The Bogan

Do the other clutches come with a new lightened flywheel, release (thrust) bearing and flywheel bolts. The NISMO Super Coppermix does. copypasta http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/clutch/sctwin.html

Also as you can see, when I click on the MLR thingie on the top right it just turns white and nothing happens. Thanks, Mark

XP mate, thanks for the help. Mark

Um, you want me to shit on the computer screen ?? OK, Ill do it now but Im not sure if that will help. Seriously, I have no idea what your on about, me no speaky computer

Inter-club events maybe, might help to knock the costs down a bit. My 2 cents is: Timed track day, discounted, members only, once a year, run a comp, give prizes like shirts or hats. group 1 unrego race cars group 2 rego 4wd Turbo group 3 rego RWD Turbo group 4 rego NA Texi (yes as yet I havent made one with a car yet) Motakhana (ON GRASS) Drags (if WSID cost to much to hire then lets do a unofficial member attack on a wendsday night, the benifit of this is if it rains we pay for nothing and organise another night) Servicing days (get together for a BBQ and oil change, bleed brakes, minor maintenance type of stuff, and a Beer or a Scotch) At some of these events we could have a swap meet to get rid of unwanted parts or pick up some bits and peices.

I tried to fit it by the screen resolution thingie but it seems to just make things worse. It started after I clicked some link in the wasteland the other day. It seems to work fine on some sites and not others. Remember guys, I know f all abouts the way of the computars so please dumb it down for me. Thanks, Mark

Whats the car ? I use to fill my R33 RB25 about 10mm above the hatching on the dip stick for track days.

1.) Check that the oil level is at the Max mark on the dip-stick 2.) Coolant – ensure the overflow/reservoir is full 3.) Brake Fluid – bleed brakes and ensure the fluid is at the Max marking in the reservoir 4.) Clutch Fluid – ensure the fluid is at the Max marking in the reservoir 5.) Check that all pipe-work is secure and no hoses are becoming loose 6.) Check that your battery is secure and does not move 7.) Before closing the bonnet, make sure that all caps are on and secure 8.) Ensure you have suitable material left on your brake pads 9.) Ensure tyres are in good condition 10.) Check wheel nuts 11.)Keep a eye on your tyre pressure 12.) A fire extinguisher is a handy thing to have just in case 13.)Just take it easy 14.) Someone with a camera 15.)Be prepared to have a huge amount of fun

Ive got a standard R33 radiator in good condition you can have for a six pack of JW and cola...... If you are in NSW and want a standard radiator that is.

I've had a good look around for the rules and regs but alas I haven't found what I'm looking for, my boat is almost in the 11s now and I'm wondering what is needed to run quicker than a 12. So far I've worked out if I go faster than 12 I need to get a licence (which I can get on the day) to get me to 11 with out any other mods to the car. My question is that if I do get dome drag radials and manage to get into the 10s what would be needed to be compliant. The car is regoed and I want to keep it that way but I'm unsure if I fo get some drag radials for it and then manage a 10 will that be the last run for the car or what. The car is set up as a all rounder for street and track, is it feasible to also set it up for drags as well. At the moment my fastest run is 12.14 @ 130 mph on street tyres, the safety gear I currently have is a bolt in half cage to CAMS specs, fire extinguisher and a 4 point harness. Thanks for any info or links you can supply. Mark.

Wheel alignment ? How much camber do you have on the rear ? Stiff suspension, lots of camber/bad alignment and hard tyres could be causing this problem.

R33 GTSt 25/30 380ish Killerwasps 60ft 2.150 330 5.698 1/8 8.260 mph 99.77 1000 10.403 1/4 12.147 mph 130.38 Hankooks RS3 Good top end but I cannot seem to get off the line well due to wheel spin.

LOL,7:10ish after spinning up 1st, 2nd and part of 3rd I finally blew by the 4wd Porka. I really need to learn how to get the boat off the line. Im shit at this stage, but I am seeing more drag days in the forseeable future, come on 11.99999999999999999999999999999999

Best was a 12.14, MPH was 130 but traction issues getting of the line was hurting me bad, best 60 ft was 2.1 something. Had a ball anywwy, even got a red light once when I eased of the hand brake a bit in stage.

Nope, still waiting for some happy offset, happy price 16 x 9 rims to suit the boat. The 255/40 17 Hankook RS3,s should be a bit better than the 245/40 17 Dunlops Z1 Star Specs I used last time as they are a little bit wider (10mm LOL) and softer with a lot less camber. I want these please Mr post man.... http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+T%2FA+Drag+Radial+2&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=55R6GFTADR2&tab=Sizes

You need a US postal serviice that will send them, a guy from work has one, they send it to the US postal forwarding address which will then forward them on to here. It costs a bit to set it up but it still works out cheaper for most goods, Australian distributers are raping us blind. Ill post up the company he uses tomorrow.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+Neova+AD08&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=635WR8AD08&tab=Sizes Around $1500AUD a set delivered Shop Smart, Shop S Mart

Im having the need for some boosting, anyone else going, Ill be in the Silver boat, if you see me say hi. Ill race you for coffees (Disclaimer: this offer is only open for RWD registered cars on street tyres). White with one sugar please.

Leave approved today, SWEET.

Its the blantant stuff that erks me, his class states the car must be standard with only a few mods here and there, but he is up against cars that have the dash gutted, carbon bonnets, doors, boots, guards, wings, splitters, big boost and stuff. But I 100% agree that super lap should be the best of the best, why would I want to pay money for something I can see every weekend at a race track near me, I want stupid fast cars with every bell and whistle. They should have two groups, insanely fast and stupidly insanely fast. Im just pissed that I missed it because work thought it would be better for me to be living out in the range for a couple of weeks. FTA

Its like the other rules and regs Ive seen that say the car must be registered and have a engineers cert for any modifications to run in SVD, Ive never been asked to show a cert once. If the car is meant to be regoed it should at least look like it could pass a slip. Im only a occasional weekend warrior but it seems, at local super sprint events anyway, you pick the class you think you would be competetive in and go from there, Im only there for fun but I feel bad for the people running to the rules in their group whilst others blatently disregaurd the rules and enter their car in the wrong group. A friend has a reasonably standard WRX who plays by the rules but others in his class have cars that are so far away from that class its not funny but they are still entering the same class as him. He says its cool but you can tell that it guts him, at least he is cool in the knowledge that he is doing it right and the others are cheats.

Nice

It's more of a lifestyle change, but do go stupid on diets or supplements, people end up relying on them to much, just try to limit you carb intake a bit and keeep active and you'll be fine.

You needs some muscles, do more body weight exersizes. And drink more beer. ABS is for cars to stop the wheels locking up. Seriously though, Good work mate, Ive gone from 87 and feeling fat and shit to 79 and Im feeling much better.