel to avoid excise & the proper stuff. The legit stuff is good but you ned to be sure that your tune is ok with it.

Does anyone know where these can be bought in WA?

Late reply, but I don't really want to let this go through to the wicket keeper. You may have not differentiated between the two import companies (Imports101 & Prestige) but I do - simply because I have used both of them & Imports101 stood by their guarantee when the delivered car differed from the description provided by the Japanese supplier. It wasn't a problem of their making, but they fixed it... Imports101 is both a broker & the compliance shop - hence your distinction between the two is not always necessary. The advantage of this arrangement (not uncommon) is that it provides a link between the purchase of the vehicle & compliance of the same. If your broker & your compliance shop are different & you strike problems it is easy to get stuck in the middle & out of pocket. If they are one and the same & offer a service guarantee you should not have a problem. I made the distinction because in my opinion having the broker and the compliance shop as one greatly reduces the risk of something going wrong. My other point stands. I could make the arrangements for customs via a customs broker, transport, etc etc etc, but to do so means time off work & a heap of travel. I have done this before & I much prefer to allow others to do the work for me. Lastly, under the previous scheme it was quite common for compliance shops to refuse to do compliance work on cars they did not import themselves. So you may well save $1000 on brokerage fess, but that doesn't help much if no one will comply the car for you. My facts are straight.

There was a write up in either Zoom or HPI about the fuel in the last few issues. From what I can remember there is a difference in the density of the fuel, ie the ethanol blend sg is lower. For this reason alone I would be careful in using the stuff as it may change your AFR's to the extent of damaging your motor. Having said that - the ethanol is a very useful additive. It raises the octane number of the fuel & adds oxugen to it. Hence (as the article showed) when properly tuned for this fuel you can get a useful gain in hp. Bottom line - like most things in life - used properly it is a good thing.

Danny (Imports101) does a very good job aswell. I can recommend him. There is also a third option - depending on what type of Skyline/Stagea you want - you can easily find them locally. If it something like an R33 GTS-T you will find heaps of them about with the added bonus of being able to drive them & not having to wait for auctions/shipping/customs/compliancing/registration etc etc etc.

I have a couple of Kuhmo Ecsta's in 255/40/17 with 5mm + tread left.

At the risk of asking a stupid question (There are no stupid questions, only stupid people ) why do you want to fit up two feeds to the fuel rail? When you use pumps in parallel (other than positive displacement pumps) you get a very small gain in flow for a huge gain in cost/power consumption etc. Mostly fuel setup are as in the photo - with two pumps picking up from the tank & pumping to another small tank which is then always full. The third pump picks up from there & keeps the fuel rail pressurisedl at all times.

The Power FC has a bit of a reputation for not adequately compensating for the different ambient temps & engine temps of the engine under load. You may well find that it is almost impossible to isolate the cell & the circumstances without the data logit software. The best method I have found is to run with the graphing option & graph the knock & rpm on the same screen. A spike in the knock sensor will show on the graph is you may be able to trace the cell number - or atleast your passenger should be able to.

In my humble opinion oil filters are much of a muchness. Have a look at the attachments...

Steve, Not sure, but the following may be worth a try. Directly behind the small grill in the facia panel just to the right of the gear stick is the inside air temp sensor. When this fails the heater is switched to full on. Hence all the valves in the internal HX are open & you can get fluid through it. So you can either disconnect it or just turn the heater on - either way whould clear the heater of the old fluid.

Thanks mate, that's champion. Next step: off down to the local Nissan dealer for some of their world famous friendly service & reasonable pricing. Is it customary to bring your own pineapple?

Think you mis-read it mate, the number is 310253

BNR310253 is the build number - it is a 94.

I need a bit of help with tracking down the part number for the following: It is the bit of trim that sits on top of the drivers door adjacent to the window on the R32 Gt-R. See the attached photo. If anyone could help me out with a part number I would be most grateful.

Absolutely. I didn't want to go to an eighteens for a couple of reasons: 1. I actually quite like the 17" rims I already have. 2. R compound tyres in 18" are, for me, just too expensive. May have to talk to Howard - just hope I get him on a good day - he can be a little um, curt when the shop is busy.

I have the DBA 4000 series rotors which had the thermographic paint on the rotors. I say had because all three colours have flashed off. Funny you should mention the 8 pot Indycar Brembo's. One of the few Gt-R's over this way with an upgrade is running them. A lap of Wanneroo (68 seconds for me at the moment) has three big stops. The one you mentioned is the first and is from 165km/h to 100km/h before CAT corner. Unfortunately it is one 10 or 15 seconds after the stop at the end of the main straight from 188 to 100km/h. Into Kolb (Great corner) is from about 170 down to 110 or so. Plenty opportunity to get some serious heat into the rotors. Here is one I prepared earlier - notice the build up of carbon in the grooves & also the white thermographic paint on the rotor edge.

Higher viscosity oil will give a higher oil pressure. Usually old black oil (CHANGE IT!) is more viscous that the new stuff. You may be suffering from the ubiquitous Skyline blight - that of a stuffed oil pressure sender unit. Do a search & you should find boundless posts on the subject.

I seem to remember he entered one of them in the Targa Tassie events in 1993 or there abouts. Can't remember who drove it other than the fact that kevin Bartlett had some involvement...

Good point. Can you confirm what the piston volumes are for the front & rears?